steelhawk

My local hardware store gets theirs from Midwest Fasteners. They don't sell to individuals. My last box of 100 6/32 T-nuts cost me $12.59. I don't really know if I can get them cheaper elsewhere.

Does a vinegaroon treated holster actually damage the finish on a gun? I thought that once it was neutralized all was well.

I make mine the same way. I first thought the other holster was lined, but it technically isn't since both pieces of each side are the same thickness of leather. It makes a smooth side finish to the interior of the holster. Katsass here on the board makes his the same way, but he uses thicker leather.

I've made holsters for the UC II using the Micro Compact blue gun. My customers say it fits theirs fine.

A customer brought in his gun, fitted with a tactical light. He brought in his old holster as well, made by Don Hume. It looks to be made from 3/4 oz leather glued together, then two pieces of that laminate are glued up to make the holster body, four pieces in total. The thumb break strap has more flexibility than the ones I make. I currently use resolene as a finish. I like the flexibility of the strap, as it helps to avoids wrinkle lines, but don't know how to achieve that.

You can also change the foot to the left sided one so it doesn't mark the holster up. You have to start it the right way so the missing leg is where you want it to be. Most of my stitching is done with the two sided foot, though, but I switch out if I need to.

Do you make some with screw slots on both pieces? I saw a sling with those on it and thought it would work well to keep them from loosening up, but can't find a source.

What about a little bit of Tandy Leathercraft Cement dyed brown, then rubbed into the hole?

I had a problem with thread on my machine and somehow poked a small hole where one shouldn't be. It is only through the top layer of a brown holster. What is the best way to fix it, it there is one?

Is there a reason to have a multi mold over a blue gun to make leather holsters?

I looked at making my own using a swamp cooler motor, $89 new. It's 1750 rpm which is the right speed, I believe.

Nice. I don't know how leather grips hold up compared to other, more durable materials.

The Weaver machine looks great. There is also a similar one offered by Cobra Steve. I can't afford either and have been using home made ones in a drill press. But I have wanted better ones for awhile. I have seriously considered getting something from either leatherburnishers.com or proedgeburnishers.com and will order one of them as soon as I get a bit more of the green stuff. I'm in UT not CO so green stuff only means dollars. Eric Adams, Particle on this site, uses the pro edge ones.

Very nice. I hope one day to make one for myself.

I don't work that many hours, but I occasionally put in a long day. Whereabouts in Utah are you?

Really nice. Hope I get time this year to make me one.

I currently use a Tandy non adjustable knife. Ive had it for a very long time. The length seems fine but I am looking for a better quality one, but not a tall one. Has anyone used the pro deluxe short model that Springfield offers? Is it the same length as the Tandy one? Of course, I will consider other brands as long as they fit my hand.

Thanks much. Using a Chicago screw is a good idea for something like this. It's easier than sewing the end shut.

A customer sent me his light for a holster. I didn't realize how large the thing was until I got it. The thing is almost two inches long, 1 1/2 inches wide and 1 1/4 inches high. I can't make my normal style of OWB holster, using the trigger guard stitching to keep the gun from sliding down, since the light is so wide it prevents that. My only solution so far is a wide body and a closed end with an added thumb break for retention. Has anyone made a holster using this light?

I used the stamps I bought on a scrap piece of pre-dyed belt leather. Two different Jueschke stamps and two different borders.

Very nice. What do you put inside?

This is a great thread. After reading it I went to my favorite hardware store to check out the stainless bolts. The owner didn't know what the steel was but looked it up. It is 18-8. Another place also sells 18-8 and some that are 316. I looked up 18-8 and it said it was another name for 300 series steel, but wasn't specific on the actual number, like 304 used by the opening poster of this thread. I don't really know if either one is good for making something like bevelers and shaders.

I'll post some after I get caught up with some holster orders. January has been a record month for me.

I recently bought the Press-n-snap tool with the extra pull-the-dot socket. It works great for Tandy, Durable and PTD snaps.

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