steelhawk

I use belly leather to make test holsters. There is nothing fancy about them, just two slabs just a bit wider than the stitch lines. Most times, one adjustment after the test holster is made gets the stitch lines close enough. Every once in a while, it isn't good enough and if I can't fix it with a second stitch line closer to the gun ( most times not possible), then I have a holster for the junk drawer.

I really like that sheath. The wicker is great. What tools did you use?

Sometimes I have to make my stitch lines crooked so they come out straight when the thing is molded. On the mag pouches for one gun, the stitch lines slant inward. When the magazine is inserted, the lines go straight. It took a couple of times to figure out the angle.

Those look great. What are the guns? One looks like a Single Six.

How do you adjust it to 600 RPM? I'm using the S3 setting of 4 to sew my holsters and belts, but don't know what RPM that is.

I have a request for a black holster with grey thread. I don't want to buy a 1 lb spool for $40. I am willing to hand stitch it, though, if I can find some suitable thread. The customer is willing to pay a bit extra for it .

If you sew a piece on at the top and the bottom, or extend the back piece out so you can fold it over, then sew it on, it will be secure. If you use snaps, use the Pull-the-dot ones. I use regular Tandy line 24 snaps on my IWB holsters and only on rare occasions has one popped open, and only because I bumped something very hard. I always heard them pop open when that happened. However, I have a flashlight holder secured with a Tandy snap and that thing will pop open without my knowing it and fall off the belt in the bathroom.

They are quite good. I hope she sells lots.

It is very nice. I'll have to try the dye method you used. I was wondering, though, what keeps the gun secured in the holster? Is there a hammer strap that I can't see?

I may try the stuff again. You made a similar post last year and my wife is highly sensitive to contact cement fumes, so I tried it on a belt I was making. What a disaster it was. Glue everywhere. I had nothing but trouble trying to remove unwanted, dried glue that got on the grain sides of the leather.

Katsass, that's just too funny. I won't make an SOB holster, or wear one, either.

Will does say this, though: "The leather has a light gray coloration at this point. If I had left it in longer, it would turn a deep purple black that will never rub off on clothing. However, since I want the illusion of age, I took it out early." I guess I'll have to put some iron in a plastic bucket and give it a try.

I'm not a concho expert, having put them on one holster, between the leather layers. I won't do that again, as the finish stained them and I couldn't get them looking new again.

I got some little black plastic thingies from Tim at High Desert Leather in Utah. They should fit in the snap just fine.

Shooter, I really appreciate this as well. I'm making my first thumb break holster for a Deputy Sheriff friend of mine. Your pics have left me very assured that mine will come out good. I made a test holster that came out pretty well, but I needed a length adjustment on the wrap over strap. It was 1/4 too short. Fortunately it was a quickie holster with scrap leather.

6/32 T-nuts and a tapered head screw, with blue loctite to keep the screw from loosening up. I put Resolene over the area where the straps go, and on the back of the straps, then a little wax over that area, before actually putting the straps on. I think the wax keeps the squeaks down, but don't really know.

I made one with narrow straps and not enough width on the "wings". It was my first one. I had made a prototype, but never got it to a wearable state, which was a mistake. I sent it off and the customer thought it was putting too much stress on the forward snap using a wilderness instructor's belt. The one-way snap never came undone, but he didn't like it and sent it back. I wore it for a week and made some design changes. I widened the wings and the straps, made one for me and wore it for a week. Then I made one for the customer and included a magazine holder with it. The customer is very pleased with this one. I like mine, too. The new one has replaceable straps, since they will wear out before the body. With two snaps per strap, I didn't see the need for the one-way ones and just used Tandy snaps.

It looks great. How about some pics with the gun, both in and out of the holster.

Thanks. That is what I'll do. I hadn't thought of buying a real gun part.

I noticed the same thing with USMC Black when I was using it. Oil dye for black is what I use now and haven't noticed dye coming off.

I have a Springfield Micro Compact blue gun that I am thinking of modifying to move the safety into the locked position. Not sure about the best ways to do this, especially with what to use to glue it back on, or maybe fasten it some other way. Any advice is appreciated.

Nothing gives more relief than saving what looks like a ruined project.

Since this thread got resurrected, I decided to ask a question I had when I visited the Ghormley site. He mentioned a "rust barrel'. Can you turn leather black with a barrel of rusty water, without it being vinegaroon?

They look good. I'm sure the girl will like it.

When there is a part that I have to hand stitch, I will use the bonded nylon thread only if I have to match the thread that will be machine stitched. If I don't have to, then I will use waxed thread from Tandy.