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Everything posted by JLSleather
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Not even close to dry just yet, but here's a few of the new "models".. Tha's a Ruger LCR (top), a 642 j-frame S/W (left) and a Ruger SP101 3". All pretty good fit, meaning I like 'em about 8.5 outta 10. So the patterns will get 'tweaked' just a tad before sending. Still, very usable holsters...
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- revolver pancake
- holster pattern
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NOBODY sells molds for the bulldog mags. On the other hand, the mag pouch is REAL simple TWO jobs AND leather? Yikes -- my kids never let that happen! YEARS ago, I made a wall hanging for a lady. Carved and painted picture of a steam boat going down the river (man, I still haunted by all those guy wires had to be cut it). Stacks, steam, waves n wake, reflections in water... that took a bit! Made a bevel-cut cove-cut walnut frame for it too, which the UPS guy managed to break (though, give 'em some credit, they paid for it). The ONE thing I told this lady -- do NOT hang it in front of a window in direct sunlight. Sure enough.. at her home years later, there it is, across from the bay window.. looking a bit like a framed old saddle Wanted to know if I could "re-paint" it. Uhh...no - but for about 6 times the price you paid back then I could make you a new one. You just don't see those types of things much any more. Off the path a tad, about 2 months ago I did get to see a handbag I made a LONG time ago (25?). Still looks SHOWROOM. The lady got older and no longer carries it, but her daughter showed me. When I remarked how clean it was for it's age, she said her mother had shown it to all her friends, carried it around long enough to show it off, then put it in the top of the closet... thought it was too nice to use! So for years, it sat in a clean location, empty and out of sunlight and moisture..... wow.... But, that's another deally. Where's the upside down pic? We all liked your IWB you posted ... (man, am I glad the gun I dropped was just the casting ...)
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.38? Are you sure you aint got the "undercover" revolver? Same "look", but more .38-ish I got 'blue' guns, too, but I really like the aluminum molds from Duncan's (that's about the 25th time I gave 'em a mention. ... pretty sure subway woulda gimme a free sandwich by now.. maybe rib them boys up there about they owe me one ). You see the little girls in videos with a 3 1/2 oz urethane thingy in their new holster.. lookin' all proud that the dummy don't fall out. Makes a nice story, but try that same thing with a 3lb gun with a full mag in the back end... THEN tell me about your 'retention' That was just me havin some fun fur a bit Point is, the al guns are far more realistic weight (though I wouldn't use the word "accurate"), they don't have much expansion to heat (if you mess with kydex at all), they don't break in a press (in fact, they're pretty tough except when an extension -- such as a hammer protrusion -- meets a concrete floor from about 4 feet up). And the Duncan's boys are quick 'n' friendly.. so there's a no-brainer. Cost is about the same as most of the "blue" guns you find. OH>... and i DO I DO I DO like their mags better too. Molded at the "top" like they were loaded, so they slip into wet leather spaces much more smoothly and mold more true to form. And the BETTER mags are about HALF THE PRICE as the blue ones (and similar). I mean, not that the bulldog uses many mags, but still ....
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Well, yeah, pretty close. It's a .44 special 2 1/2". Not quite the same as the j-frames, but not so far off. A while back, I got a pattern sketched out, all but the thumb break snap position. Sititcheder together rough 'n' quik, just wanted the position. Then some dummy in my shop dropped the gun on the concrete floor, and there went the hammer (aluminum casting). So, kaint mark the snap ... I could order another dummy (and I will, I just got busy with other stuff) -- but I want to see this on the ACTUAL gun. NObody close got one, including the gun store. Suppose he could order one, but then I'd prolly owe a favor, and I don't like owin' nuthin'...
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Just found listings on ebay by springfield leather. Listings (more than one) say " Ordering "B" Grade means that Hermann Oak will send Springfield Leather Company the Best Grade Tannery Run Leather at that Time. What ya think? Honest mistake? Are they merely confusing "B" with "tannery run"? Suppose it would do any good to point it out? The listings are a bit confusing to me, but they end up being about $15 per foot (some 15 with free shiping, some $13 with $2+ shipping, etc). Man .. After i went to the trouble of defending them for charging shipping again ..
