Romey

So how about one that doesnt work

What Paul said. Time and materials are everything

so a simple button isnt possibe i take it,haha

How about a "VIEW YOUR POSTS" button, have it on other forums, allows you to keep track easily oh what ya said!

Its been used for sheaths countless times.. Have at it

Thanks Mike, Knifemaking is "just " a hobby for me as well

Make it hard, so you can control and maintain your edge geometry, assuming a flat secondary edge. And learn the grit comparisions of each compound. Decide if you want a toothier edge (leather ect) of a more polished edge,(paper cutting ect) 600 grit will leave a toothy edge above that will take those micro teeth out and make a more burnished edge. If you want simple, glue hard sole leather to a hardwood board, charge it with green compound on one end white or pink on the other. Green is roughly 600 grit, white roughly 2000 grit. For convex grinds like many head knives a slightly softer surface like a hard mouse pad or other neoprine, or a softer leather surface should be used as it will roll with the convexed grind. Often ill step down in grits Untill im using charged cigerette paper but thats for certian crazy sharp demonstrations and not suited for leather cutting needs.

On the consumer end ,well lets just say Im horseback hmmm ALOT,hehe . I hate rope cores for the reasons already given

Chucks Videos are top notch, shot very well and he is a outstanding leatherworker, historian and a super fella as is his wife.

Nuttin to it but to do it http://www.leatherworker.net/tipstricks.htm First one

I love antler for burnishing but I have a hell of a time keeping the deer calm when im doing it :angel_not:

The ice is great here, makes much better Crown and cokes. Women are scarce, will be raiding ireland soon for women if i can get a horse to stand a pontoon tied to it, will keep you all posted.

Up till a couple years ago I didnt stamp my knives or sheaths untill a very prominant collector emailed me saying my work was very good and had been mentioned amoung other collectors and the one main reason what turned them off was lack of makers mark. At the time I didnt think the elk cared when I was skinning him with but the point was taken , if your proud of your work MARK IT. Your fellow pears may beable to tell its your work but we arent in the buisness to impress peers as uch as the public that buys our work. After I started stamping I was amazed at the amount of customers who came saying they had seen my work and the mark, got online and looked it up wanting to purchase. It is to me anyway, a form of advertising AND pride. I have several marks, one for Knives, one for blacksmithing and one for bits and spurs which is simply my brand. Here is my knife logo. And what it looks like on steel, A custom forging hammer I make.

Very nice work on that fid

I moved to greenland, am raising cows on ice. just so Don doesnt feel so far away

I like the saddle Elwood, very nice stamping. One thing that may help you uploading photos in the future to the net is a good rule of thumb. 800x600 and 125k. I post alot of Knife pictures as to get the detail that are in them and yet be user friendly is that rule of thumb. Some say you can go down in further yet but Im not willing to lose details which will be significnt less when lower then 100 k. Still not completely dialup friendly but will help you in the future

I likes!

Looks very neo african

I am friends whose tutorial that belongs to. I made mine much from that tutorial but tweeked it some, one being I used carpet pad glued to the inside to contact the leather, binds tighter and leaves no impression on the leather from being held, thought id throw that out there. I also added a spring around the bolt for one handed opening and closing of the jaws which really makes like a third hand.

Clay, excellent tutorial I for one apprecaite it as im sure all do. Freak thats great my friend. I wish i had time to learn to carve and such but hot steel and horses call to me far more

Paul, welcome to the leather forum, for those that dont know of Mr. long his sheath work is amazing.

A latigo is a part on a saddle, latigo leather is what its made from

We make your leather

+1

Here is a decent cheap light box. The WHOLE key is lighting, your not so much trying to soften light but diffuse it. Type of bulbs and wattage make a HUGE differance, Get daylight bulbs or simply use natural sunlight, 11 am on clear day works best for me. If the thread goes farther I can mention f stop speed, white balancing ones camera ect and also why daylight bulbs(due to color spectrum) Knives are no question most difficult thing to photograph due to angles, severl dimensions of angles ect round and flat shapes. Use of reflectors take away alot of nasty shadows as well.