Wizcrafts

Please retime the machine by retarding the hook a few degrees. If necessary, lower the needlebar to place the loop well into the pickup point, and above the eye. Make sure that you time the machine in forward and reverse, at the same stitch length. Timing is more critical for long stitches than short, when reverse is used. If this doesn't improve the situation, change the path of the top thread so it is more inline than otherwise. Are you using typical left twist bonded thread? Is it coming off the spool easily, or with binding?

I would like to expand on my answers to questions asked about my use of Venture Tape. This is very aggressive double sided tape. It tends to cling to the needles and gum them up. The sticky tape is not too hard to remove by running your fingers down the needle, but watch out for the sharp point at the bottom! The tape does not go away as easily as glue when you slick the edges. Try to stay far enough away from the edges to allow them to be sanded and slicked without hitting the tape. If possible, lay the tape to one side of the stitch line. Walking foot, triple feed machines have less trouble from the tape than say a patcher or straight stitch machine has. I use it on every zipper replacement job, on both sides. It was originally sold to tailor shops as zipper tape. Since then it has been improved to the point that it can hold belts and purses together until you sew them. I love this Venture Tape. When I have to secure large areas, I use either rubber glue (two coats), or spray adhesive. If I have to secure a narrow area that wants to move, I prefer Barge cement.

Yes, the check spring goes between the bottom disks and the take-up lever. It sounds like you need to reduce the travel of the check spring, so the loop forms sooner. Also, change the path the thread takes from the thread stand. Try going through a top hole, around the post, then out the bottom hole, on to the top tension disks. What brand, system and number needles are you using with what thread sizes? Too big of a needle will allow the loops to collapse sooner than otherwise.

Needle getting deflected by the layers of leather and heat from friction? Check spring adjustment (more or less travel)? This affects the size of the loop. Worn pickup point is a definite possible maybe. Does your Adler use spacer shims in the shuttle? If so, does the shim match the needle size? Is there any side slack in the shuttle, that coulds cause the point to miss the loop?

Probably. Place it well inside the edge to be sanded I have sewn through this tape on every machine I have available. It does gum up the needles.

No, I don't know that. All I know is that the supplier has this product labeled as "Leather Tape" by Venture Tape. It works like a charm.

I use Venture Tape, style TPE15, which we get from Wawak, a wholesale supplier for the cleaning and tailoring trade. The tape is sold in 1/4" and 1/2" widths in large rolls. You may need a business ID and tax number to order from them.

Oil the moving cranks attached to the presser bars. If there is a spring on top of the inside presser bar, tighten it down. Tighten the outer foot spring also. Check that the manual lift lever is not binding when you expect it to let go of the raised feet. Check the knee lever to see if it has over traveled and is forcing the feet to stay up.

You won't find any new 441 clones for what you can afford. But, if you look in the Market Place section of the forum, you may find some in the used sewing machines section. Other than that, contact our member dealers who advertise via banners and ask if any of them have a traded-in 441 with the arm length you require.

There ya go, Shooter. We just sold your Boss for ya!

@JimBob; Could be the old gal is worn out from too many stitches. Lift the presser feet and try moving them forward/backward. If there is appreciable motion it will cause reduced stitch length on thick material. If the presser bars are not loose, try reducing the pressure on the top spring (or springs if your machine has two). Eventually, you'll reach a point where you cannot reduce the pressure any further without causing the material to lift with the needle (skipped stitches). A tight bobbin spring will drag the material backwards, especially around corners. Back off the bobbin spring, then the top spring, to balance the position of the knots. If that machine is belt driven check the belt for excessive slack. Finally, check the feed dog for slop and raise it slightly.

I use double sided leather tape, in 1/2 inch width.

I have never heard that term used before. It sounds like a marketing ploy. Walking foot machines are driven by gears, cranks and cams and are made in several configurations, with compound (triple) feed being the best and most popular. No matter which particular system is used, the feet must move in time with the motion of the needle and feed dog. I have published an exhaustive article at the top of this forum, describing various industrial sewing machine drive systems, including some photos. Walking foot machines are covered in depth. I recommend that you read it if you are new to leather sewing machines.

Were you able to lower the inner presser bar, so the foot goes all the way down?

Dan; Why don't you put the Tippmann up for sale in the Market Place > Sewing machines > Used section? Add whatever you get for the Boss to the stash you are holding onto and get yourself a new CB3500? Whatever you get privately will be a lot more than a dealer will pay you for it.

Dan; If you want to sew ~20 ounces of veg-tan holster leather, with #277 thread, on a machine not costing over $1500, the CB2500 may be just what you need. It has a 10.5 inch arm. You can drive to Toledo and try one out. This machine is bottom driven by the feed dog, with either a flat or roller foot on top. It sews up to 7/16 inch, with #346 thread. The only hassle you face is smoothing out the tooth marks on the bottom. If this machine doesn't do what you want, the next step up is a CB3500, or Cobra Class 3. Both are triple feed machines, with smooth feed dogs and 9 inch arms. These machines are above your stated price range. While there are plenty of walking foot machines that can sew 20 ounces of leather, they cannot handle #277 thread. This thread requires a very heavy duty machine, with oversize take-up and tensioning parts and very large bobbins. Not even the Juki 1508 NH can sew with #277 thread. It's limit is #207. FYI: Industrial walking foot machines that use system 135x15 or 135x16, or 190LR needles are limited by the largest needle size commercially available: #25/200. This needle is best suited to sewing with #207 thread, top and bottom. The machine would need to have a large M, or LU bobbin to hold enough thread to sew a couple of belts. By contrast, the CB2500 uses system 328 needles, available from sizes 21 through 27, handling thread sizes 92 (loose fit) or 138 (tight fit), through 346.