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- slc
- hermann oak
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Avenger style for S&W Model 28 .357
JLSleather replied to tclaridge's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Yep, what's not to like @!#$!@#!!! Being a bit compulsive, I'd prolly kick that stitch line up tighter on the trigger guard on the NEXT one, but this looks great! Colors that work with the gun, contrasting consistent stitching, and an old Smithy .... sweet- 8 replies
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- avenger style
- .357 magnum
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How many you holster boys got a CA Bulldog? I forgot (again) to order a new dummy after my hammer busted off on the concrete floor. SO THEN, wunna you boys got a gun, I'll TRADE you the pattern for this little 2.5" gun for a PICTURE of the holster you made from it. Basically, you take the pattern, make the holster, position the snap on the strap where it should actually go, and send me a pic (or just upload it for everybody) and let me know if the strap is a bit long or WAY too long No need to sign a confidentiality thingie... I assume we all know the pattern is for you (only).
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Best machine-sewing video tutorials?
JLSleather replied to soccerdad's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Try to stick to the ones from the machine supplier. Around here, you'll get a LOT of "advice" which is nothing more than someone repeating what they heard from someone else.. and may or may not be worth anything at all. Seriously, I've received "advice' and "tips" and "recommendations" about machines from people who don't own that model (and in some cases, don't own one at all). Oh, if your supplier doesn't offer any instruction, simple manual, etc... maybe get a new supplier? -
I use that slightly pricey teflon thing. It does seem a bit much paying $40 for a metal cup But they're about indestructable. I've had at least one for ... a long time. Reminds me.. I got one I need to put back together IF I can find my glue gun. The down side of owning properties is that the wife sometimes thinks it's okay to "borrow" tools... Anyway... I'm a bit of a clean-freak. So every so often, I knock the top off the glue pots.. then hot glue 'em back on. Nice 'n' clean again. Now that I think about it.. might just be easier to replace it every so often!
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EXACTLY my point. The guy who knows what he's doing gets paid LESS for his skill, while the slow guy gets paid MORE for ... he don't really know why. Personally, I don't pay extra for SLOW. And that "hand crafted" scam is a bit much, too. Some things need to be done by hand with some attention to detail. Others, not so much. Big winds through here recently.. LOTS of trees down, half the town without power for about a day. So we need trees cut and branches removed. And roofs repaired. I don't need a story about how it costs triple (or more) because you're cutting the trees with your vintage ax which belonged to dear old granddad
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OOOPS! that would help, wouldn't it .. measuring half a dozen spots... looks like .125 - .128, so right at 8 oz Not a lot of waste. Always got that goofy neck portion, but two sides already cut pretty straight.
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- shoulder
- tooling leather
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Meh.. no big deal. They paid out $6k for repairs I can get done for about $4800, so no worries .
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As a rule, I like one size smaller needle than some use. For 138, I like a 22 needle, though it seems difficult to get those with a chisel point. #23 for 207 thread, etc. And I like the LL point needles personally.. fills in the holes (I hate holes) and doesn't leave the look of "space between" the stitches. The 135-series needle is SO much shorter, will it even WORK in the 441? I would think it don't bring the loop down far enough...
