terrymac

Travis, Get some 3M packing tape, it works well. After putting on the back of the leather, rubber glue the tape to a piece of plexiglass. The plexiglass is hard enough, that when used on your stone, it is hard enough to have good tool impressions and burnishing. You can get the plexiglass at Lowe's or Home Depot, and it is not very expensive and cuts fairly easy. Cuts the same way drywall does. If you can find at least 1/4", the better. The lighter can still bend upwards, but the leather is not stretching. Hope this helps, Terry

Is this type maul going to be for sale, or was this a one of a kind? Thanks , Terry

Amanda, I would suggest you visit your local Tandy Store, if that is not possible, go on line and check out their resources. In my opinion they have the best selection of basic instructional material all the way from the basics to how to make saddles. They are also a good resource for entry level tools, etc. Al Stohlman wrote a number of books 40 to 50 years ago that are as applicable today as they were then. Hope this helps, Terry

Kate, You can't get Neatlac per se, but you can get the same product now called Clearlac. Bobby Parks spoke with the manufacturer, and they assured him it was the same product, different name. I think Springifield Leather is handling it as well as Panhandle Leather in Amarillo. I am just about out of Neatlac and will get getting some Clearlac shortly. Terry

The biggest difference is in the way the EcoFlo interacts with other liquids. When I finish tooling a piece, I like to apply Neatsfoot Oil to get some moisture back in the leather. When you do that with EcoFlo, the stain does not penetrate the leather as well as the Fieblings. I also like to use a resist before applying the antique, and I found out you cannot use Neatlac with the EcoFlo. You get some some awfully funny colors. I have found out , however, in spite of what they will tell you at Tandy's, you can use Neatlac as a finish over the EcoFlo with no problems. I guess my biggest problem I have with the EcoFlo is time you have to apply and work into the leather. The Fieblings is much more forgiving, especially when you are working with a larger piece. To me, the EcoFlo is much faster drying, and it makes it harder to blend different areas together without getting dark areas. I see a lot of good work shown on LW using the EcoFlo, I'm just comfortable with the way Fieblings work, and have no profound reason to change. Can't help you the Super Sheen. Hope this helps Terry

Indy, They are the same in that they both have "Antique" in their name, but not as far as product charachteristics. As someone who messed up some things with the Eco-Flo, I would find me another Fieblings' supplier. The Eco Flo is probably fine if you take the time to learn how to use it correctly, but I will stick with the Fieblings. JUst my opinion Terry

.Duke, If you are using an alcohol based dye, you might try adding some Neatsfoot oil prior to dying. The only pro dye I have used is Fieblings and it is oil based. I am a die hard user of Neatlac as a finish. I've tried a bunch of the others, and keep going back to Neatlac. Hard to beat. Terry

Ferg, I think you missed one little step, and that is to apply packing tape directly to the leather, and then apply the glue to the packing tape and stick to the plexiglass. 3M packing tape seems to work best. Terry

Rather than using poster board, get some plexiglass. You might also try using some 3M packing tape on the leather first, and then glue to the plexiglass. I have not had anything distort since I started doing this. You can get it at Lowe's-Home Depot, and is easy to cut different sizes. Hope this helps Terry

Marlon, How does linen stack against nylon in terms of strength. I am one of those using Tandy nylon, primarily because once I get it stitched, it isn't going anywhere. I understand what you are saying about the stretching and it makes sense. Is the linen comparable in diameters, or do you need diferent awls and needles? Thanks for the help. Terry

Mike, Something I have learned the hard way is not cut your stitching groove until after you have dyed or antiqied. The thread completely fills the groove so you don't see the natural underneath. I then finish with Neat Lac after all is done. Terry

I like your design, layout, and the double row stitching. The only thing I would suggest is go to the "How do I do This" section, and read Bob Park's (AKA Hidepounder) post on how to do edges. You will be able to see the difference in what his looks like and the difference in yours. Doing edges is a lot of work if you don't have the power tools, but it will certainly add to the quality of the finished product. Terry

