JLSleather

Cant' tell where it's wedging from that angle. Got a video camera? Pop the end cover off and "film" the shuttle / hook thingie while stitchin' a couple inches. First, clear everything out of there. Take teh top thread out of the needle (don't have to go back any further,.. just out of the needle. Turn the machine a couple revs to be sure nothing is trapped in there. Then just hand crank it a couple times... check for the notch in the needle to be in line with the hook of the assembly. If it is, then put the thread back in the needle and crank a few stitches.. where we can see straight in I had a short vid of that inside working, but aint sure where it went

Pay no attention to people on about "one and a half times around" those discs. If you go through a loop, then come back out the SAME loop, then you must be going all the way around twice. WHere's the half? If you have to cut the BOTTOM thread to get the part clear, then it's not an issue with the top tension discs. But where do you cut it? Once you cut the thread, can you pull thread from the bobbin with your fingers? First thing I'd try is ... verify that you have both threads outside the cylinder and toward the back before sewing. And if you do, then pull the bottom thread... to verify that it pulls smoothly (some tension, but not sticking). Might even take the end plate off the machine while doing this, so you can see it's going out the carrier (hook assembly) and straight up through the slot in the plate. That much is so simple to check, there's no reason to NOT check it. Beyond that, I agree that a new machine should work. Shouldn't have to 'trouble shoot' a new machine.

You're pressing in a press AND using a vacuum? Now there's commitment

Nah.. never been one who bought into that. When I oil, it's after the dye.

FWIW.. the angled slits leave the project much stronger and less likely to tear through.

I'm using HO "A" grade with the occasional "B" in there. And the saddle tan is NOT thinned ... straight out the bottle. Sometimes dipped, sometimes daubed, and a few times sprayed. Just not consistent. If it happened once I'd complain, have coffee, and go on about the work. But this is 'yet again'... No trouble... W/C sells a "chestnut" skirting so close to the same color I'll just go with that.

I thought about those computer case cooling fans (probably because mine are loud) but I don't think they move the volume of air i want going. As for timers, any digital stop watch will work (I have one that does a countdown you can program up to like 9 hours) or a $3 alarm clock. Dwight.. ya still gotta remember to SET IT I've never used a "hot box".. just good size fan in front of the work at room temp (75-ish all year). And I generally end up with holsters you could defend yourself with without the gun! But now you folks got me started ....

I don't have a problem with "minimums" existing. But I don't see the point of paying minimums at retail level. No matter - I dont shop down that way anyway. Ordered a couple of sides to 'test the water". What I got didn't look "so" bad on the grain. But the underside of one was discolored and clearly received some treatment, and the underside of the other had "bark" marks across every square inch. See it and feel it... like that goofy grate they put on the highway where there's a stop coming up. Couldn't swear it was from a feed mechanism, or perhaps a blade bouncing. WHY would you send out something like that? So, question for Jeff is... Do I want to do business where they think this is 'okay"? No. Do I want to do business where they don't think it's 'okay', but think I won't know, or won't care? No. No third question, really ... I could have returned it, I suppose. But I'm not really into 'mail tag', so ...

So, then -- you could simply add a loop much like the one shown above. Skive the ends (outside the loop) and stitch between the layers just like the previous 'version' of the pattern. OR, almost as simple, you could cut the parts from one piece (except the card pockets, for reasons already covered about the stitch showing). So you'd have 2 pieces instead of 4.. and they'd be 'joined' by this loopy thingie (in my case, 1.75" long) you made... You could use a "single" strap, or alternating to form a closure (hey, the girls liked that in the 60's, so ...). Which "could" be done by cutting a solid piece and then cutting out the ovals Cut out the shaded sections-- wide or narrow as you like long as they alternate positions. Remember the 1.75" is between stitch lines, so the "between" distance would actually be 1.5" (minus 1/8" per side). I added a "fold line" here just to be clear -- still just a matter of lining pocket tops up with the witness marks. Remember to stitch the card pockets on before folding over, and yer done.

