busted

I hate when that happens. The solution I came upon is taking the setting tool, put in a drill press and take a file and cut the shoulder off of the setting tool. The only thing left is the rise in the middle of the tool that mushrooms the snap post.. I don't loose any more snaps.

If I did this right you should be able to download the manual. Consew.pdf

http://consew.marginspluslive.com/images/products/PARTSBO/224-224r1-225-226r1instr.pdf. Try this and see if it any better.

Can't really answer that question. I never tried to rub it off.

Gun bluing on nickle plate will turn black. or least a very dark blue.

It is a long time from your posting of this article. Is the British machine still for sale?

Is this machine still for sale? Where in NY are you located?

You are one of the few that understand the Goricle and his stupidity. God designed the earth for man and plant to survive together. Man generates co2 by breathing and the plants use the co2 to live and exhale o2 in the process. What a marvelous invention God made. I really like the one about the cow farts destroying the ozone ROFLOL what a bunch of idiots. Those pig tail lights are the next thing of stupidity replacing a harmless incandescent light bulb with a bulb that contains mercury. Now that is a great idea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I totally agree with you and the gentleman from Canada.

It is a "square eye swivel" they are solid brass, nickle plated brass or stainless steel; there is a small version (1/2" #00720 and 5/8" #00722 ) and a large version (3/4" #00703 and 1" #00704). They are listed in my parts book from Beiler's Manufacturing and Supply 717 768 0174. That should solve the problem.

Please remove this post and reply. Thank you.

The first thing you need to know when making a belt is this; what ever size the pants you wear the size above that is the belt size you need. Like you wear a 32 pants your belt size is 34. To make a belt from scratch you will add 9 inches to the size of your belt. Your 34 inch belt is 43 inches long for the blank. At one end of the blank make these measurements. I use an English point for all of my buckles. Measure in 1/2" to the first hole, this is for a line 24 or line 20 snap which ever one you use. Measure the next hole 1 1/.2" from the first hole. This too is a snap location. The next hole is for the buckle I use 1 1/2" buckle on a 1 1/2" belt some folks use 1 3/8ths buckles. This hole is usually made with a bag punch 1 1/2" long. The distance from the last snap hole to the buckle hole is 3/4". The next hole is at the end of the belt buckle hole. It too is 3/4" from the end of the buckle hole. The final hole is 1 1/2" from the previous hole. These next holes are where the belt size is obtained. Measure from the center of the buckle hole to the size you want the belt to be in your case the hole will be marked at 34" this is the center of the hole layout. I use 5 holes at 1 1/4" apart. 2 on the right and 2 on the left of the center hole and I leave 3 1/2" to the end of the belt. Finally I would dye what ever color you want it to be; edge the material I use bees wax on the edges you can use what ever you would like and I seal every thing with Febings Resolene. If you are going to do any tooling you can do it now if you want to. Have fun making this stuff.

Would you pm me please. I can't find your email address.

I would suggest this to you. A piece of 3/4" steel plate as backing for your work and beneath your table top directly under the steel plate I would put a 4x6 wooden post that would reach the floor. The wooden post should be long enough to put pressure on the underside of the table top. Place your piece of steel directly above the post. Maybe that will stop the "noise".

What direction were you turning the hand crank? I hope it was to the right. If not you were running the thing backwards. If you put the bobbin in the shuttle backwards and try to sew with it that will break a needle too. There are two pieces of leather in side the shuttle. One in the left hand corner with a screw through it and the other is on the right side with another screw through that also. The leather is 9 oz. it takes up the slack inside the shuttle to keep the critter close to the side of the throat so it can catch the loop once it is formed. There is a flat spring in there too. One end of the spring is screwed behind the piece of leather that is on the right side. What shape are the bobbins in? The small screw on the end of the shuttle are left handed threads for the tension on the bobbin. There is a tiny spring inside there too. If there is no needle guide installed you will probably break needles. This guide keeps the needle in the center of the needle plate. You need to see where the needle is striking when it goes through the needle plate too. It should be in the middle of the hole. If it isn't have someone weld the hole shut with TIG and make a new one. I will shut up for now. Keep tinkering you will get it running.

This is what your machine looks like when it is all together. I don't know if you can make out the thread path or not. There is a flat piece of spring steel on top of the machine actually it is two pieces of spring steel screwed tightly together. Almost forgot to tell ya' the thread goes between the two pieces of steel. You should WD40 it and run some 400 weight sand paper through it before you put thread in it; this is the thread tension. The thread continues to the left there are 3 rollers that the thread rides through. I think you can see them in the picture next to the needle guide and down to the needle eye. This thing makes an awsome stitch when you get it set up and running. Don't make any "adjustments" to it before you sew with it. Hope this is some help.

That is a Landis #1 minus the wax pot and stand. This phone number (217 543 3464) is the gentleman that bought out Landis when it folded he lives in Illinois. When you get the machine setup it will sew 7/8" material without breathing hard. The largest thrdead it will sew with is a Linen #7 cord with needle size 280 or 300 Schmetz 331LR and it will sew with a 138 thread also. DO NOT use nylon thread on this machine it stretches really bad. Use the linen or polyester. This link is for the needles [- Strima -] - sewing machines, cutting, fusing, ironning devices. Movies, auctions, e-shop. - Products I think it works. Good luck with your new machine it is very nice stitcher. It is around 110 years old.

