GrampaJoel

That’s a pretty nice bag! I like the outer pockets, and the inner pockets. many times I see bags presented with no pockets at all, and there’s nothing wrong with that. But I like pockets.

Yes, you might be on to it.

if his underwear said, North Star. Would the assumption in the movie be that his name was North Star? So,,, do you not mark,, your leather goods at all? Yes, it’s about 3/4” long.

Over the years I have always marked my leather work. Mostly western/horse/ cowboy/gun holsters types of items. I had a oval stamp with my name and city and made in USA on it. I see a lot similar in the western products. No one ever questioned me about it. Recently,,, I changed venues, from large items to smaller personal items. I also changed my mark to a stamp with just my stylized first name.( see below) Sooo,,, I was showing a wallet prototype to a niece today at lunch, and after commenting that she liked it, she ask, but,,, was I going to put my name on all of them? I explained it was my makers mark. Not unlike the mark on her ‘ Fossil ‘ branded wallet. She seemed to not understand that they were the same thing. so my question is , do you think my new logo is ok? and/or,,,should I add something to indicate it as a makers mark? thanks Joel

I admire your work, and kindness. I’m 73. For 10-15 years I have always made larger horse related items. These days I’m trying to wind down the shop, to just small items now. But my shaking hands often prevent the precision work of your quality. I admire your work, and celebrate you,,,,, for your generous posts on this forum to help others. Thank you and Merry Christmas! Joel

Those have been out for ten years or so. nothing new.

I have a Cobra np4 bell skiver. I have had it for maybe around 10 years. It works well and I have had no problems with it. it will be the last thing I ever sell from my shop. I love it! Joel

The pieces I have done are all still in pretty condition. But they are both contact cemented and sewn down. but some wear will always distort the pinked sharp edges. Especially on a saddle. However, for waved items that are not being pressure rubbed it doesn’t seem to affect it.

On this saddle I rebuilt the seat on and used a rolling cutter with a pinking blade. The rolling cutter works real well.

They might be cut with a rolling cutter with a waffle or pinking blade. I have uses the cutter to do that.

What a grand idea! I carried a pocket watch for many years. It worn out and no one could fix it. Finding pants with watch pockets did also become a challenge. I love you idea. And you presentation is excellent! Joel

MOST EXCELLENT!! what a prize. someone has honored you.

Nice work! a watch as an accessory to your dress style? Hummmm. I never thought of that. I wear the same watch every day. But then I think of it as a tool. That’s why I don’t wear a fancy one. I guess I’m behind the times again. Still it’s a very nice case for your watches. Joel

Looks a bit like glue drops on the wrong side. or resist drops.

Thank you, thank you VERY MUCH!! Joel

Ooooohh. I need some pink leather just like that for a wallet. will you share with me what type of leather it is? thanks Joel

There will always be a bulge of some kind even with t-pockets. skiving will eliminate quite a bit of the bulge but not all. the closest I have come to eliminating the bulge is by using nylon glued or sewn to the (’T’ ) part of the T-pockets.

I’m a real old guy. I’m hard to impress. But you have done it. a simple design, done flawlessly. VERY nice work!! I’m truly impressed! Joel

Very nice work! nice job on ending your stitching too! what is the thickness you are using for the colored undersides? Joel

Very nice! I like the leather choices. how much would you say it weights?

Ok,,, it looks you got the idea. I have found that if you make the overhang,(lip?) of the bottom about 1/4” in length,, it helps ‘hide’ the uneven underside stitching somewhat. my process is 1. to make the mold. 2. Then cut and skive it at the length I need. 3.Then put the stitch line on the outside wrap , before wrapping around the mandrel.. and mark the stitching holes. 4. when I stitch I use the outside marked stitching holes and push my awl through aiming for the center of the bottom. Hoping to get an even spacing on the underside. If you look closely at my picture in the above posting, you can see that it doesn’t always work. I think stitch spacing has a lot to do with it. Or maybe calculus, or quantum physics?? anyway,,, Dwight,,,I can see you have got the idea. Now all it takes is lots of practice, and patience. good going. Joel edit to add. The bottom molds a lot easier if it is about 1/2 as thick as the outside.

Thank you. Joel

Dwight skiving the edges of the formed piece helps the forming. the outside was just glued and sewn. Around the formed piece. it was easier and less time consuming than it is to write about or to try and explain. But, if you have any more questions I’m happy to share my process and explain it the best I can. HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO EACH OF YOU! Joel

Hey Ron,,How’s it going? Built any saddles lately? yeah little league fall baseball got in the way for awhile. Little grandson sitting and picking up from school,,,fun stuff like that. Sometimes it’s great to be an old Grampa. plus there were some unexpected events. but the case finally got done, and is now in North Carolina. the next case will certainly be built differently. Thank you! Thank you!

Thank you very much. To be honest it has flaws. The leather was so waxy it was hard to get contact cement to reliably hold. Even after scraping. The leather stretched in places not expected, and threw my stitching lines off. This might have been less noticeable had I chosen a dark thread instead of the contrasting orange. the thread was so waxy that it picked up handling dirt. I managed to pull off the project, ok, but it isn’t a true showpiece. the next one will certainly be made from different leather. Thank you for the compliment Chuck. Joel