I use a Leather Wrangler swivel knife and have been very pleased with the way it performs. It is light and is adjustable. If you would contact Paul at pabloz@leatherwrangler.com, I am sure he can give you all the information you need. I do know it is the sharpest blade I have ever used and holds an edge extremely well. Can't say much about the King knives, I have never used one. I do like his stamping tools. The Leather Wrangler knife is double the cost of what the Barry King is, but to me, it has been well worth the cost. Hope this helps Terry

Clear Lac is a clear finish that will do a pretty good job of closing pores, but not completely. Resolene and TanKote are two different products and I have not used any Resolene.. Go to the Fieblings' website and I believe both are there. Hope that helps.

The dye will not provide any protection against water! You need to apply another finish, and Tandy sells different varities depening on the type finish you want. A lot of saddle makers will finish with Neatlac or its replacement, Clearlac, and then put a coat of Tan Kote on. Leather with just a dye finish is just begging to be stained or water marked. Terry

The man is truly a genius!

I do things in the same order you do. I guess if you weren't putting a pattern on the belt, you could do it in the other order. There is no way to tool a piece of leather that has been finished, or at least I don't think so.

Thanks for the feedback. I would like to us a 1/4" border, but I have some sterlling silver letters that are 1", and a need just a small space above and below to look right. I'm also afraid it would cut the tooling pattern down to much. Your belts are very professional! Terry

I am fixing to tool a 1 1/2" belt that will be lined and hand sewn. It looks to me like the border needs to be at least 3/16" wide with the stitching right down the middle if you are going to have enough leather left on the outside of the belt to edge and not worry about stitches busting out the side in the future. Just curious as to what are other people doing as far as border width? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Terry

My only suggestion is that if you are going to be tooloing Sheridan style is to get a couple of thumprints from Barry King. You will surprised at the difference in appearance in using the slimmer tool. I tried a couple of the Tandy versions and they just aren't the same. Terry

The only thing I would add is that I have not personally had good results mixing Eco Flo products and Fieblings antique. I use Neat Lac as a resist and get a much better result. Neat Lac as such is no longer manufactured, but there is the same product being sold under different names. There are several threads on this subject. It is my understanding that Clear Lac is the same product as Neat Lac and is sold by Panhandle Leather in Amarillo among others. Hope this helps. Terry

Charles, I am no expert, but here is my sequence: 1. Tool 2. Dye (in my case, is normally background) 3. Apply neatsfoot oil and let set 24 hours. 4. Thin coat of resist if I am going to use Fiebing's antique paste. For a resist I use is Neat Lac, you would have to find a substitute product as Neat Lac does not exist anymore, but you can find the same product now called Clear Lac. This can be obtained as Panhandle Leather in Amarillo, Tx., and is also available under some other names. Let resist dry for 24 hours. 5. Apply antique and wipe off 6. Another coat of Neat Lac. One word of caution is I have learned the hard way is that Tandy's Eco product line and Neat Lac do not mix. Hope this helps Terry

Charles, I am no expert, but here is my sequence: 1.

Willy, If you will to the Tandy website, they will show you a list of all their tools along with a picture of the impression each tool makes. In looking at your pictures, the one essential tool would be a backgroung tool. There seems to me an extensive use of this type of tool. They have several different backgrounders. I am not sure what your friend sent you, but Tandy offers different packages of differnt tools, or you can buy them individually. The other suggestion I would offer is to order a book titled "Figure Carving" by Al Stohlman. It is a basic tutorial on figure carving, and the tools that are required and how to use them. Tandy has this book. You will have to find a dealer to buy from as Tandy is a wholesaler. Perhaps your friend in the states could help you. Hope this helps, Terry

Working with wet weather has several drawbacks: 1. Your knive cuts will never be crisp 2. You will never get any burnish or darkened effect from you tooling 3. The finished product will look like always have a soggy look 4. Tool imprints will never be crisp and sharp In other words, you really don't want to do it. Terry