Wizcrafts

You have two options for obtaining discontinued Singer parts. Buy a donor machine head of the same make and model that is complete, turns freely, and is affordable. Contact dealers who have been in business for at least 40 years, or longer and ask if they have any OEM parts that you need. They may have some unsold replacement parts, or remove them from a donor machine. One of our supporting advertisers is a long time dealer who has a lot of old Singer parts.

Make sure you stock up on needles in sizes 18, 19 and 20 for use with thread sizes 69 and 92. The #20 won't get as much use, but may come in handy if the leather is really tough, or is deflecting the needle.

The only time you would insert the bobbin so it feeds clockwise is if there is an anti-backlash spring under the bobbin. These are usually shaped like a star. The tension is reduced on a clockwise feeding bobbin, in a top loading basket. I personally feed all my bobbins against the direction of rotation because the back pressure keeps the thread firmly under the tension spring.

Yes. Both machines use standard walking foot needle systems 135x16 and 135x17.

Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines is a full fledged sewing machine dealership. They sell and service industrial sewing machines and have parts and accessories for sale. They don't sell online though. You have to call, email, or fill out the contact form to get part numbers and prices. This is how business was done in the needle trade before the Internet. Their toll free number is: 866-362-7397

Take a look at how the tread comes off the spool. If it is twisty, like a coil spring, you'll need to thread it in the reverse direction through two holes in the top thread guide post. I usually start at the top hole, wrap it counterclockwise and feed it out the bottom hole. this counteracts any twist and gives back pressure to keep the thread inside the top tension disks.

Are you holding back the starting 3 stitches?

I looked at a package of these big eye 135x17 needles and they are Schmetz SERV7. I bought them in sizes 18 and 19. The largest I found listed is only a #22, which is good for #138 bonded thread. I sew through leather tape with them and they don't clog or rat the thread like a standard 135x17.

I use all three brands. I have multiple sewing machines that all use System 135x16 and 135x17 needles. One of my main suppliers is @CowboyBobKovar, owner of Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. He sold me some Schmetz S point needles in System 134-35 that lay down an inline stitchline. I like them. They are ever so slightly shorter than the standard walking foot needles, but still work for me. If at all possible, try to buy titanium coated needles. The ones I have are from Organ and Gross Beckert. These needles go through leather tape and glue with fewer clogging issues. Interestingly, when it comes to round points, I have some Schmetz that have a special geometry in the eye that resists clogging even though it is just plain steel. I use them to sew embroidered patches onto Bikers' vests. Why? On account of leather point needles slice the thread along the edges, where the round pints just separate the threads and don't rat the edges. You can buy individual packs of System 135x16 and 135x17 on eBay.

The hook, shuttle, take-up system and tensioners are not built to properly tension #277 thread. It will get dragged down into the hook and jam the machine. That's the official stance. Now, you might try running a soft #277 on top, but no more than a soft 207 in the bobbin, using a #25 diamond point needle. You'll have to crank down the presser foot spring a lot to keep the leather from lifting as the needle ascends. Set the stitch length to about 6 to the inch. Increase the top tension and reduce the bobbin tension.Sew into 1/4 inch of leather that has been oiled to soften it and see if you can balance the top and bottom threads. Hold back the starting threads, hand crank the machine and see what happens! Let us know.

That is a very cryptic post! I'm trying to decipher the questions. The first question appears to be how can I convert my Juki LU-1508 top loader into a side loader like the Juki DNU-1541? (I filled in the missing prefixes) No, you can't do that. If you want a side loading machine, trade in your 1508 top loader for a 1541 side loader. It could be that there is an anti-backlash spring in the bobbin case, under the bobbin, that is pushing up too much, jamming the bobbin and adding way more tension than you actually set it to. If that isn't it, something else may interfering with the path the bobbin thread takes and is squeezing the thread. Or, the top thread may be getting jammed as it goes through the feed dog, gets picked off by the hook and wraps around the shuttle and bobbin. Remove the cover plate over the bobbin and watch the top thread as you slowly rotate the hand wheel with a piece of tough material, or leather under the feet. See if the top thread is loose, or tight as it goes around. If it snaps going around the bobbin case, the timing could be retarded. Advance the timing a bit and try again.

Kristina; As a guest you can only interact publicly with interested parties. You don''t have access to our private message or email system. On the other hand, if you were to become a member, you can use these systems to carry on business discussions privately.

Thread getting jammed in the hook is user error cured by holding back the starting thread. I would suggest holding back the starting threads for at least three stitches before letting go. Make sure that the top thread feeds through the hole or split in the inside foot and is pulled to the rear. . If the machine sewed perfectly at the previous location, everything that has gone wrong is simply new user - rookie mistakes we all made along the way. Place a drop of oil on inside the race where the shuttle revolves. In fact, put a few drops of sewing machine oil in every oil hole and on each moving part. Keep a cloth handy to wipe the drippings.

