terrymac

If you are using Tandy awl blades, sharpen, sharpen, sharpen, and then sharpen some more. After you sharpen, then strop. I did the same thing, and found out it needs to be sharp. I'm not familiar with the four blade set, I just use the diamond awl blades. Just be sure to maintain the angles on the blade giving it its diamond profile. Terry

I've tried the chiesels and didn't like them becasue the holes are way too big. You need an overstitch wheel to mark you holes and then use an awl with a diamond blade. Al Stohlman has an excellent book on hand stitching that will really help. I don't believe your leather will get any weaker as long as you punch your holes diagonal and not horizontal. You can get a wheel from Tandy that has three different stitches per inch. Everything I do is 7 stitches per inch. I have read of the old masters stitching up to 17 stiches per inch, but that would be very difficult. Get the Stohlman book and it will answer most of your questions. Hope this helps, Terry

Again, thanks for all the help. As a side note, I have started using Bee's Natural Saddle Oil. I used neatsfoot oil, but I wasn't happy with darkening affect I was getting. One time I tried extra virgin olive oil, and again was not pleased. I had read somewhere that the Bee's product would not darken, and they were right. If anything, it seems to give the leather sort of golden hue. I really like the way it works. Thanks, Terry

Thanks for the help!! I am also assuming this would be done prior to adding any oil. One more quick question, are you buying crystals or can you get in a premixed liquid? Terry

Have a couple of question for those of you that use oxalic acid prior to dying or antiquing. How much do you apply to the leather, ie, how wet do you get your leather? My comcern would be any affect on your tool burnishing if you used too much. Also, what are you using to apply to the leather? Any help would be greatly appreciated Terry

Like father, like son. Those are really nice. The more I use my brown maul, the more I appreciate what you have provided. That is one tool I will never have to worry about upgrading. One day may need a different weight. Terry

Just don't try using it as a resist for any of the Eco antiques. Makes some of the ugliest colors I have ever seen. Found out the hard way. I do agree it works fine as a sealer over the eco dyes. Terry

Here we go: 1. Hand Sewing Book and Craft Tech book, both written by Al Stohlman, and both available at Tandy. 2. A good quality round knife. I am currently using an old Osborne, and it works well, just have to keep it sharp. When I upgrade, it will be to the new knife being made by Leather Wrangler, but it is $250.00. There is a video on U Tube that Paul from Leather Wrangler has compiled demonstrating this new knife. 3. An awl haft (handle) and a diamond shaped awl blade. Both available at Tandys. If you want the best, that be the one sold by Bob Douglas in Sheridan Wyoming. Do a search on this website, and you can find his number, no email. 4. Swivel knife, already been over this one in earlier post. 5. A maul or rawhide mallet, don't buy the cheap wooden mallet. This is one tool that I would go for the best, and that would be a brown maul made by Ed the Bearman. It will be around a $100.00, but it is well worth it, and will last you a lifetime. I believe there is a current thread in this section of the forum by Ed showing some of his mauls. 6. For stamping tools, I would start out with Tandy or the Pro series sold by Hidecrater. After you read the book by Stohlman, you will have a better feel for what you will need and what each type accomplishes. 7. A good piece of marble or granite for a tooling surface. If you have any granite counter top manufacturers in your area, a sink cut out is good option, and many times are free. They usually throw them away.. 8. A good quality leather hole punch. The Pro series punch sold by Tandy shoud be pretty good. 9. Some jewelers rouge for stropping your swivel knife and round knife.. This should get you started and hope it helps, Terry

Your essential tool list is going to be totally dependent on what type of work you are wanting to get into. I f you could tell us what direction you are wanting to go, people can help a whole lot more. If you are wanting to do any floral tooling, a swivel knife will be on that list. I tooled for years with a Tandy knife and have upgraded to an SK3 from Leather Wrangler. The main difference is in the blade quality and the ability to hold an edge. Until you know if you are going to stay with this, and are serious, I wouldn't be buying the highest price to start out with. You can get a Tandy swivel knife for under $20.00 where a knife from Leather Wrangler is going to be over $125.00. Tandy has a lot of tools that helped thousands get started, and then you can upgrade as your skill level improves, and you have a better idea of where you are going. Hope this helps, Terry

