Wizcrafts

You will not hurt the machine if you use #138 bonded nylon thread and hold back the threads (together) each time you start a new stitch line. Once the top and bottom thread have locked together, let go and guide the work. A #22 or #23 leather point needle produces the best result with #138 thread. The machine will have a knee lever under the table to raise the presser feet and remove the tension from the top thread. There will be an external bobbin winder at the rear, which engages with a push lever against the drive belt, then automatically releases when the bobbin is full. Load a bobbin with thread if there isn't one already loaded with the color you need. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case so the thread feeds against the direction of rotation. This keeps it under steady tension and counteracts the tendency to unload itself inside the case, when you stop and restart suddenly (as beginners tend to do). Bring some scrap leather to learn on and to balance the tensions to get the position of the knots inside the leather. The machine probably has a push down lever to put the machine into reverse, to lock the stitches (backtacking). If so, do one stitch forward, then two in reverse, then let go the lever and sew the rest of the way in forward. When you come to the tip, slow down and hand wheel around it. When you reach the other end of the belt. back stitch 3 stitches and stop. Lift the presser feet with the knee lever and pull the work out. Cut the threads close to the leather and you're good to go! If the machine has a clutch motor, you'll need to practice running the machine without thread. It will take a while to get the hang of feathering the clutch for slow speed sewing. Use your toe on the top of the floor pedal to slowly engage the clutch. It's like driving a clutch car; the same thing but different! If the presser feet on your friend's Rex have teeth on the bottom, you will have to reduce the top spring pressure until it just holds down the leather as you sew. Then, you may have to rub out the tooth marks with a slicker or modeling spoon. If the machine has smooth feet, no problem.

I have no such machine! I posted an ad for a friend who had a different model Rex, which he sold about a year ago. I have a National 300N, which I modified. It now has the specs of a Juki LU-1508 NH.

As for thread handling capacity, I have a National 300N, which is similar to the Nakajima 280. It maxes out at #207 thread, but sews better with #138 thread. The maximum sewing thickness of the stock machine is 3/8 inch.

A single toe foot exerts less hold-down than a double toe foot. A narrow foot also exerts less pressure than a wide foot. When sewing very dense leather, try to use the widest presser foot/feet you have for your machine. If this means you have to reposition your edge guide ahead of the outer foot, do so. Spread the top pressure out over as wide a path as possible, to keep the leather from lifting with the needle.

Yes, to both questions. Make sure you get the blanket feet and matching feed dog, all with teeth. Use that set to sew the sheepskin to the jacket. Normally, veg-tan leather is sewn using smooth bottom feet and a smooth top feed dog. In this case it won't matter and the teeth will give positive feeding of the combined thick, spongy materials.

A walking foot machine is what you need to sew these jackets. Get some natural colored thread for the bobbin and whatever color the outside of the jacket is for the top thread. 441 machines love these thick jobs. Blanket feet, with teeth, help feed sheepskin and such.

This is probably not going to work on the new machine. It is entirely different. You may have to make a custom bracket to mount between the machine and your attachments.

Andrew; Both presser feet on my friend's Cobra come down all the way. I have sewn two layers of heavy canvas with it. If they didn't, I would open the front cover and loosen the inside presser bar set screw, then lower the inside presser bar all the way. Or, I'd go to the back and raise the movable crank arm in the long curved slot, to get higher lift and drop of the alternating feet. If your inside foot does not make firm contact with the feed dog, first try raising the crank on the back. If that doesn't fix it, open the front cover, find the screw holding the inside foot in position, rotate the wheel to lower the foot to its lowest point, loosen the set screw, pull down the bar until the foot is solidly on the feed dog, make sure the inner foot is dead straight, then tighten the SOB back up. Did your machine come with a manual, or a DVD? If so, look for an exploded view of the mechanism, or instructions for adjusting various functions. If you don't have any manual or DVD, call Steve and he will walk you through the procedure. You will require a wide blade, real steel screw driver. The set screws are usually very tight and a Chinese metal screw driver will just warp if you try to apply sufficient pressure to loosen those screws. The crank on the back needs a box wrench to loosen the lock nut securing it vertically.

A Toro 3000 is a 9" arm 441 clone. As such it uses system 794 needles and only accepts the few presser feet that are made for these machines, in various brand names. I do not know of any folder or binder attachments that exist for a 441 or a clone, unless Juki offers them. You would have to have the attachments custom made, or fitted to a custom attachment holder. The only presser foot that has any metal across the back is the blanket foot, which has teeth on the bottom. You could buy a couple extra blanket feet and grind off the left toe on one and the right toe on the other, giving you a complete choice of single and double toes, with full metal coverage behind the inside foot. I have sewn with #69 thread, using a #19 leather point needle, on a 441 clone, but it took a lot of readjusting of tensions and pressures. In reality, these machines should not be used with less than #92 thread, with #138 working a lot more efficiently.

Being a standard walking foot machine it uses system 135x16 needles (leatherpoint), which are available up to size 25/200. That size will sew #207 thread, top and bottom. If the machine has a standard bobbin, it will not hold much #207 thread. Otehrwise, it is perfectly capable of sewing with #138 top and bottom, up to 3/8" thickness (it clears 9/16).

The first thing you need to do is get the rust off each machine, then oil it in every visible oil hole. Baptize them in oil! Pray for the Fish! After they are clean and oiled and wiped off, find a dealer within driving distance, if any and drop them off for parts, adjusting and timing. Marion is a long way from Chi-town or Toledo, where the industrial sewing machine shops are located. It's probably safer taking them to Toledo than Chicago. If you take them to Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, on Marine Road, Toledo, Ohio, Bob and Bobby will get them running and sewing for you. Just clean the rust off first.

