terrymac

3M is about the best, although I got a roll a couple of months ago that didn't stick real well. Got a new roll and it is fine. Terry

Bruce, I would be willing to bet there is not a whole lot of sorting at the packing plant. I don't know if you have spent any time on a kill floor, but cattle are skinned in a matter of seconds. It is literally pulled off the carcas and spun into about a 6" roll. Those plants are processing thousands of cattle a day, and I would bet they have an arrangement with someone to take all the hides and process somewhere else. It is quite a process to see. Not something I would want to do on a daily basis. Terry

About the only way I can think of is using a Dremel with a fine sanding drum and sanding away the paint. Problem is going to be is how rough the surface is after sanding. If you could figure out how to "slick' the surface, it may work. I'm afraid you may be the owner of a belt you can't use. Sorry, Terry

I haven't done any filigree work in a long time, but when I did I just used a small single prong chiesel. Go to You Tube and put in filigree belt, and there is a guy who has several videos , and he is using some kind of small, motorized cutter. I have never seen one before, but if a person was doing a lot of this kind of work, it might be worth looking into. This guy is the fastest tooler I have ever seen. You will really like the Quik Slik over the gum tag, I promise. Terry

Colby, maybe one tip that might help is using Quik Slik from Sheridan Leather on the edges.. This stuff takes dye better than anything I have ever used. I have used saddle soap for ever and usually had to put two or three coats of dye for good coverage. This stuff, one coat and you are good to go. What type of metallice dye are you using? Terry

Thanks Colby. I haven't seen a belt like that in years. Is this the new fashion? Terry

Boys, I am lost!! What are doing when you are "buffing" dye? I always thought buffing was going over a dried area and removing any loose dye particles, but you are talking about something different. I am really curious what you are doing. Naver too late for an old horse to learn new tricks. Thanks, Terry

I guess there is more than one way to skin a cat in that I finished the tooled area first and then the edges. I do it primarily because I use Neatlac and Fiebing's Antique paste on everything, and I manage to get the paste everywhere. By finishing the edges last, I can come back and sand the edges and end up with a clean edge. I don't think I could do this in any other sequence. Again, it just depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Terry

Not sure exactly what you are wanting to do? Finishing the tooled part of the belt is a totally separate process from finishing the edges. Are you just wanting to dye the background and leave the rest natural, or are you wanting to apply a resist and an antique? You don't want to apply anything to the leather (except perhaps oil) before you dye. If you let the dye dry completely, there should be no problem with it getting on the rest of the leather. if you are just dying the background, I really don't know why you need to buff at all. For finishing the edges, look at the thread on "Finish Edges" posted by Hidepounder in the "How do I Do It" section. There is no better advice anywhere on obtaining the right of edge. Let us know more specficially what you are trying to accomplish. Hope this helps, Terry

You almost need a narrow beveler. I am not familiar with the widths on the ones you are using, but my smallest is 1/8" in width, and I am fixing to get one that is 1/16" The other alternative is to go with a round beveler as offered by Barry King. You are right it is really hard to bevel tight coners with a beveler that is too large. Terry

Firstt thing I would suggest is getting a sharpening guide from Tandy to make sure you maintain the correct angle on both sides. Sharpening stones will work, you just a fine grit to finish off with. A piece of cardstock works great with compound for stropping as it will not tend to roll the edge over as can happen with soft leather. If the blade is really messed up, you maybe money ahead and purchasing a new blade. If you get one from Tandy, I promise you will need some time sharpening it as it will not come anywhere close to being sharp enough. Hope this helps Terry

Can't answer about Resolene or Super Sheen. I am old school and use Neatlac exclusively, now available as Clearlac or Wyosheen. This is the old time proven method, and if you want to see how it looks, check out some recent postings by either Hidepounder or Leatherrookie. Clearlac is available thru Springfield Leather and Wyosheen thru Sheridan Leather. Both are advertisers on this forum. Terry

Are you applying a "resist" to the leather before the antique? It is awfully difficult to apply antique to a naked piece of leather, and get an even look. The other thing that might help is to use wool rather than a rag. You can get down in the cracks and other places a whole lot better. I used a rag for years, finally wised up and went to wool skin. You need to rub the antique on in a circular motion, and rub it off. Get you some thin rubber gloves because there is no way of applying or removing without getting it all over you. Hope this helps, Terry

Go to the "How do I do That" section of the forum and read the tutorial by Hidepounder on finishing edges. Bob is the master of producing incredible edges, and if you will do as he instructs, it works. The only thing I do differently is I have recently started using a product called "Quik Slik" available from Sheridan Leather instead of the combination of glycerine and saddle soap. I really like this stuff. Sheridan Leather is an advertiser on this website. After your edge is smoothed and slicked, use a spirit dye and your edge will not be wearning off. Putting on a good edge is a lot of work, there are no short cuts. Hope this helps, Terry

Ed, have you changed head material, or is it the same that is in my Bob Beard special in just a different color? Great to see you back in business!!! Terry

Beautiful work Wayne. Have a question for you, how dry did you let your antique get before applying Tankote, and how much more color did you get off with the Tankote? Terry

One additional suggestion is to study what others are doing and how they do it. When Hidepounder or Leatherworker post something, really look at what they are doing. If you can, purchase the "Sheridan Style Carving" book (available at Tandy) not because you may not be interested in this style, but you can really study what the masters accomplish. You can see what a background area should look like and how decorative cuts feather at the end. There is also a section on how to use different tools that can be applied to any style. Mainly, just study the finished work, it is amazing. Good luck and did I mention, practice. Terry

After using a rawhide mallet for 40+ years, I asked the same question. I finally decided there must be a reason all of these people are using so I ordered a Bearman maul, and now I know why. It is hard to explain, it just seems I have more control and better feel of what my tools are doing. Unfortunately Bearman has retired from the maul building business, but his son continues making the same maul his dad did. I can't remember what name he uses on this foorum. Barry King also makes a maul and he is an advertiser on this forum. Terry

Thanks Bruce. I looked at Springfield Leather, but I guess I missed it. Terry

If you think leather is high now, give it a year and you will wish we had these prices again. With the major sell off off cattle numbers due to the drought in Texas and other places, cattle numbers are going to be way down. It is simply supply and demand. Less cattle, more people means increased prices. Good news is the rains will return, ranchers will restock, and hopefully prices will come back down. Terry

My experience with ceramic blades has not been good. If you really want a quality blade, contact Paul at Leather Wranglers. He puts out. IMHO, the finest blade on the market. If you are using a Tandy knife, let him know and he can adapt the blade to fit. They come sharp and ready to go to work. Hope this helps, Terry

Do like I did, store it on a shelf and let it collect dust. I have three or four bottles collecting dust. Terry

Neatlac is no longer sold by Tandy, but the same product known as "Clearlac" is sold by Springfield Leather or as "Wyosheen" sold by Sheridan Leather. Both are advertisers on this website. It is applied with a piece of woolskin, rubbing it in over the entire piece in light coats. The antique will still get in the cuts. Word of warning, don't use with the Ecoflo antiques or you will end up with some awful looking colors. Terry