I can't speak to the Tandy method, I just know I don't care for the Eco products. For me it is the old time practice of using Fiebings Antique Paste and Clearlac. After tooling and drying, rub a thin coat of Clearlac over the entire piece. I will usually follow up with a second coat after the first has dried. After this has dryed, rub the antique paste over the entire piece and then wipe it off, preferably with a piece of sheep's wool. Your back ground areas and cuts will retain some of the paste, giving the effect you want.. This method has been around for a long time, and there are some videos on U Tube demonstrating this method. Hope this helps, Terry

Kevin, Are you punching holes with a needle or an awl? I am using an awl blade, and it sticks a little, but I just hold my finger on the leather and it comes right out.. Can't really figure out why it is sticking so bad for you. Terry

Why don't you take up Siegel on his offer? You have nothing to lose, and may end up with some satisfaction. Better late than never. Terry

Steven, I don,t know you nor have I had any dealings with your company, but I want to commend you for taking "ownership" of your problems, and resolving them to the best of your ability. I was in business for a long time, and regardless what my employees or representatives did , the buck stopped with me. It was then up to me to make sure it didn't happen again, even if it meant removing people, or doing whatever was necessary. It appears that is your direction, and I really don't know what else you can do to make amends for the past. The true test comes in assuring it doesn't happen in the future. Good luck! Terry

Good kind of people !!!!! Terry

I take it step further and remove the awl chuck from the handle, and insert the rod end of the awl chuck in the drill press. This way your awl bladed is always straight. I have a Tandy awl handle and the chuck just pulled out. My drill press has a laser pointer and it really speeds up lining up on the spacing marks. Terry

I don't believe I have ever seen leather that is smooth on both sides. Leather normally has two sides, the grain side which is smooth, and the flesh side which is rough. Probably what you are seeing are two pieces joined together and the edge is then finished. If an edge is finished properly, it is almost impossible to tell it is two pieces. To see how to finish edges, go to the the tutorial by Hidepounder on finishing edges. It is in this section of the Forum. As you look at his edge, you would swear it is one piece. Hope this helps, Terry

I am not familiar with Hidecrafter tools, but I will bet the bevelers you want are in the "Sheridan Collection" Sheridan type bevelers have a much steeper angle than traditional bevelers. When doing Sheridan style carving, so many of the lines flow close together, you have to use a steeper angle to keep from laying down so much surrounding leather. I personally am using Barry King bevelers, and have totally satisfied with their effect. Another tool you might look at is the leaf liner also made by Barry King. It is used on the either side of the stem in the leaf giving a lined impression. I use mine after I have first beveled. Terry

I'll guarantee that if you will follow Bob Park's method, you will get the edge you want. Terry

3M packing tape works well and leaves no residue on the leather. If you are going to be doing some heavy tooling, ie, basketweave, I would glue the leather to a piece of acrylic such as plexiglass after you have put the tape on the leather. The glue is on the tape, not the leather. I would not think cardboard would work at all with leather that has been cased, or is to be cased. Moisture and cardboard don't mix to well. Terry

Welcome neighbor. You wiill be amazed at what you can learn here. Which of the Tandy stores do you do business with? Terry

I know this is probably against all the rules, but I am using a drill press and my awl. I removed the awl chuck out of the handle, and just inseted the rod into the drill press. I then just use the handle on the drill press to do the stabbing. You can set up a jig to maintain the proper line and distance from the edge, and if you happen to have a laser sight on your press, it really makes hitting your stitch wheel marks a lot easier. I struggled with keeping my awl perfectly straigh, and the front would look great until you turned the piece over and the stitches really wandered. I had finally gotten pretty proficient at keeping it straight, but this makes it almost fool proof. To me, this is a much better option than drilling the holes. Just an idea that works for me. Terry

Steve, Thanks for responding. That is what I kind of figured but wasn't sure Terry

I have a question for someone with more smarts than me. Is there anything inherently dangerous or harmful in vegtan leather?? There is alot of this stuff that ends up in guidelines or regulations that make someone feel good, but in reality don't accomplish a whole lot of benefit except giving someone a marketing angle that ends up costing us more money. Just wondering. Terry

Thanks Kate, worked like a charm. Terry

Steve, Maybe it is my computer, but I couldn't get either link to open? Terry