busted

I don't know if this link will help or not. http://www.usa-dealer.net/search.asp?keyword=cylinder+arm&search=GO

How much of this material do you require to complete your project?? I have some Barbour thread I would be willing to part with some of it. It is from Campbell I bought it two or three years ago and hardly use it. I have the 6 cord in black and the 3 cord in off-white if memory serves me correctly. I can't help with the cobblers wax all I have is bee's wax. Send a pm with your address.

Latigo would not be my first choice for a shoe sole. If you are building shoes I would use Herman Oak 12-14 oz material.

http://www.usa-dealer.net/ I don't know if they will have what you want or not. Good luck.

Jimmy, I think the easiest would be to make a new one. I don't see how you could put on a patch that would look nice. Good luck.

I have seen only one of these edgers for sale on Ebay in the last ten years. A friend of mine made his own edger it is a copy of the Randall you are looking for. Why is it necessary to have a Randall edger?? Just curious. Bluegrass makes an edger I think Heritage makes one too.

50 years later has a picture of some trigger snaps that might work for ya'. Beiler's Manufacturing has them in their catalog their phone is 7177680174. It is called a heavy snap item Z5013 (1/2" 5/8" 3/4") & 5013 round snap is 5/8" and 3/4". The Z designation is for nickle plated cast material while the 5301 is for solid brass. Hope this helps.

I can't tell for sure from the picture but they are probably tubular rivets with a cap attached to them. They make a better looking job than the rapid rivets. http://www.hansonrivet.com/w05b.htm

I have a skiver just like this. I had to make a new roller for it. The reason being the L shaped mounting bar wore one of the pins faster than the other side. The roller sits crooked in those mounting L's That is why the leather slides up and down the roller. Have someone check the small ends of the roller and see if they are the same diameter. Mine was off by 1\32" it doesn't sound like much but the leather knows for sure it isn't even. Good luck.

About half way down the home page of this web site is the manual you are looking for it is free download. http://homeappliance.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/singer/45k25.html

These guys might be able to help. http://micronmetals....ds/lead/pb-100?

The most effective way to stop leather from stretching is to stop using leather that stretches. This will eliminate all headaches. Don't use the neck of a hide don't use the belly of the hide sometimes the flesh side will have blood veins showing it indicates a loose top grain in some instances. The best hides are finished on top and back side of the hide and they are split to a specific thickness 6 to 8, 9, 10 or 12 ounce and so own. If you don't want crappy projects don't use crappy leather.

Holly mackerel a 32" monitor is terrific!!!!!!!!!!!!! I can see details of an object I never imagined.

This is the only guy that I know that might have what you are looking for. Landis sales 217 543 3464.

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?22249-Scandi-Sheaths-My-Way. This should halp!!!!!!!!!

This might be what you are looking for. http://www.sewingmanuals.com/Sewing_Machine_Manuals/Pfaff_Industrial.htm

Plough gauges are not cheap. I have seen them sell for 3 or 4 hundred US dollars. I can't imagine what it would sell for in Euros.

You need to change the type of material you are making the project out of. Find a natural finish leather. This should solve your problem.

Michael, you have answered your own question "I do not have enough room for a separate machine table." I don't know of a better machine for the hobbyist. There are two versions of the Boss. The first edition is made of cast iron the new version is made of aluminum. If I were going to buy one of the machines I would get a used cast iron with the bench and table and with any accessories that comes with the machine. I can't recall what Tippman charges to rebuild one of their machines I think it around a 100 so I wouldn't worry about one being wore out, that is if you decide to get a used machine. Good luck to ya'.

Ya' know it is against the law to seal. You made a very good find. This is a lap skiver.

There is no need to dye with the blue if you want black, black. Use Fiebings USMC black. You will then have black, black.

The belt is made 8-9 inches longer than the size required for the belt. An example a size 40 belt requires a piece of leather 49 inches long or 48 if you want the snaps/rivets closer together. These snaps or rivets would hold the belt loope. A far as figuring the center of the name on the belt first you need to find the center of the name the center of the belt is 1/2 the length. I borrowed a picture from another post to show the correct measurement of the belt size. The belt size is determined by the size of the pants the lady or gentleman wears. If they wear a size 38 pants they would wear the next size in a belt that would be a size 40, etc. I hope that did not confuse the matter.

It all depends what part of the world you are in if you can resell it and find a buyer for it. Most of these were made around 1890 to 1920 or so. Parts are no longer made. The machine needles are available in two sizes 250 and 300. If you can find them. Schmetz stopped making them 2 years ago they are bigger than the 794 needle in diameter and length. This machine is made for harness making. It has a wax pot below the shuttle and needle it is feed through a side attachment. Does it have the side peddles on it with a hand crank on the right side? They weigh around 300 + pounds with the peddles and correct table attached. I have seen them sell for 150.00 at Weavers auction in June and sometimes they don't sell at all.

https://usa-dealer.3dcartstores.com/SINGER-45K76-CYLINDER-WITH-PLATE-SEWING-MACHINE_p_1094.html I don't think this machine is what you are looking for to sew leather.