You will not hurt the machine if you use #138 bonded nylon thread and hold back the threads (together) each time you start a new stitch line. Once the top and bottom thread have locked together, let go and guide the work. A #22 or #23 leather point needle produces the best result with #138 thread. The machine will have a knee lever under the table to raise the presser feet and remove the tension from the top thread. There will be an external bobbin winder at the rear, which engages with a push lever against the drive belt, then automatically releases when the bobbin is full. Load a bobbin with thread if there isn't one already loaded with the color you need. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case so the thread feeds against the direction of rotation. This keeps it under steady tension and counteracts the tendency to unload itself inside the case, when you stop and restart suddenly (as beginners tend to do). Bring some scrap leather to learn on and to balance the tensions to get the position of the knots inside the leather. The machine probably has a push down lever to put the machine into reverse, to lock the stitches (backtacking). If so, do one stitch forward, then two in reverse, then let go the lever and sew the rest of the way in forward. When you come to the tip, slow down and hand wheel around it. When you reach the other end of the belt. back stitch 3 stitches and stop. Lift the presser feet with the knee lever and pull the work out. Cut the threads close to the leather and you're good to go! If the machine has a clutch motor, you'll need to practice running the machine without thread. It will take a while to get the hang of feathering the clutch for slow speed sewing. Use your toe on the top of the floor pedal to slowly engage the clutch. It's like driving a clutch car; the same thing but different! If the presser feet on your friend's Rex have teeth on the bottom, you will have to reduce the top spring pressure until it just holds down the leather as you sew. Then, you may have to rub out the tooth marks with a slicker or modeling spoon. If the machine has smooth feet, no problem.

I have no such machine! I posted an ad for a friend who had a different model Rex, which he sold about a year ago. I have a National 300N, which I modified. It now has the specs of a Juki LU-1508 NH.

As for thread handling capacity, I have a National 300N, which is similar to the Nakajima 280. It maxes out at #207 thread, but sews better with #138 thread. The maximum sewing thickness of the stock machine is 3/8 inch.

A single toe foot exerts less hold-down than a double toe foot. A narrow foot also exerts less pressure than a wide foot. When sewing very dense leather, try to use the widest presser foot/feet you have for your machine. If this means you have to reposition your edge guide ahead of the outer foot, do so. Spread the top pressure out over as wide a path as possible, to keep the leather from lifting with the needle.

Yes, to both questions. Make sure you get the blanket feet and matching feed dog, all with teeth. Use that set to sew the sheepskin to the jacket. Normally, veg-tan leather is sewn using smooth bottom feet and a smooth top feed dog. In this case it won't matter and the teeth will give positive feeding of the combined thick, spongy materials.

A walking foot machine is what you need to sew these jackets. Get some natural colored thread for the bobbin and whatever color the outside of the jacket is for the top thread. 441 machines love these thick jobs. Blanket feet, with teeth, help feed sheepskin and such.

This is probably not going to work on the new machine. It is entirely different. You may have to make a custom bracket to mount between the machine and your attachments.

Andrew; Both presser feet on my friend's Cobra come down all the way. I have sewn two layers of heavy canvas with it. If they didn't, I would open the front cover and loosen the inside presser bar set screw, then lower the inside presser bar all the way. Or, I'd go to the back and raise the movable crank arm in the long curved slot, to get higher lift and drop of the alternating feet. If your inside foot does not make firm contact with the feed dog, first try raising the crank on the back. If that doesn't fix it, open the front cover, find the screw holding the inside foot in position, rotate the wheel to lower the foot to its lowest point, loosen the set screw, pull down the bar until the foot is solidly on the feed dog, make sure the inner foot is dead straight, then tighten the SOB back up. Did your machine come with a manual, or a DVD? If so, look for an exploded view of the mechanism, or instructions for adjusting various functions. If you don't have any manual or DVD, call Steve and he will walk you through the procedure. You will require a wide blade, real steel screw driver. The set screws are usually very tight and a Chinese metal screw driver will just warp if you try to apply sufficient pressure to loosen those screws. The crank on the back needs a box wrench to loosen the lock nut securing it vertically.

A Toro 3000 is a 9" arm 441 clone. As such it uses system 794 needles and only accepts the few presser feet that are made for these machines, in various brand names. I do not know of any folder or binder attachments that exist for a 441 or a clone, unless Juki offers them. You would have to have the attachments custom made, or fitted to a custom attachment holder. The only presser foot that has any metal across the back is the blanket foot, which has teeth on the bottom. You could buy a couple extra blanket feet and grind off the left toe on one and the right toe on the other, giving you a complete choice of single and double toes, with full metal coverage behind the inside foot. I have sewn with #69 thread, using a #19 leather point needle, on a 441 clone, but it took a lot of readjusting of tensions and pressures. In reality, these machines should not be used with less than #92 thread, with #138 working a lot more efficiently.