JLSleather

I don't know if they still carry it, but the Tandy up the road had H.O. for a while, at $300 per side, and it was certainly the low end of the line (for perspective, HO "A" grade at teh tannery is about $200 per side). Kinda speaks to your original question though... maybe the name or where it's from isn't really the issue.

Welcome - glad to do it. See, this is how it's done... ya git a free pattern, then ya make the holster, then you either use the holster or sell it and pocket the money yerself. Then when ya come back to the forums, ya POST A PIC

That works! "cant keep up" is good .. long as it aint continuous, non-stop thing.

Yeah,like they say.. what's good for the leather maker is good for the holster maker ... er sumthin like that. But you keep talkin' bout fishin' and i aint never gonna git no work done Oh, wait... lemme guess... you spent the mornin' choppin' the front half off'n all yer pancake holster patterns!

Okay, finally git round to the double-mag pouch for that 45 SS 1911. Here ya have it. Oh, wait ... tha's that OTHER new one. Anyway, the mag pouch is comin' up shortly too.

You mean about makin' yer own patterns? Yall are welcome! Good to hear somebody is usin' that there stuff Know that feelin' where you find yerself in the kitchen, coffee cup in one hand, spoon in the other hand... thinkin' 'now what was I gonna do agin?'. That's the inspiration for that file -- so when I fergit what i was doin' I kin jus go read up on it

Sorry to hear that Mike. Little help maybe, but I just wanted to say THANKS for being ONE more person who still thinks. So much of the planet (and this forum) goes on about "customer service"... but some of us remember when 'customer service' meant giving you what you paid for... not a smile and a nice story when it's wrong. Don't "fix" it later.... give me what I paid for the FIRST time! You (and me) wouldn't buy a NEW car and then expect to have to "fix" it. I'm with you -- if you wanted to 'fix' and "work on" something, coulda just bought one used at half the cost. Particularly if the "warrranty" means we'll have 'nice' conversations on the phone (without fixing the problem). Not aimed at any particular scavenger retailer, but I dare say I could be nice all day too if I had a couple thousand of your dollars in my pocket Incidentally, I'm a former tool-and-die maker, so I actually CAN fix things. But when you pay full retail for new, makes no sense. I'm very "one-way" about it... I'll fix it myself OR I'll pay you to do it. But not both. I do not pay you AND fix it myself.

Certainly chrome tannage ("upholstery leather"). 2mm might be about right judging by teh pics... what us US boys would call 5/6 0Z leather.

HO claims to use only domestic hides. But "my question" wasn't for me -- just for your consideration. Maybe its made here with cows from here. Maybe not. Since I use the two I listed, it's not something that matters to me. Gotta wonder, tho -- if 'they say' that they " use only the finest U.S. steer hides", then why does your first post read " American Leather Direct says much of their leather is from U.S. sources " But you point out that you don't have "business license" (whatever that is). If you're talking about strictly retail purchasing, then your best bet might be to post in the "wanted" section, and perhaps someone here can get you the piece(s) you need for less than an arm ...

Thanks, Josh... never thought o' that cuz I never got no chap leather RED -- I gotta git me summa that there glycerin. Can't remember using any, truth is. But when I asked bout yer edge finishin', I meant due to the suede liner.

$7 is a GOOD price if the leather is decent. Most of us here, I would dare say, use leather from Hermann Oak (natural tooling leather at about $8) and/or Wickett & Craig (natural tooling at about $10) They are not the same, but both quite good. As for american leather, THEY may be in the US,but is the LEATHER from teh US?

If it helps, the holes in the bracket are for 6mm cap screws at 20mm on center.

OH>. yer talkin' about a dropped rig, and skirt holsters. See, now that I'd just go on cut with m' trusty knife. I do cut those on a bit of a curve, just don't git obsessed about what the curve is Last time I made something like that, I sent a bill that made it not really important if I wasted a little cowhide That's purdy.. just one question -- whatdya cut the tie downs from? Same hide? Latigo?

Lookin' good - - as always. It DO look like you got all the good miles outta that last one, too

This cobra machine came with two 6mm holes in the back. You can see 'em in the first 30 seconds of the cheap, low-rent, lame stinkin' video sum dummy dun put there https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWd4FlRHv-Q

Welcome! If you like that, yer REALLY gonna like when I start uploading patterns what let a fella make 'em flat (ish) in the back without forming first

Crisp stampin', even colors, clean uncluttered look, contrasting stitchin'.... AND you didn't drown it with that ant-streak crap! I like it One simple "fix"? Keep a piece of 3/4 or 4/5 ish leather next to yer machine - size of a belt keeper all you need. When you turn a corner (like in the middle of your binder spine piece), set it on the leather under the center presser foot and you won't git that 'booger' outside the stitch line. Just stitch to the turn, lift the foot like normal, slip the slip under there before setting the foot back down, and resume stitching. No booger Note there is another way, but that way is SO simple to do AND to explain ...

Just FYI - that 867 guide works well on the 441-style too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/252204937725?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

40070 downloads (woohooo) No visible wear on 'em I can tell, but I s'pose I better get some more ready.

Gonna depend on the amount of curve, Josh. If you're only dropping a few inches in 50"+, then you CAN use the strap cutter after the first one. But I do NOT think the curve is the same for every body shape, any more than I think all blonds are the same level of stupid I also don't think there is a "right" distance to put slots out from the gun on a pancake holster. On a round fella you can put the slots closer than the one for the narrow fella. Not that you need to, since he has less "curve" (more gradual) in his waist. Nor do I think there is a "right" amount of curve in a belt when I glue the layers together. A guy with a 34" waist needs his belt glued with more curve than the fella with the 44" waist... NOT the same radius I've made belts for slim fellas that looked a bit like dog collars. And I've made belts for big fellas where you 'n' me could both be talkin to the guy and never see each other But to answer the question, I don't make that many curved belts (very few last few years) so I cut them with an x-acto

https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1185-truckers-log-book-cover-kit-pattern.aspx?

Sounds like you got plenty of pressure.

Me, too, Josh. That belt is a bit snug? Yer fault for skippin' the gym Still, seems like if a fella cut a curved belt from a hide, there would be some waist (hehe).. But after teh first one, should be able to cut MORE curved straps with a strap cutter and no more waste. But I'm not seein' why a belt couldn't git shortened.. 'less moving the billet back would run into bullet loops..

Said he was holding the thread, or that's what I woulda thought too "... when I go to stich no matter how strong or hard I hold both top thread and bottom thread, my top thread gets caught down around the bottom bobbin.." And if this is recurring, I would take the hook assembly out and make sure there's nothing in behind there.

I've seen some great work using a hydr press...maybe you didn't have enough padding in there?