terrymac

If you are really interested Sheridan style, I would strongly suggest you buy the "Sheridan Style Carving" book written by Bill Gardner and Clinton Faye. In my opinion, it is the definitive work on the subject and is available thru Tandys. All of your questions concerning tool selection are covered in great detail, and the reasoning behind each and how each tool is used. Most of the true Sheridan toolers used checkered bevelers because the impressions grab and hold onto antique paste which most of them utilized in their finishing. As Bob Park (Hidepounder) continually points out, Sheridan is not the same as what he calls western style. It is a unique style and the books does a great job of explaining the hows and the whys things are done. Hope this helps, Terry

Simply outstanding and beautiful. Your use of a bargrounder is as good as anyone I have seen. Terry

I am not real sure what you to are trying to accomplish, but I have never seen a resist that would handle dye. You might try a latex blocker that I have read about available at the hobby stores. The only resist I have ever used is Clearlac and was for resisting Fiebing's Antique Paste. I tried Tandy's resist once and threw it away. I don't use stains so I can't speak to that although I will bet the results would be the same. Hope this helps, Terry

Fiebings puts out a booklet on how to use their dyes. I think I have seen it in Tandy's Terry

Unless I am all wet, those needles mentioned above are for use with a sewing machine, not hand sewing. I have never heard of a right or left hand needle as it relates to hand sewing. Terry

Right hand or left hand twist in thread applies to sewing done by machine and what a particular machine requires. Should have no bearing on hand sewing. I have stitched a number of belts now using Tiger thread and the only problem I have had is when I stick a needle through it. The stuff is braided not twisted like you will get with the linen threads. Terry

The purpose of the stitch groover is to provide a channel for the thread to lie thus lowering the thread profile and making it less susceptible to abrasion. Why someone would say you can't utilize a groover and a pricking iron in conjunction with each other is beyond me. As Colt demonstrated with his pictures. the two work together fine with no affect on the angle of the stitching. After stitching, the channel disappears.<br />Terry

Check with Sheridan Leather. Bob Douglas has a complete set of vintage tools for sale, and states this collection is museum quality. They are not cheap, but may be what you are looking for. Terry

Just to let everyone know, Barry King is selling awl blades. I just received a 11/2" model and it is hands above the Vergez Blanchard I also recently acquired. Even after sharpening the Vergez awl on a 8000 grit diamond stone, it is not as sharp as the King model. I can't compare it to the Douglas awl as I have never tried one. Was going to order one, but didn't want to wait so went with the King blade, and glad I did. Everything I have ever bought from him has been excellent quality. You might also want to check several videos Nigel Armitage has on You Tube, as they are extremely helpful and full of information. He does most everything in 7spi, and highly recommends tiger Thread. I use the 1mm at 7 spi, and it looks great. King sells the awl haft as well does Ed the Bearman. He is member of this forum and makes the finest maul on the market. The Vergez awl comes with the blade permanently attached so would not be a candidate for a different blade. Hope this helps, Terry

Bob, The 555 works as well on a strop for swivel knifes. Knipper recommended using latigo rather than veg tan, and it certainly spreads smoother on the latigo. Do you think you have enough compound to last a while? Terry

Are the bundles of 1.5" belt strips still available? Also, what kind of lead time do you need to get Tiger Thread in different colors and sizes? Thanks, Terry

Todd, Sorry about that. When you mentioned it, I thought that was unusual as suppliers normally cover their shipping costs. The problem with this stuff is it has to ship ground via UPS rather than normal channels. They won't allow anything flammable in the air. Same thing when ordering spirit dyes or antique paste. You might try what Randy suggested. I've never tried what he suggested. I just know, even, with the shipping it will last for a long time, and when it is all said and done, the cost is small when you figure all the projects you will use it on. Terry

Todd, I, also, follow Bob Park's system except for using The Quick Slik rather that saddle soap and glycerine. NV is right about the old traditional manner of burnishing edges, I just get tired of rubbing and use something to speed up the process. Right now I am just using a piece of canvas to rub with, but am waiting for a new wood burnisher from the Ed the Bearman. I think the secret to any burnishing system is surface preparation. Terry

I believe Panhandle offers it at $15.00 for the same size, and I don't believe you will find a small container. I bought some Quik Slick some time ago. and even with the high shipping cost, was one of the best buys I ever made. It is a great product and lasts a long time, and you would not need the saddle soap nor glycerine. I would not be without it. Terry

I would try some Tiger Thread in either .8mm or 1.0 mm. If you are wanting linen, check out Fine Leather Works who has every size you could want. Terry

Dwight, I may be wrong, but Tandy offers the waxed nylon thread is available in brown and black in addition to the white. I'm assuming it is the same you are using. I recently sewed my first belt with Tiger thread, it is good stuff. It doesn't frizz out like I have found with the Tandy nylon & braided cord. Helps this helps. Terry

The best advice I can give you is to get rid of the neatsfoot oil and get some Bee's Natural Saddle Oil. It will not darken your leather, and if anything, will give it a golden tone. Good stuff. Terry

TXAG, Why don't you pick up your bag of marbles and go find another playground to play on. I agree with Pete. I have never seen one useful bit of info from you other than telling people they should use the search button rather than asking the question. Exchange of information is the whole idea on this forum, and intimidating some new person by implying they are some kind of dummy because they didn't search before they asked. You also really good at bad mouthing suppliers that a lot of use and will continue to do so in spite of you. I had a problem with Springfield not to long ago, but they took care of it. They are only human like the rest of us. Leatherworker Net is a great source of information and exchanging ideas. It was great way before you showed up and will continue to be long after you are gone. Terry

Jeremy, I've heard of using valve grinding compound for a strop, and may try some day. What you say about a strop vs a stone is right on except when you get a big ding in your blade. I dropped my round knife in the rocks the other day and I would have worn out a whole bunch of paper getting it back to where it is supposed to be. I am using a 8000 grit diamond stone for final sharpening. Terry

Terry, if you are out there, I have a couple of questions for you. I am fixing to order some "555" from Brownells. What side of the leather are you applying, and given its color, how do you know when to recharge your strop? I know with the stuff I am currently using turns totally black ,it is time for more. Thanks for the help, Terry

You might check out "fineleatherworking.com" They carry a number of Vergez-Blanchard tools and they have an awl that compliments their 9 stitches per inch pricking iron. I am guessing it must be fairly small to fit the pattern. It is only $19.00, it just might work. Terry

Just do not put on so thick. In fifty years of using this product, the only flaking I ever experienced was when I had put on too much at one time. From my own experience, Clearlac and some of the Ecoflow products simply do not work together. When Ecoflo was first introduced, I tried some and ended up with the ugliest colors I have ever seen. Threw the stuff away and have since stayed strictly with the traditional dyes.

The two pieces will meld together if you glue them with one of the old fashioned contact cements, ie., Barges, Masters, Weldwood. If done properly. it will be extremely hard to ever separate them. Go take a look at Bob Park's (Hidepounder) tutorial on Finishing Edges, and he does an excellent job at explaining how to finish edges, and how it appears to be single piece. In certain circumstances, people will use a "rolled edge" technique, and I believe there is also a tutorial on this subject. The key is to slick both pieces as one piece. Hope this helps, Terry

. I can't speak highly enough of my Bearman maul. Ed the Bearman is a member of this site and will fix you right up. He utilizes a special material and, and his workmanship is first class. A 16 oz. would be a good general size to use. Terry

You still got it Ed. Terry