An Adler is just like any other machine if it is worn out you will not like it if it is almost new it will do a very good job for you. You should look for a Juki also. Juki's are made in Japan not in China they are much better quality than the Chinese machines. Pfaff is another good machine. Are you sure you need a cylinder arm?? A flatbed with walking foot with a speed reducer would work pretty good too. That is what I have 111W155 with a speed reducer it sews around 400 spm. If you need more speed replace the clutch pully and go faster. Just bumping the start peddle on my machine can make 2 or 3 stitches per minute if you need to sew that slowly. http://www.strima.com/cat/k-2000185/ I don't know if this will help but they are from Europe don't know if they have used machines or not. That was my 2 cents. Good luck to ya'.

I don't want to bust your bubble but "tooling belly" is a misnomer. Belly leather will not accept tooling. It is to soft. If you are using a rawhide or wooden mallet they are not heavy enough to leave a good impression they have a tendency to bounce the tool. You need a heavier maul/mallet. Good luck on your new hobby

Try not to crash the Schmetz needles They are no longer made. The 200 & 230 are the needles you need to do most of your sewing with. Schmetz stopped making the 331lr last year they were the only manufacturing company that made the needle for the Landis #1. Do you have any of the needle bushings for the needle guide? The 280 and 250 needle are getting hard to find too. The 300 needle was the largest it used a 7 cord for harness. You don't need the wax pot It was used to make harness when the machine was new. The thread looper is at the base of the needle inside the shuttle trough in front of the needle. The thread was routed through a looping and wax device and then put in the leather from the bottom of the feed dogs. Probably you don't have the burner that is required to keep the wax pot hot don't worry about it Nylon thread will not work on this machine it will bind and wad up in a mess of tight little loops under the material and behind the bobbin and shuttle. Actually nylon thread is crap it stretches to much. They are called pricker feet and they are called this for a reason. On the original Landis foot there are 4 small points on the bottom of the foot. If they are not there someone sanded or filed them off or wore them out you need to invest in some that are not worn out.. The stitch length is controlled by the length of the pricker foot. there are 7 or 8 sizes of the pricker foot. When you change the stitch length you need those pricker points on the bottom of it. that is how you set the stitch length with the new pricker foot. Good luck to ya' getting this fine machine up an running.

I don't know about the Pearson needle, it probably would work. I think the number 7x23 needle would work too. I have a couple of boxes of the #7 needles. The needles for the #1 are becoming very hard to find. I miss spoke on the owners location of the Landis stuff he lives in Illinois not Indiana.

I made a belt for the #1 I had. I took two pieces of 10 oz material cut to the length needed lap skive both ends on the top piece and on the bottom piece glue the pieces together at the skive. make the pieces 180 degrees apart and sew them with a single pass of 277 down the middle. Next take your #3 edger and round the new belt to fit the pulley. Mine was around 1\2" when I finished. And last but not least use either the wire splice from your old belt or make a new one. Cut your new belt and fit the wire splice to it. It will stretch just make a new hole and move the wire loop. You should be able to find a powered stand for the #1 and leave the peddles in place. I found one in Ohio. The guy that invented the #1 was a genius it is very simple to work on. It should sew 7/8" with no problem. I was sewing 3 pieces of 10 oz with out trouble. I had the stitch down to 5 spi it was very nice top and bottom. The guy that bought out Landis inventory has a shop in Indiana his phone is 217 543 3464 I can't think of his name. The Smithsonian web site there is a book for the Landis #1 that you can download. Do you have the original needles? You need to obtain some before the sell for gold. The last I bought were 2.00 a piece. Needles rage in size from 180 to 280 and 300 needle will work for the 7 cord. You can use the 794 needles but you would have to retime the needle bar. There was a guy on Ferdco swap board that had some Landis #1 stuff for sale. If it is still for sale you should grab it. In the bobbin shuttle there are two pieces of leather on either end of the shuttle if the shuttle moves back and forth more than 3\8" these pieces need to be replaced. They hold the bobbin close to the loop maker. Does your machine have the wax pot still attached to the front of the machine? Everything you have oiled needs taken apart and the rust removed from all rotating/sliding parts. DO NOT use grease in the back of the hand crank cam. You should take the hand crank off and clean and free up the cam followers. One more thing DO NOT use nylon thread on this machine it will not work. Use a good quality linen thread. 5, 6, or 7 cord I used the stuff from Campbell. Good luck this is very nice machine

Their name is durable snap. They are manufactured in either a line 20 or a line 24. I made a tool for the line 20 snap. I did not like the line 24 tool. These snaps have a nasty habit of not locking when you use the standard setting tool. The tool is supposed to roll the snap post down and lock it to the other half of the snap. I took the tool and stuck it in a drill press and filed the outer edge off, this forms the roll over. It now rolls the snap post down and flattens it against the other half of the snap. They don't come off.

No, you don't need to worry about drum dyed leather bleeding on anything. All I use on drum dyed is Resolene to make it shine.

This chart might be of help. http://www.industria...doc3/thread.htm The next needles you buy should be 794 r, d, or s size 230 or 250 for the 346 thread. TwinOak is right when you install a new needle you are placing the needle at a right angle to the hook so after the needle penetrates the leather and forms the stitch the thread falls where it may thus leaving the appearance of a zigzag stitch. Reposition the needle ever so slightly moving closer to the hook so the stitch forms earlier. That should move the thread to one side of the needle hole and do away the zigzag. This looks good on paper but I don't know if it will it fly???