busted

I would use the #9 or #12 copper burr but that is my opinion. You can use what ever you want to or what ever the customer dictates.

Hanson is a very good company to deal with I buy rivets from them when needed. As far as using tubular rivets to put a harness set together with; I would never do that but that is up to you.

This machine will sew anything you put under the pressure foot as long as it is not over 3/8". It is an industrial sewing machine. I had one of these and loved it.

PM me with your address

That isn't an off set it's a bent snap post. Your problem is the tool that you are setting the snap with. You need to remove the outside edge off of your setting tool. Do you see the raised edge of the tool? That is the part that rolls the end of the post over file that flat don't mess with the little hump in the middle of the tool. That should solve the problem. The real problem is the snap it's self the hole that the post goes through is a hair to large when you set the snap with the tool it is not rolling the end of the post out far enough to lock the two pieces together. Quality control at the manufactures end would solve this issue I was having the same problem and I stopped using the snaps and started using Chicago screws. PS: I don't think the new tool you ordered will solve your problem.

It will sew around 3/4" to 7/8" material. They cost around 2300 with all the tax and shipping and what ever else you might need.

Hey Wizcrafts, there is a 47w66 on ebay for sale in Texas. Would this do for what he wants?

This is the type of machine you need, to do what you want to sew. Single needle lock stitch Cylinder Arm Walking Foot w/large shuttle hook and reverse. This machine is complete with Special Pedestal stand with 3" Dual Locking Casters, 3/4 HP 110V Servo Motor, w/50mm Pulley and Speed Reducer enabling the machine to punch through the hardest materials and for the slowest speed possible. Comes w/3 sets of Feet and Roller guide. 800 RPM Max Speed, 11mm Max Stitch Length 793 & 794 Needle System 5 cord Max Sewing Thread

I like dog collars they sell very good. I have sold about 120 in the last 3 or 4 weeks all of my collars are 1 inch wide 10 ounce material that I have leftover from belts and tack. You do not need to measure the dog's neck. All I do to my collars is make the strap 3 inches longer than the size I want it to be. An 18 inch collar will be 21 inch blank, etc. Next I measure up from either end 2 1/2" to 3 inches to the first hole (1 inch spacing with 6 or 7 holes for this size collar) and from this end I measure to the center of the buckle 18 inches. This is the 18 inch collar. I make all of my collars in this way. I use tubular rivets turned upside down so the splash is seen from the good side of the collar (will not pull hair to bad) and naturally I put a Dee ring just below the roller nose buckle. All of the commercial collars I have measured are layed out like I have tried to explain here. I make a set of 20 collars 4 colors with 5 sizes ranging from 18" to 26" chocolate, burgundy, russet and black. All I do is edge them no dyed edge.

The dimensions are in the pdf file you don't need any ink. The dark gray boxes are one inch square the light grey boxes in side the dark grey box is .25 inch. The main body is thirty six inches long with one inch slots spaced one inch apart. it is three inches wide and tapers to two inches about ten inches from the end of the strap. The adjustment is one inch wide with a two inch by inch and one half. You should be able to figure the rest of it.

The first thing you need to so is buy struck through leather not Herman Oak natural. You are wasting time and money on the bye and on the material. Good luck

Bruce is right, Weaver Leather sells them. The one you are looking at is a single edge beveler they are around 3 or 4 hundred. The 4 edge's at once cost around 800 when all is said and done both are manually operated. You will need to setup an account with Weavers with a tax number they do not sell to the general public since they got bought out 2 or 3 years ago. Good luck.

If I were you I would go to a local welding supply shop and find some 1/8" brazing rod without white flux on it; it is made with a white flux coating on it too. Good luck.

It appears to be a copy off of the Singer 45. If it is it does not have a walking foot, it is single feed only from the bottom it should sew about .50" and last but not least it will mess up the bottom of the project your are making. The feed dogs are very aggressive. Wizcraft has a cure for this short coming on an other wise very nice machines. Find some of the stuff you dip tool handles in to insulate them and provide a gripping surface. Dip the feed dogs in this stuff it will help with the scuffing on the bottom of your project.

The Janome is not a heavy duty sewing machine to do leather with. You Need To look in Leather Sewing Machines on the front page of this website and read the article by Wizcrafts

I can not be completely sure but I would look for worn out equipment. Parts for the Champion are almost nonexistent even with a spare parts machine. The 45k is not a leather sewing machine it has bottom feed only it will sew canvas really good, but not leather. The 29-4's can be from 50 to 350. I would not give anymore than that for one of them. The 8" Osborne should go for around 350 to 450 if the blade isn't worn out. The #3 should go for around 5 or 6 hundred. There are some folks that want 3 or 4 thousand dollars for one of these machines, personally I think they are nuts but it is their equipment. Keep in mind this is an Amish auction. They are not the most honest folks to deal with. Good luck.

I can't find the pictures

Don't buy a GA5-1 it is a knock off of the Singer 45 they are not a walking foot machine the lower feed dogs really mess up the bottom of your project. They will sew canvas and other heavy stuff like that but not leather.

I don't think you need a cobra 4 to sew purses. A good walking foot would do very good for you. Look for a Consew 206rb, Singer 111w155, Techsew 111-155 an Adler 167 something along those lines. My 2 cents.

This manual for the 1245 should help a little. www.mansew.com/​PFAFF/​PFAFF%​201245%20INSTRUCTION%​20MANUAL.pdf

What is stamped on the end of the size of the needle you are trying to replace? If all else fails drop the needle bar to the height of the new needle.

I wonder if anyone has ever explained to the EPA that cows don't and can't fart we are being lead by a bunch of morons

I have had this splitter for about 3 or 4 years it's blade is 5 1/4" of cutting surface. I made an extra blade for it but it needs to be finished sharpening. The original blade is in need of sharpening too. These four pictures are self explanatory. I made a new roller for it too. I think 80 dollars would be a good price. Thanks for looking.

This too is very nice looking piece. What is the thickness of the material? You do good work.

A thousand apologies to the fine Czeck Republic manufacturing capabilities.