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If you use chrome tanned leather be aware that it will tarnish the hardware you use on the material. Vegetable tan would work better 4 or 5 ounce should be about right for the thickness

Is this material nylon? If it is you should burn a hole through it instead of cutting a hole. Your rivets appear to be to long, what are you using for backing when you set the rivet? I use a 16 ounce ball peen hammer and a small piece of 3/4" flat steel 3x6 my rivets don't come loose with this setup.

You are going to end up with a 500 disappointment. It will work for the thinner material say 2 pieces of 5 or 6 ounce stacked up. I don't think the presser foot lifts much beyond 3/8 inch maybe 1/2, this is not enough to sew holsters with. The speed reducer would be needed for the thinner material also. I make my own with two pulleys one is 2 inch and the other is 9 inch. Make sure there is clearance between the pulleys so the belts don't rub the pulley. I drill through both pulleys with two 1/8 or 5/32 holes at 180 degrees apart and put a roll pin in them to lock them in place. A piece of 3/8 inch flat stock bent to a right angle with a 2 1/2 inch X 3/4 inch to mount the pulleys on. The flat stock needs to be around 12 or 14 inches inches (watch the radius of your 9" pulley) with a 2 1/2 inch bend on the short side. The 3/4" bolt fits to the long side about 1 1/2" from the bottom of the other side. Weld it in place after you get the hole drilled. If there is enough room on the flange of the pulley you might want to install a grease fitting too. Good luck.

The older machines are cast iron. Not steel. They are better than the newer aluminum frames in mho. Do you have a sharpening stone?? If you do put a leather point on the round point needle.

It looks like a wooden coat rack that someone turned into a foot operated vice. More than likely home made.

It is not necessary to deglaze the leather, you are removing the tannery finish when you do that. Stop putting oil on the belt it is changing the color to an almost black. I use the Febings Professional Dye and not the oil dye. Keep doing the edge finish. You need a bottle of Resolene to finish the belt with it seals the belt keeping in the bye and keeping out the water. If you use the Resolene do not use the spray stuff. The Resolene is the last step in making the belt. I hope this will help.

http://www.brettunsvillage.com/trunks/. these folks have the smaller pieces you want. 9 ounce material is what u are looking for.

I found a 231k for sale in Bramton. It is a walking foot with 20mm under the foot. It looks as though it will sew 3/8 inch very easily. Take a piece of material that you are going to sew and go try the machine out if it isn't to far

You might try Triple C Leather Morgantown, Ky. They have white in chrome tan I have about 2 or 3 sq foot piece. triplecleather.com

There are single phase clicker presses out there. Just keep an eye out for them USM is a good choice. Watch for auctions at Weaver Leather usually in June. I bought one five or six years ago at Church Town, Pa. at a Moses Schmucker auction. These things are heavy they weigh around a ton. The phase converters cost around 300. There was one for sale in the Leatherworker for sale stuff, but I think it is sold. There are lots of folks that make the steel rule clicker die. Weaver does not have a monopoly of making them. There is an Amishman in northern new york that makes them he does a very good job. He made one for me last spring for the 1911. They are in fact very handy to have. Your product is in your hand in a very short time and you can then begin to finish it.

Maybe this will help http://www.genuineostrichhides.com/snakeskins.html?gclid=CNXA2

I use 4 ounce Herman Oak to line some of the bridles and halters I make.

You should check Ebay. There is a guy in there with garment leather you are looking for. "loadsofleather" is his store name. He is located in Scarsdale, NY

the splitter is no longer for sale.

I don't know if this is still available; http://southbend.craigslist.org/hsh/1912084957.html

Hi Tom, this machine will not sew with 207 thread in the bobbin. The largest thread in the bobbin is 92. You should be able to sew 138 on top. The 138 will not work in the bobbin either. The needle has to have the diamond point or knife point in order to sew the leather with ease. Your machine will sew 3/8 inch material too. The link below should help a bunch. . http://www.universalsewing.com/images/catalogs/grozbeck/english/gbsew15.pdf

I have for sale a USMC Model M 8" Sole Splitter. I was going to rebuild it completely but I gave up on the idea my shop is not that big. I did manage to install a new drive shaft and new bushings but it needs more parts. It needs a new blade (Pilgrim Shoe has blades) one of the lower gear covers is missing, the blade hold down bolts are missing too. Plus the thumb screws that adjust the blade forward and back and the upper tapered piece (this is a ramp that the leather exits the blade on) I made two parts that were missing. There is an ear that has been welded it does not affect the function of the machine the ear helps to holds the material exit ramp. This thing weighs 280 pounds without a skid or crate. Pickup would be an option. I would like 300.00 for it if you need it shipped (truck freight) that will be extra. Pictures are available on request. Thanks my home phone is 814 848 7999.

I don't know where you live but you might be interested in this machine on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/...Sewing_Machines This machine is around 7 years old it was made in Germany before they went to China. They are not bullet proof but they are very close to being so. It will sew the 3 layers of material with no problem. From the looks of the Techsew machine it is a generic machine made in China that some manufacturers put their name on as a matter of fact it looks a great deal like my Ferdco 440 minus the access panels. Good luck on you new business venture.

I don;'t know if this will help or not. http://www.artisansew.com/manualsfiles/TORO%203000%204000%20CURRENT%20Instruction%20and%20Spare%20Parts%20Manuals%20May%202008.pdf

Yes, the cutting board should be Poly Board the red stuff. Don't operate the press over 30,000 when cutting with a clicker die. Don't let the press go much past 1/8th inch beyond the thickness of the material. See if your husband can rig up a couple of micro switches to stop the travel of the press. It is a good start for a clicker press. I hope this helped. Success is not an accident it is an effort.

Get yourself a one inch thick Polly board made of the red material. The clicker die will work well below 30,000 psi. You need to watch the depth of travel. That would be the same as watching the material thickness you are cutting. Once the die contacts the material don't go to far beyond the thickness of the material. You will end up cutting your backing board in two. Hope this helped. It looks like a good one. Have your husband rig up a micro switch or two to stop the plunger within range or your material thickness. I don't know how fast the plunger is you will have to figure that out as to when the micro switches will shut off the power.

You are in need of a Landis #1 or a Perason #6 harness machine. Both will handle the Number 7 cord and below with no problem.

Hello, I have posted a request for this machine 2 times. What is going on??