You may or may not be able to use the rear two holes with the new motor. If yes, you need to drill one half inch diameter hole dead center in the front, at the forward distance the frame dictates. However, it may not position the pulley in the right plane to line the belt up with the motor pulley. Your goal is to have the motor pulley line up with the machine pulley. If the existing holes are close, but no banana, elongate the rear holes forward, then drill the new front-center hole where it needs be. The motor has rubber mounts that have long slots in them. This allows you to move the motor along its central axis (fwd/bkwd). You will need to remove all of the old wiring and the old switch box and rep[lace it with the new one. If you are careful when removing the big wood staples securing the AC cords, you can pound them back in when you run the new wiring. The foot pedal connects to the motor via a slip joint that you can adjust for best positioning. Ensure that the heel goes almost, but not totally all the way down. Leave a small amount of play to the back of the pedal. The belt is another matter. Two things affect its required size. 1: the size of the pulley, in relation to the original 2: the distance from the underside of the table to the center axis of the motor shaft. If the old pulley is larger and the shaft is farther away then the new motor, you will be needing a belt a few sizes shorter. I would measure the distance from the bottom of the table to the center of the motor shaft, as well as the diameter of the original and give this information to the seller of the motor. They can compute the probable size of the belt, based on the length of the old one. For instance: Say the old belt is 44 inches, the pulley 4 inches and the distance under the table to the center of the shaft is 4 inches. If the new motor has a 2 inch pulley and is only 3 inches from the bottom of the table to the center of the shaft, your new belt would be 3 inches shorter, or 41 inches. The motor is adjustable, but gives best control when it is set close to the center of its vertical travel.

If you do rotate the leather point needles, try to do so in a direction that places the loop more in the path of the pick-up point, than away from it. Or else...

Every drop feed system has those four motions, but in a basically oval motion. It sounded a lot like the way Juki describes their "Rectangular feed" system. In this system the feed dog moves straight forward or backward, then drops straight down, then moves for the next stitch. Finally, it raises straight up. The purpose of that drive system is to provide a true and even pickup and transport of the material, to prevent gathering (as per Juki's description).

That's a company copying Juki's "rectangular feed dog system" mechanism and calling it "four motion" Just one more thing to go wrong if it gets knocked out of time.

Yes, this compound feed system will sew everything from jeans to belts, up to 3/8 inch thickness, with #138 thread, top and bottom. You can also thread it with #207 thread and change bobbins more frequently (using #24 needles). One thing it is not very good at is sewing light cloth, like cotton or stretch pants and shirts. That is where the needle feed, or just flat feed machines are better suited. Cloth likes to by driven by feed dogs. Vinyl and leather likes triple feed better.

It might be the contour of the leather point needle that's protruding slightly outside your gouge line. You could either gouge a slightly wider channel, or move the edge in slightly. Or, try using a different type of needle, that doesn't stick out on the sides as much. I sew for a friend at his shop, on his Cobra and Adler 30-70 patcher, and he prefers that I use regular sharp point needles, rather than leather point. They produce a straight stitch line and don't cut outside a groove line (except for operator error!). Just a thought.

Doug; I'm trying to show you machines that do what you asked about. That is one of your best solutions in a cylinder arm machine. You are going to need a compound feed machine for the work you intend to sew. It is a medium priced machine with the same capabilities as your Consew 206RB. Am I misunderstanding what you are looking for? By the way; You'll need a #24 needle to properly sew with #207 thread, top and bottom. A #23 will get you 207 on top and 138 in the bobbin, depending on the density of the material.

Don't be in such a hurry to put the Cobra to work that you neglect to oil it. New machines need to be oiled and broken in, like a new car engine. Some new 441 owners have overlooked this step and seized their machines.

One down, two to go!

Typically, when one mentions a needle feed sewing machine, they are referring to one that has feed dogs moving in sync with the needle and a completely flat presser foot. These machines are built for the garment construction trade. They are especially useful when sewing stretchy material, like elastic waist bands on underwear, or stretch pants. None of the needle feed machines in the garment class are capable of sewing with #138 thread. They probably can handle #92 thread, with a #19 needle. Juki makes some nice needle feed machines, as do its clones. If you want to change your flatbed walking foot machine for a cylinder arm machine with similar specs, look here. There are some needle feed, jump foot machines made for harness makers. I have one: a Union Lockstitch Machine. Some Ferdinand Bull machines are jump foot-needle feed, as are the Luberto Classics and Number 9 machines. Plus, all Campbell-Randall stitchers are jump foot, but with awl feed.

I had an Adler 204-374 for a while and got my bobbins, needles, thread and oil from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Their toll free number is 866-362-7397.

Have you ever tried a post machine with a double roller feed?

Well then, you could consider a Juki LS-1340 or 1341. I suspect that you can find a bolt-on table attachment, or make one yourself. I would definitely recommend a needle positioning motor system. Order the entire machine and motor/table already setup. You are looking at big money for any of these top-of-the-line Juki machines. I suggest you contact a Juki dealer who will accept your leather samples and sew them on various Juki machines, labeling each with the model code. Have the sewn samples returned and compare the stitch quality and other details, like marks on the bottom or top. You may find one that is better than the rest. I know we have member dealers who are authorized Juki dealers. Hello out there! Where are you? Bob? Greg? Ronnie?

Your machine uses a Juki 441 bobbin, which is the same as the Adler 205.