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Anybody can use A-grade single shoulders? At the moment, I need the SPACE more than I need the leather! I'll post a sketch here of what is available, and if there's any interest I'll get pics of the ACTUAL piece(s) you'll get later today. Single shoulders, cut from Grade A cowhide backs (no bellies). I certainly have some, lemme know what type of square footage you need and I may be able to cut one larger for you (sorry, not interested in cutting them smaller). Oh, to clarify - these are about 7 sq ft (32" x 32" -- ish, not including the neck, which I'll GIVE you). A- grade @ $10 / ft
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- shoulder
- tooling leather
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I bill items like I pay for items... by the JOB DONE. I don't pay anyone "by the hour". By that standard, the slow guy would be paid MORE for the same work as the efficient guy, which makes no sense. And since I don't PAY by time, I also don't CHARGE by time. Say a fella got a new pistol and wants a holster. Me and a nuther fella make that rig. We both use same leather, same glue, same thread, same finish, even the same pattern -- and both apply it equally well. When done, the two holsters are virtually identical. Now, ... materials cost is the same. Cost us each (for example) $20. Now, say we charge $20/hr labor. He does it in 2 hours... total labor $40, total price tag $60. But I'm a bit dim.. and the same rig takes me 4 hours. Total labor $80... total price tag $100. SO then SOMEBODY tell me how my identical holster made with the same quality materials is "worth" $40 more than the one just like it. ?!@#!$! REPAIR work is the ONLY situation where a "time" factor could actually make sense. I never do it, though... since I only repair it if I made it. We used to own some construction contracting as well. And I can tell you that banks and insurance companies pay for repairs BY THE JOB. Going through this again right now due to high wind damage on some of our properties. They (insurance) pay "this much" for roof material replacement, "this much" for the crushed staircase, "this much" for the clean-up of tree limbs. You can drag it out clean til Tuesday if you like, but you won't be paid any more than the set price (which I happen to agree with). Incidentally, this post started a couple of years ago. I have ordered leather from Weaver THIS year, and I can tell you that 15% waste wouldn't even be close!
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I thought maybe that knowing you could find unopened "treasures" in the dark corners would get someone ELSE to come do mine next time!
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That looks like a belt maker's dream ...
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Folks must be busy busy around here... 286 holster pattern downloads from the site today
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Yep, HO does grade their leather. I don't know the folks mentioned down there at Panhandle, but likely they purchase "tannery run", other words a mix of grades. Price cut because HO doesn't have to go through and grade 'em.... so in that way they "could" have HO leather that doesn't have a marking for grade ... meaning it could be any grade. HO sells a "mix" of "A" and "B". You might be able to buy all "B", but you generally can't buy all "A" (mix it up so there isn't one guy buying up all the "A" hides, I suppose). The "B" generally isn't so very different from the "A" - either is good usable leather. And no matter what grade you get, there will be SOME marks (fat wrinkles and/or scratches, bites, etc.) plus belly leather sucks no matter the grade. Most retailers will tell you they get leather from HO, and they don't do anything to it. Whatever HO sent, that's what they got. WIthout biting any one seller in the butt, I can say that is NOT always the case.
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I really need to clean out around here more often. Just found a quart of black oil dye and 3 bottles of Fiebing's stain that I didn't know I had I think it was late last year I found an entire side of 3/4 H.O. hiding under some other stuff. WHY do I always find that stuff AFTER I bought more .. ?!@~!!
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How many dog collars can we make with a skin ?
JLSleather replied to Doglover's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
10 collars out of 18 feet? I'd be unglued, and about no fun at all! Even for a VERY large dog, that's not right. I think biggest one i ever did was 2" wide and double thick, and the strap to make it measured about 45" long (22 1/2" twice). And again, that's a BIG dog. Most wouldn't need to be nearly that large. In general terms, a cowhide back would be about 18 feet, which is 2592 sq inches. And that BIG collar is 90" (45" X 2"), SO simple math says that's 28.8 collars. Subtract 20% (ish) for waste, and you still get 22 or 23 collars, and that's if they're all for LARGE dogs and all DOUBLE thick.- 5 replies
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- dog collars
- skin
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Line it with some smooth veg tanned goat. It's still gonna wear, but minimal.
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A consew 206-RB5 for $700 is a good deal if it's in good condition.
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Usually decided according to the size of the case. A small pocket notebook might be 1.5mm, and a large notebook might be 3mm plus a 1mm lining
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Ordered a couple from Intl. Friendly lady obviously has some real knowledge of the process.