To reduce the walking height you have to move the lever coming out of the back so it is farther away from the shaft that moves the feet. I can't resolve the details in your photo, but that adjustment should be obvious. As you rotate the wheel, the arm will push and pull out the back and the shaft will oscillate to move the foot up and down. Loosen the screw, or nur, or wingnut and move the shaft away from the center line. You may be able to reduce the lift to 1/16 inch. But, there will still be some lift. A walking foot doesn't operate like a flat foot. What you described would be like a needle feed machine with a fixed presser foot and a needle that moves with the feed dog. It wouldn't have an inside foot like a walking foot machine has.

No, that's not what I meant. It looked to me like the front edge of the pedal is hard in contact with the floor. It needs to miss the floor in the off/idle position. Forget I ever mentioned it. It's an optical illusion. Set the angle where your ankle is comfortable. Just make sure it is adjusted so it lets the motor be completely off when the front is all the way down. If the leading edge actually hits the floor, the motor will be partially engaged when you want it off. That's what I was talking about. It should have the back end up so you don't stress your ankle.

The best needle and thread combination chart is on the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines website.

Make sure that the floor pedal isn't bottoming out hard against the floor in the idle position. The two rods with the coupler are used to adjust the idle position. Set it so there is a little gap above the floor in the off position. I have the same motor on my Singer 211G156 walking foot machine, and on my Techsew 2700. I like the rotary switch to set the top speed.

I don't recommend using #207 on this type of machine. It will probably cause the Ranko Valve to defribulate and implode into a gazillion pieces. At the very least, it will jam the hook.

Post a photo showing the motor and floor pedal. Every motor I've seen on an industrial sewing table has a bolt adjustment for raising or lowering the motor in its mount. There are usually locking nuts over and under the bracket the bolt feeds through. Set the motor so there is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection of the v-belt when the machine is upright in its operating position. Do try turning the hand wheel before tightening the belt. If it's hard to turn without the belt, something has gotten jammed up inside the machine. It could simply be a thread birds nest from not pulling the top thread out of the needle and the needle went down from the machine being moved around. If this happened, you'll have to pull all the thread out of the shuttle around the bobbin case before you try powering on the machine again. This birds nesting is caused by not holding onto the starting threads, especially the top needle thread. Industrial machines are fairly easy to jam up if the top thread gets pulled down and into the shuttle in the wrong manner. When moving or even tilting the head, pull the top thread out of the needle so it can't get jammed into the shuttle and bobbin case.

What a great reveal! Thanks for exploring and exposing this hidden issue. We have a member troubleshooting this very same problem in another thread. The diameters may be different on different motor makes and models and different pulleys from different suppliers. I guess it would be smart to have a package of thin shim material on hand when swapping out pulleys.

You haven't given us much to work with. For instance, what needle system is installed in the machine? Is the rib side facing due left and the scarf due right? Unless you are sewing very thick stuff, you can back off on the slack adjuster by raising the pointer higher up in its frame, reducing the slack. Yours is set to add a lot of extra thread when sewing through about 5/16 inch of leather. Next, the correct needle system for this machine is 332LLG, for round point, and 332LLLG for leather point. Mine measure about 2 1/8 inches, from stem to stern. As for changing the timing, first confirm if yours is set close to nominal timing. With the shuttle hook unit in place, remove the thread from the needle, open the needle plate sideways, then rotate the rear mounted hand wheel counterclockwise (towards you from the top) until the needle reaches bottom dead center. Slowly continue rotating the wheel until the needle rises and halts its motion. At this time, the tip of the hook should be close to and behind the needle, above the eye. As you rotate a little more, the hook should intersect the needle above the eye, then the needle should start back down as the hook continues to turn counterclockwise. It is a down-up-down jog during pickoff time. If the timing of the hook is too far advanced or retarded, the hook needs to be re-timed. Instructions will follow later. adler_30_-10-50-70.pdf Adler_30_Instruction_Manual.pdf

I use Leather Refinish, in 4 ounce jars, I get from OTB and made by Wood-N-Stuff. If I need a color OTB doesn't stock, I buy direct from Wood. The first step is to apply the preparer all over the area to be dyed/painted. let it dry, then spread the paint evenly and let it dry. Apply a second coat. Apply an acrylic top finish if desired. You should be good to go. I mainly use this refinish on leather jackets and vests. I've used it since roughly 2008.

This person is posting from Navi Mumbai (Sector 11), Maharashtra, India. How long do we need to put up with his/her bs?

I watched and listened to the video that confused our O.P. It was being narrated by a text to speech converter bot and a poor one at that. The specs are all wrong. I hope nobody else finds it, so I am NOT linking to it here. The entire video was produced as clickbait.

@Spicytacoman Can you send me a link to that video, in a private message? I want to hear for myself how it was worded that caused you to misunderstand that the stitch length is fixed, rather than adjustable. I promise you that the Cowboy machines all have adjustable stitch lengths, from very short, to whatever long. To be 100% accurate, there are some specialized sewing machines that have a fixed stitch length, but none of them are machines we typically use in general leather work, or discuss here.