GrampaJoel

Sure. It’s basically just a big taco that fits a tube at one end and is flat at the other. The pattern resembles a ‘T’ shape. Everything else was trial and error fitting.

Dwight I first measured the diameter of the internal tube. Then the outside of the leather covering the tube. I decided how much recess I wanted and cut a circle to accommodate the measurements. I used a circle cutter to cut the end cap round. I used the internal tube as a wet mold for the end cap. And trimmed when the sewing was finished. I skiver the internal cap a little to make it more flexible. Joel

Well the parts ie. The leather, thread, ripstop fabric, findings, and such alone came to more than any take down fly rod and reel I’ve ever seen. Let alone the creation time. But it was made for a very special long time family friend as a thank you for custom rods he has made for me.

Hi Dwight. I’m not sure which part you are referring to. If you can describe it more ,perhaps I will understand. And I would be happy to share my methods. Joel Thank you.

Yes ,, it’s 70D, waterproof ripstop nylon, with a thin saddle seat foam padding between the ripstop and the leather.

I made this takedown fly rod/reel case for a friend. I made my own pattern, and the case is completely hand stitched. It’s been awhile since I made something completely hand stitched. I forgot how much work big items are to get perfect. 5-6oz Wicket/Craig harness leather. Tobacco colored leather. I used orange pumpkin colored Ritza waxed poly thread. It was a lot of stitching by hand. Some ok, some not so ok. I’ll certainly make some changes to my pattern next time.

Bump Still available

Very, very cool! There is a nice quality to your work!

Sorry, no. I will not ship the saddle stand. and, You’re about as far away from me as you can get on this continent. Nova Scotia? It would cost quite a bit to ship this stand and saddle tree and parts. my second sentence in the add says “you must pick up in Redlands/Yucaipa, area of California.” sorry, thanks for the interest.

Yes, this is still available . are you able to pick it up? I’m in Redlands/ Yucaipa area of southern California.

Still available.

SOLD

SOLD,!

Here’s photos of the back sides of the DVD’s. the three is of saddle making. the single dvd is of buckrolls and biscuits.

Kevin, hi I’m sorry not to get back to you sooner. I have only been watching for PMs as to a response. i didn't see yours until today. 9/15/22. if you are still interested, please let me know. I’ll take PayPal, or Venmo, or a check, or cash. your choice. ill get them to you for $10.00 shipping. so the total would be $50.00. Joel

I have a Ron’s drawdown stand for sale. $700.00 you must pick up in Redlands/Yucaipa, area of California. I will include a Timberline saddle tree with seat pan, stirrups, Blivens, and cinch rings. the tree is a plainsman 1/2 seat style. I bought it for myself, and slightly started the saddle. But things changed. if interested, PM me here.

Two, stirrup leather guide tools. Both have never been used and still have the original price tag on them. One 2 1/2” guide, and one 3” guide. Sold as a set $35.00 plus shipping. shipping from southern California. Contact me through PM here at leatherworker. thank you Joel

SOLD!!

I have a cobra class 4 for sale. $1500.00 it comes with thread and needles. Extra bobbins. a table top also. it’s too heavy for me to ship. It must be picked up in person. come try it out. I’m in Redlands Ca.

This set does not include the patterns. I have no idea where they are. You really need to make your own anyway. the whole set for $40.00 plus shipping. 2 books and 2 DVD’s ..

These dvds are for sell . Saddle making , by Jeremiah Watts. and his Buck rolls and Biscuits dvd. the saddle making dvds cost $399.00 from ranch2arena. Jeremiah Watts. I’m selling the 3 dvd saddle making set for $110.00 plus cost of shipping. Buck roll and Biscuits dvd $10. Plus shipping.

VERY NICE WORK!! I am wondering. How are the pistol grips attached? I don’t see screws or lacing anything.

Battlemunky. yeah,, the liner is completely glued to the outside. I think the problem is one of design. As Chuck, above, referenced. It is the filling of the pockets that are causing the sides to swell, and hence causing the curve in the spine when the wallet is closed. I may have reached the size limits on this design. thanks for cogitating on it for me. Joel

Thanks for the replies, both Klara and chuck, and battlemunky. Chuck, I think you may have hit the reason for the bend. I too believe, since you mentioned it. That there is no support in the area of the back that is bending. And when cards are inserted the wallet tends to stretch in that area. But when it closes the stretched area, is still stretched, and that causes the perceived bend. hummmm, by George, now how to fix this design problem???. thanks everyone! Joel

I have been using it in front and back pockets. it has traveled in my back pocket or front from Denver to Atlanta Georgia. It’s been sweated on and tossed on a table many times. it has 6 credit card size plastic cards in it. A couple of folded US dollars and some paper receipts in it. just edc types of items. what I’m wondering, is why it bends the way it does. is it a design flaw? Or is the bend just the result of the wallet style? I built this small wallet in a rush because I had a big trip coming up and I wanted to test the design. It is small enough for front Levi, and cargo shorts type pockets. But tends to get lost in back pockets. It does fit in some camp type shirt pockets also. I did find some things that need changing,,,, but the bend in the back has me perplexed. thanks Joel