JLSleather

Yep. I mention it here, in an attempt to help a guy out. Lots and lots of "suppliers" running around who have no qualms at all about climbing up your back, while whispering in your ear what a favor they're doing you.

Well, But if the distance across the bottom and the diagonal distance up the right side are the same, then by definition of a triangle, the third side would be the same. And an arc which passes through BOTH might as well be a radius (of a circle). If you're spanning 100 feet (or designing the St Louis arch) then you wouldn't 'fudge' the math, but in 1 1/2" (38 mm to you) the burnisher will eliminate that anyway But yeah, that was my question -- if there was A shape that was correct, or if "english point" is just a generally pointy thingie.

Yeah, must be -- I don't even remember that symbol on teh far left (and throughout) - if I ever used it. Still, looks like an equilateral triangle would be inscribed, so no need to do the math (WOOHOO). Set a compass to the width of the strap, draw an arc. Move to other side, draw same arc. Wah-Lah .. Not sure why different punch makers use different shapes, but maybe I just make my own shape and don't worry a bout thing1 and thing2

Tha's funny. "i take a little extra care on the front".. as he's dropping cigarette ash in his lap. Was he just doing that to see if we were watching? And yes, if you haven't applied finish, you can re-wet it. Usually I can tell from the color of the leather, but you have several colors going on there at the same time.

Got a bigger picture? Can't see much in that one.

Okay, I'm not seeing it. What exactly is "english point"? We see strap end cutter punches, carving designs, templates.. all saying "english point" but not a word about just what that is. Yes, I know people's tendency to be 'random', but that's too much like that "close enough" attitude I don't have So, is there a 'formula' for "EP"?

The stitch length may be a bit long for the size of thread. 207 WILL hold it, it's just the look (which is somewhat just personal preference). And you already mentioned them "darn wrinkles" ... Over all looks pretty good, though. I've always liked that contrasting stitch.

Are these sold? STill available?

Never seen it done like that around here -- I LIKE it.

Minumum 10 sides of all one weight, or 20 sides you can mix and match weights. I got more than one letter about price hikes, so I called to verify current pricing. Course, if you'll use the leather, it's a no-brainer. 10 backs is $1730 plus UPS charges ($150-ish) for "about" 190 sqft ($9.11 x 19ft x 10). Now, some can tout "free shipping", but it's easy to say 'free shipping' when they're charging you $500 MORE for the same amount of leather and sending something worse than "B". So, I think the "catch" is what you get by NOT ordering at the tannery

Anybody got wunna these they're willing to loan out? A while back, I started laying out another holster pattern for this gun, this time including a thumb break strap. But when I went to mold the thing, I got reminded that I BROKE the hammer off of my dummy gun (that's a good day to not be using the REAL gun). So, I can't really set the position of the snap with out GUESSING. Now, when I go to make these, I put in the back (usually female) snap parts, but then seat the gun and mark the position of the front (strap side) snap parts. I just leave the strap a tad long, fold it over the hammer and mark position of the back snap, and then trim the strap as needed. BUT I GOT NO hammer ANd I don't know anybody around here using that gun. I could - I guess - buy another dummy, but this one hasn't been high enough demand to warrant more than one of that dummy. So if you want to LOAN me one, I'll mark my position (pattern already pretty much done), test the thing, return your gun, and send you the pattern for free. Couple days maybe, and then I'll order another one... either way.

Not sure why this posted twice. I only called them once

Sorry.. doing too many things at once (sometimes ONE is too many). The larger number IS larger thread. For ME, #69 too small for that project, but 92 or 138 would work. That machine, just use a sharp needle (maybe a #22?). And I certainly recommend having bobbin CASES on hand for each size thread you use (and maybe a couple for different BRANDS of thread?). So, set one bobbin case, for instance, for #138 thread and then use it ONLY for 138 thread. Use a different bobbin case for #69, etc. They're cheap, and this way you never spend time 'fussing' bobbin tension. I dont' have my Consew any more... seemed like a good call for me AND that girl up the road. Big mistake, ... if she ever tires of it I'd buy it back quick.

I admit it. I still have a couple pieces of 3/4 oz under the bench that ALMOST became holster liners... until I realized I cut it backwards - it matches the holster outer (grain side of the holster = flesh side of the liner )

If you're looking for #69 thread, http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TTE&Category_Code=nylon-thread-069#product-selected Personally, I might go with a slightly heavier thread (the #92 "cashew" is very close to the same color). That machine is a good one, but the stitches aren't going to be the same front and back.

Goat (or kid) is quite strong even when quite thin. Incidentally, you can get cowhide, or calf skin, with a very nice "under side". If the flesh side of your leather is "fuzzy", you need to get leather somewhere else.

FYI FYI FYI FYI Just off the phone with HO. Hermann Oak "A" grade SIDES currently running $7.66 per foot, making whole sides about $190 U.S. Hermann Oak "A" grade BACKS (no belly leather) currently running $9.11 per foot, or about $175 U.S. I say "about" prices because depends on actual footage of the piece... sides about 25 ft and backs about 19 ft.

FYIJust off the phone with HO. Hermann Oak "A" grade SIDES currently running $7.66 per foot, making whole sides about $190 U.S. Hermann Oak "A" grade BACKS (no belly leather) currently running $9.11 per foot, or about $175 U.S. I say "about" prices because depends on actual footage of the piece... sides about 25 ft and backs about 19 ft.

You don't think I'm kiddin', do ya? Wife has another word for it, but I call it "thorough" If you draw a line from the top of the slot to the top of the slot (or center to center, whatever), then use that 'guideline', your basket weave will be as parallel as the belt it is on. Course, that don't account for them 'round' fellas who wear their belt 3" lower in front

Color looks good. IS that basket weave level with the ground when worn

That's a lot of work for $18 U.S.

Now tha's lookin' purdy sweet right here. Love the stitching! Oh, one thing I meant to mention: when you mark the position of the 'panel' on the front piece, I like to mark the STITCH line, not the outside edge. Use the witness marks (at the top) to align it, use the stitch lines for where to put the glue, and don't mark the outside at all. On this one, the line is visible in the undyed version. Don't think it's detracting at all here, just mentioning it for the future ..

Aint that upside down? Looks like a fella mite wanna flip it...and then drag it... so you get a profile sorta like that?

Agreed -- W/C "tooling" leather is a bit lighter than HO. Not white, but not as "russet". Tooling: very light, colors easily. If you want to be able to dye a range of colors, this is the way to go. Skirting, in drum-dyed shade. It has no finish, and you can still dye it any color darker. English bridle, will come dyed and color can't be changed (at least, not well). It's very nice, but then you'd have an entire side of one color. They'll split it to the thickness you need. Give 'em a call, and tell them you WANT the split. This "bottom side" that gets split off would make nice exotic leather straps... just glue snake, lizard, whatever right to the split and go ...

Couple points here: Not all Hermann Oak is created equal. Sometimes around here people think (and advertise) that it's HO leather, therefore good leather. Not necessarily the case -- some is better than others. Fiebing's dyes are good stuff, have been for years. But they don't mix well with water. Be sure your project is dry before applying oil dyes (the exception being if you are SATURATING with dye, I've seen people "get away with it") For projects that small, I wouldn't concern yourself with "casing" the leather. Damp sponge across it, stamp, done.