busted

Any time.

I think this is called a rapid folder I have seen one once before. I have no idea how it sews or what it sews. I think it is around the 1920's.

The only 104 manual I could find is located in this web site in England. http://seweazi.com/adler.html here is another site http://www.proleptic...cts/index/10?show=100

Sounds like the needle bar has some wear on it. Leave the power off and turn the machine by hand. Place a piece of (clean meaning no holes) scrap under the needle leave the pressure foot down run the needle bar down with the hand wheel do this while keeping pressure on the needle bar with your left finger, thumb, hand what ever you want to use. Hold pressure to the left and change directions put pressure to the right. See how far you can move the needle left and right doing this. It won't take long to see what is loose or worn. It might not be this but is worth a try.

I use a polypropylene cutting board `20" x 40" x 1" thick. It works great. I can't imagine a leather shop without one. These tools we use ain't cheap ya' need all the help ya' can get to keep them functioning properly.

You need to try submersing the leather in your dye instead of dabbing a little on the leather. Get yourself a 9" x 13" Teflon coated baking tin. Put enough dye in the tin to completely cover the leather. Immerse the leather 60 to 90 seconds. You need to prepare a place to lay your newly dyed project or if you have already punched holes to sew it up use one of those holes and a piece of thread to hang it on a nail and allow it to drip dry (over night). Buff out the topcoat after it is dried. A mixture of 70% Resolene and 30% water should give the finish you are looking for. Do not buff the Resolene. Use the baking tin and immerse the dyed project in the Resolene also. Allow this to air dry in the same manner as the first step. This should stop the bleeding dye. Good luck

You need to try submersing the leather in your dye instead of dabbing a little on the leather. Get yourself a 9 x 13 Teflon coated cake pan. Put enough dye in the pan to completely cover the leather. Immerse the leather 60 to 90 seconds. You need to prepare a place to lay your newly dyed project or if you have already punched holes to sew it up use one of those holes and a piece of thread and hang it on a nail and allow it to drip dry (over night). Buff out the topcoat when it is dried and finish the project. Then apply the Resolene. The 60/40 mix sounds pretty good, follow his directions for using that mixture. This should greatly improve your finish. You should notice a very different finish allow it to dry buff out the excess If you would be interested in trying a different topcoat I would suggest Beilers Tuff & Glossy Leather Finish in black. I t will not rub off once applied and allowed to dry. Beiler's Manf. & Supply 717 768 0174 Ronks, Pa ask for their catalog. Good luck.

The tool was junk when you bought it. Using it 3 or 4 times will not trash the tool. How much does the maul weigh you are using?

Thanks Moe. I have been wanting to try making a pair of shoes.

Buy the #3 Landis he has sitting, if the guy doesn't want an arm and a leg for it. It is about the best you will get. You should keep and eye on the Kijiji.ca site. You missed a Juki 441 last week the guy only wanted 2500 for it.

Both things you applied to your harness are not sealers. Purchase a bottle of Resolene. Follow the directions on the label of the bottle, this will stop the bleeding color. Allow it to dry one half hour.

I put a speed reducer on mine it runs around 350 spm. I found some 7x1 22 needles that is around a 160 size it will sew #92 thread up to a #3 cord with the size 25 needle installed. It does a really nice stitch at 5 spi with 277 or 207 thread. It does not like thin material 2 or 3 ounce. I tried to sew a purse from elk skin (3-4oz.) no way wadded it up It easily sews 2 pieces of 12 oz. It will not do 3 layers of 12 oz. I hope that was helpful.

This is a knock-off of the Singer 45k. Bottom feed, no walking foot, no reverse, it use's the 328 needle. The same machine as the Ferdco 440 pro. It will sew 1\2 inch of material

You have finally found the finish that you need to seal the dye into the leather and waterproof it too. Resolene. Do not be shy in the application it takes around 1\2 hour to dry.

The "S" stands for Simanco. This I believe is around 1920, very nice attachments for the home machine.

Wrong part

I don't believe a larger bobbin will fit. The patchers use the smaller bobbins.

Yeah, the Taliban need all the help they can get.

Resolene is not high gloss.

You might want to try Resolene. It looks like milk smells like ammonia and works great. I use it to water proof my belts and lock the dye in the leather. All you need to apply it is a rag or paper towel. Get the rag wet with Resolene and wipe it on your project and allow it to dry. Do not lay a wet piece on another piece of leather it will stick and ruin the finish. I hang my belts on a nail and allow them to dry. A flat piece just leave it where it lies and allow it to dry.

I made an embossing press from mine. Works pretty good.

Have you found the person you need for your work?

OK I was misunderstanding the structure of your pile. Try doing away with the setter use just the hammer. Try this on scrap pieces. What you are doing should work just fine.

You have half of the battle won (16 ounce hammer). You need something that is solid to back up your rivet. A piece of latigo will not do the job. It allows the rivet to sink into the leather when you strike it. Try a piece of 3/4 inch steel flat stock and don't put anything behind the rivet other than that now strike it with the hammer. When you get the double ended rivet set properly you will not need the tubular rivets. Copper burrs are for material 1/2" or over I use the 1" burrs for the nose bands I make you don't need anything with that much holding power. Usually a tubular rivet is not stronger than a solid rivet.

That is a really nice machine. If you are going to start a leather shop you can't do better than the 441. If I had the money I would drive up and buy it myself I am only 5 1/2 hours away. It has a good price on it. You better jump on it before someone finds it.