Romey

Thank you

Thank you all. Yes its hand stitched with linen thread. The sheath has a welt in it, this case a welt and a half as i needed slightly more room, its carefully skived. Generally i want no more welt then the thickness of the blade. Im not sure if im sold on the black edge kote yet. The leather is predye wickett and craig double shoulder and the absoloute only way to go in my opinion. This would be my "free with the knife sheath" though i did it butterfly style just cause i wanted to. The main thing i care is that it fits GOOD, can turn it upside down and shake it all day long and it wont fall out but your thumb and forfinger can pull it easily out. Anyway its just oil finished after that, had zero sun out the day i oiled it or i would have gotten better color out of it but its Montana in october, lucky it comes out at all.

Latest knife and sheath for a professional hunter in Texas. Knife is High carbon steel, wrought iron fittings and mesquite burl handle. Sheath is butterfly style pouch Knife pic Knife pic 2

I bit of advice and will make all the differance in the world, sharpen EVERYTHING even utility knife blades, run them down ceramic sticks or hard strop what have you. I have clicker knife and several other types of cutters but since i started a light hone on utility blades went back to them and for me it works best. A utility blade at best is looks to be a 120 or possible 220 finish on the edge, lil smoothing (honing) and they cut WAY better

Welcome!

I thought this was pretty funny, pretty darn true too How to post on a forum

+1

Lets be clear for those who maybe dont understand what you were doing, It took me a thinking before i fugured it out, your stropping JUST to see the edge angle then going on through the grits and i assume back to the strop for final polishing. I just wanted to make it clear for everyone stropping is used AFTER any honing. From the posts I read so often of PPL sharpening headknives, to have to go to a 400 or even 600 grit to bring back a edge means its some seriously poor heat treated steel. Once the angle is set one shouldnt have to do much more then stropping for a LONG time before ever needing the edge reshaped. I could see 800 maybe, 1000 grit more probable but to have to go clear back to 4 or 600 grit, yikes thats serious edge deformation to need that.

One can easily make a bobbin winder with a old sewing machine motor

Before i say anymore I want to see pictures.

But it DID get the rust off! If you need any help with the set up let me know maybe i can find some pictures.

supurb!

Some people use squeeze chutes some like myself rope and drag to the fire

HEAVEN!!

Very nice bull wacker, I hear ya on the profit. When ever i hear someone complain at price of my knives I laugh to myself cause Im getting right at 7$ a hour and thats at my premium! I have been around alot of good crackers, one ranch I cowboyed for everyone but myself used blacksnakes. You aint seen nothing till you seen what happens when 10 or so riders start cracking snakes at 1500 head of ringy yearlings!! I just kinda hung back one cause i was on a broncy colt andsorta thought to myself "wow this is a hell of a wreck"

Kate that Tutoial should be pinned here for future folks it was excellent. I did not realize that tool was mean for 2 sides,making the serpentine!! I dont know much so its not suprising to most! Thank you for that. And thank you Steve for posting your work!

That there would look good one one of my Telecasters, shoot me a PM. Just dawned on me, I used to date a gal from Ada! I do like rich barrel racers i do, i really do

BTW, B.O.,PUUU Regis is corret, Museums have used this for a long time for cleaning artifacts

Ok now if THAT dont work here is another way. I was waiting to see pics of the tool and parts before saying much but here it is. Electrolysis, A plastic tub; iron electrode (REBAR) or steel bar, water,Sodium Carbonate (Arm and Hammer LAUNDRY soda if you were wondering),battery charger and some way to suspend the object (chain or wire). About a half cup to 5 gallon of water (well mixed). The iron or stainless electrode is connected to the positive (red) terminal. The object being cleaned, to the negative(black). Submerge the object, making sure you have good contact. DO NOT GET IT BACKWARDS UNLESS YOU WANT YOUR ITEM TO DISAPPEAR!! Make connections on a part of your electrode that protrudes out of the solution. The electrodes must not touch the part.Depending on the amount of rust, a few hours to over night is needed. Then depending on the objest a brillo pad or somthing under running water maybe needed for clean up. As soon as you turn it on you should see bubbles coming from the part being unrusted. This is pretty safe but unless you liked the film of the Hindenburg going down dont get flame near it. Hydrogen tends to burn. I say that as i have had this set up and running 20 ft from a lit coal forge. I still wouldnt stand over it with a cigerette in my hand if I smoked or a BBQ steak right next to it. That is ONE way and the very best way to get the cleanest steel but there are a few other tricks . Soaking in vinegar over night is one. Vinegar is a very mild and yet very effective acid the down side is that it will look pickled afterwards so a bit of simichrome or flitz will be needed to bring it shiney again. Before I do ANY of this i go to the wire wheel first, sandblaster second, if its horrid bad or a very large peice as can happen around a blacksmith shop, Electrolysis it is. If infact none of that works find your dumbest friend do to what I suggested in the above post. Electrolysis can be done in as small as a gallon of soloution for small parts to a hundred gallons for big peices, for instance like a iron gate.

Hold the item in your mouth, clamp positive clamp to your left big toe and negetive to your right thumb while holding a 10 ft copper rod in left hand in a lightening storm, turn charger to trickle and wait, will blow the rust right off!!

Man I really like that "vintage " fender basket stamped strap!!!

Even highly rusted tools can be salvaged, ID say right up tothe point of metal fatigue BUT to o so may you maybe fatigued. I can even show you how to rig a battery charger to make a very simple highly effective heavy rust remover.

Nice Package!

Welp its official, greanland isnt green at all

I like the new one, very clean good job