So, if you took your case parts, and laid 'em out side by side flesh side up, you'd have this (note i added a 'pretend' stitch line on the pockets for illustration): Gitcha two pens -- one to wrap, one to mark. Use hers... tha'll fix 'er And a piece of the same leather you're using (3/4 here) Wrap one, mark with other. "Fancy" stitch line on there for clarity -- just mark across the top of both pieces. This one is just over 1 3/4", but again - it will matter what pen you're using. Measure distance between marks.--- use this measurement to move your pockets OUT from the body of the project. This will be your "loop"

No worries. Now, keep in mind that if your girlfriend likes that goofy pen loop thing added in, that's a 2-step simple process: Try to talk her into elastic or velcro (hook n loop) -- which will fit ANY pen size, and easily replaced if worn. OR if that fails, Then adding the girl stuff becomes a simple matter of creating a loop long enough to go around the type of pen you want to use, and ending up back where the stitch line of the pocket is on the stitch line of the main body. How to do that reliably, quickly, and easily (so you can get back to listening to the next thing she wants changed )

How you finish them edges, Red? Without actually holding one, I've always thought your rigs look good 'n' solid (in a impressive way). So you DO use the acrylic, or no?

Yep. About 100 times. And out of 100, it maybe "worked out" like 97. WHich is about the same as a dauber or dippin'... about 97% of the time it's fine. When it's not fine... I got several hours of my time just GONE. Now, I'm thinkin' if I'm gonna have several hours of my time gone, it should involve less leather in trash cans and more beer in brunettes Oh, this bein' 2016 and all, lemme just specify that when I say 'beer' I mean bud, and when I say "brunettes' I mean girls [only] ...

I didn't take it as "bad"... that's what they're there for.. so people can USE em

Yeah, I really do NOT "get it". But, that walnut looks purdy good ... even on the floor

Actually, I think 'selling' them for $0 can still get you sued... for loss of [their] income, damage to [their] reputation, etc. Not uncommon to see damages awarded 6- and 7-figures. No thank, I'll pass Incidentally, I was notified that someone contacted a 'clicker die' maker recently and had most of those patterns on my site made into dies. So, maybe see a lot more of those here shortly ... Difference is, I OFFERED them with the INTENT that people would use them and share them and email them and fakebook 'em....

I got blue guns. And I got aluminum guns. I'm constantly wondering why I didn't get the ones that are "holster prepped" with the sight channel already in and the port blocked out. Course, if I had those, then I'd still want to customize 'em a bit, so ....

I hate it. Fiebing's saddle tan dye -- what IS in there? For like the 4th time, I've trash canned a holster dyed with this stuff. Not 4 this week, more like 4 (or was it 5) over a year or better. Dye the leather, everything looks fine. It stinks ... worse than other colors (nobody ever notice this?). But when the project is wet-formed, the resultant color is pretty rough. Blotchy. Random. But only occasionally. So, first time my first thought wasn't all teh way dry.. like literally mixing oil and water. So I made a point of allowing ample dry time between dye and water. But still the problem. And the stuff IS smelly, so maybe I got an old bottle, or a bad batch? So I pitched it out, and bought a new jug. At some point, same problem. Maybe something in the water? I've seen deposits in teh water cause issues (not here, but another place n time). So, at that point I'm up to using distilled water only, both for carving and for forming. And allowing 2 days drying time between dye and water (or water and dye, depending). And using a new bottle of dye (though, who knows how long it's on the shelf before you get it). Still.... And the WEIRD and AGGRAVATING part is.. it's not every time. Dye 4 projects from the SAME hide and get 3 that are fine and one that looks like a saddle tan colored hyena (spots n blotches). And it's not the leather, since it's ONLY the saddle tan color. I like that color. Really like it. But I just don't need that headache, so ... I like this walnut color... you folks tried it?

We're not talking about the same thing. Yes, you paid for the book. And you can use the pattern to make the holsters, and sell the holsters. I have made -- and still get asked to make -- the one on page 22. But I can't sell you the pattern on page 22, since it's copyrighted. Nothing expired - I see it was renewed (the digital version says copyright 2010 Tandy Leather Factory). I can sell you the holster. I can even sell you my copy of the book (or 10, if I happen to have them). But I can't legally reproduce the image and sell it. Lawsuits have happened over just that, and the "damages" sued for are far more than the dollar value of your sales.

They's prolly a y-tube (pronounced WHY-tube) video about shortenin' belts somewheres. Thought from time to time about seein them dianchi videos for about 20 years now -- still haven't ruled it out

Well, since we're talking about 10 sides, likely be more like throwing it in TWO boxes

Belts can be shortened fairly easily. Lengthened not so easy.

Where you located? I just spoke with Renee at HO who says that's not a problem combining weights. I'd likely go with the 3/5 for what i'm doing. She says she'd like the heavier 5/7 (BSS ↑). Wait.. did someone just make reference to my underwear ..

That is -- among other things - one of the uses I would want this for. Someone will pipe in shortly to ask why not just order heavier leather to begin... but it aint the same.