terrymac

Get a copy of this years Tandy catalog and look at the front cover. It is a George Hurst oak leave pattern. I think you download the pattern from Tandy's website. Terry

Clay, If a Barry King #27 bargrounder will work in the pattern, I could do that along with the decorative swivel cuts. Terry

I am not sure what kind of backgrounding you are doing, but Barry King makes some awfully fine, small bargrounders if this style will work. I just bought a #27, 3 hole bargrounder that fits about any where. I'll bet Robert Beard also makes small backgrounders especially for figure carving. I will guarantee neither of these manufacturers use "junk metal" Hope this helps. Terry

Looks great, no mud puddles on this one. What kind og thread are you using? Terry

Hey gang, sounds like fun. Just don't ask me to draw the pattern. LOL Terry

Hidepounder says that after you have sanded your edges and edged them, take a damp rag and wet the edge, and then take a glycerin bar and rub over the damp area. This really starts laying the fibers down. Then he takes saddle soap on a piece of canvas (old Levis or Wranglers will substitute) and begin burnishing. If you don't have a burnishing wheel, then it will still work with good old fashion elbow grease. It is a lot of work, but well worth it. Hope this helps, Terry

Let us know how it tools. I have a couple of HO sides to finish with, and then will try the Tandy. It would be great to work with some leather that didn't have spots in it where you want to get out the skill saw to cut it with. The HO is nice, but there are some areas that are a real challenge. Terry

Ferg, Please share with us what you think of the single bends. They are also offiering double butts which I assume are from the same place in Europe. If they are top quality, may not be a bad deal. Thanks, Terry

Rick, Acrylic=plexiglass which can be bought at Lowe's, Home Depot. You can get different size pieces, but it is not hard to cut to the sizes you want. If you have ever cut shhet rock, it cuts the same way, score on one side and break. I don't know if I would go to the spray adhesive. You will eventually peel it off, and you don't want to stretch the leather doing it. You want it stuck, but not permanently. Terry

Rick, I do it as a matter of practice on everything. The thinner the leather, the more it can distort. I use 3M packing tape as it is all I have found that will stay stuck when the leather is wet. Needs to be applied prior to wetting leather. On something like a wallet, I stick on the packing tape and then use rubber cement and stick to a piece of acrylic. The packing tape nor the rubber cement will affect the depth or distinction of your tooling, Nothing is more aggravating than tooling something and ending up with a bulge somewhere. Doesn't happen with the above. I just finished a belt that had two layers of packing tape, and no distortions anywhere. Kind of hard to glue something like a belt. Hope this helps Terry

Ray, I can't ever imagine this maul coming apart. I don't think the head is screwed on to the handle, rather the whole thing is being held together by a full length bolt. I promise you won;t be sorry if you get yourself one. Terry

A few months ago, I posted a thread asking what was the advantage of a maul vs. a mallet, especially for someone who had used a rawhide mallet for 40+ years. Well, Santa Claus brought me a 16 oz. "Bob Beard Special Maul" made by Ed the Bearman, and now I know. Since this is the first maul I have ever used, I can't compare it to other makes, but I don't see how any could be any better. It is a beautiful tool, and the balance and control are outstanding. Thanks Ed, you did good!!!! Terry

Oil before using Neatlac. I have not used the spray version, but am a big fan of the pour on version which is no longer available under that name. You can buy the same product as "Clearlac" from Springfield Leather among other places. Usually when you see references to Neatlac, it is the pour on version people are referring to. From what I have heard the spray doesn't work near as well as the original. In any event, Neatlac will seal the pores in the leather affecting the ability to accept oil. Hope this helps. Terry

Make it five. Leather Wrangler!!! Merry Xmas Terry

Steve, Just have a question concerning the physical properties of the hide. If somebody doesn't find that bovine pretty soon after they have met their demise, they can blow up like a beach ball. I'm just curious if this affects the physical properties of the hide. It would seem logical that a good portion of the hide would have the characteristics of the belly. In my opinion if somebody is willing to pay for this kind of product, then while not sell it. We don't have to believe in their cause, just provide what they want. Thanks, Terry

and I thought tooling some Sheridan patterns was intricate. That is great, and I don't even like motorcycles. Terry

I'm with you Ferg. There have been many great carvers that have used antique on their pieces with spectaular results. If you will look in the Gallery in the "Sheridan Style Carving Book", you will see what I mean. I antique everything I do, and in my mind is so much prettier than plain leather. I guess different tastes is what makes the world go around. I have to also agree with Kate, you ain't no rookie. Great job Terry

Looks like the front, back, and flap are all one piece with gussets sewn in the side. I think the gusset is bowing out just enough to hide the stitches in the picture. Really don't think it will be all that hard to make. Terry

The detail is simply amazing. You should be proud. Terry

It is my experience that leather will become more supple after using an oil based dye. You are actually putting oil back into the leather. Have never used Angelus, so I can't tell you about it. If you want to do the edges right, go to the "How do I Do It" section of the Forum and find a thread by Hidepounder (Bob Park) on doing edges. If you will follow his advice, I'll guarantee they will come out professional. Terry

No, the Tandy Leather should have nothing to do with it. You mentioned Satin Sheen, and I was thinking of the Eco Flo product. It has just been my experience that using the darker antiques, I end up with an almost black in the cuts and tooled areas. Darker than I really prefer! Terry

It appears you are using spirit dye to obtain your coloring and just using the antique to highlight the cut and tooled areas. If this is the case, then I would be applying the Clearlac on top of the dye, and using a dark antique. Tan Kote will not resist the Clearlac, as it can be used as a thinner. I have used a medium brown color antique, and the cut areas were black. The problem with leaving the paste in the cuts, etc., is that it will come off eventually. I don't believe it will ever set as a paint. I have used the Tandy products in conjuction with the Fieblings and have never been happy with the results. From your pictures, it looks like you are getting a dark effect, but just want it darker. Terry

The Antique Paste should be wiped off right after you apply all over the leather. Once it has beem applied I don't believe leaving it on will change the color, but just make it harder to get off. It will remain in the tooled areas, but you should remove it as soon as you can. My experience has been that if left too long, it is really hard to get off. One of the tricks is to use a thin application of Clearlac (Neatlac) to seal the leather before antiquing. This is termed applying a "resist" to the leather. It seems to give a more uniform color. You don't want to use the spray on version of Neatlac. You jusst need to experiment and find the particular effect you want. Hope this helps, Terry

Springfield Leather handles Fieblings Antique Stain in six different colors, including black, in at least two different sizes. They also handle the Antique Paste. I am sure there are a number of other suppliers that handle as well. They are great to work with, and will ship anywhere. Not sure where you have been looking. Terry

Check out the "Biker and Motorcycle Gear" section in the Forum. There is a thread on Sealing Motorcycle seats, and it addresses some your questions, especially concerning the Eco Flo products. I gave up on them a long time ago. Terry