JLSleather

I don't think I'd use the word "offended". I thought it was unnecessary. I would never buy one, have one in my home, advertise them for someone, or likely hang out with people who own them But when I saw it, I just put it in the 'not for me' category and went on past it. People do all manner of things. Long as they don't do them at my house ... If all they're doing is posting things on a site which isn't mine... Not everything, everywhere, is "okay". If nothing is upsetting to you, that's called a sociopath. But if I let it sidetrack me every time someone said or did something stupid, inappropriate, or offensive - I'd never get ANYTHING done

If you got fellers stout enough to carry a pig on that strap, he don't need no gun -- just whoop the pig and make him walk to the house. I was gonna suggest THE best idea what to do with it is send it to Jeff, but since I don't know what I'd do with it either (and the fillin' station don't take AU yen - or whatever you folks got over there) that's maybe not plan A

Same thing here.. two holes in teh front, two holes in the back. "Manual" is basically useless, and I'm not seeing anybody posting any of it.

Yep, that's what I mean by "behind" the hammer. That one looks like a good candidate for a safety strap!

Yeah, purdy common to have a leather backer over the t-nuts. As for finishing suede, I gotta leave that to somebody else

Your "overstitch wheel" (I guess is what you're referring to) may have a '5' (per inch) wheel, which would be fine. And a relatively heavy thread.... 5-cord (ish). Again, this is just cosmetics... I'm sure the displayed one will hold up. And yeah, you can sand the suede, but it looks like you have a pretty good 'nap' already. IN the tool room , back when, if I needed something that smooth it was a combination of a surface griinder and lapping compound -- neither much use on leather! OH.. what tutorial did you see?

I mean half inch more to the LEFT, or other words make your reinf piece LONGER by about that long. I don't doubt it's safe as is, just thinking like potential customers will see it. I don't own any 1000 grit... not since i worked with oak and walnut! I usually do 120 to get close, then burnish. Maybe touch up with some 220 later after it's dry. Some leather is more stubborn than others about burnishing. I do have a little wax I use on the tough ones (roughly even mix of bees wax / paraffin). Actually sink it INTO the leather, then buff with a piece of canvas. The canvas will finish it up, polish it right purdy. And I use white canvas, so if there's any coming off, I'll know ..

Well done! I'd pull that "wrap" around just another 1/2" or so, to get more of the trigger area covered - simple adjustment really. If I was going to "nit pick", for myself I'd like to see that white thread with a little heavier thread and a bigger stitch length -- just for more contrast.. not structural. I'd certainly be interested in knowing how well the black holds up on the suede side. For a first, that looks purdy durn CLEAN. Shoot, that looks purdy good for a tenth one

Upholstery leather? Tough to get any kind of an edge on that stuff, I would think. So, from a guy who admittedly doesn't use it... here's a 'out loud' thought: Cut a straight strip about twice as wide as you want to end up with. Make a center line mark on the "underside" - can be pen, marker, whatever since it will get covered. Put yer glue on there (you could actually use rubber cement if you prefer.. only has to hold until it's stitched, really. Tap it flat (not so much you stretch the stuff), flip it over, and stitch 1/8" (ish) each side of the center. This would be all needed for a "straight" strap. Cures that 'rough edge' issue. Other things to "figger" depending on what you do with the ends (riveted? sewn onto rings or dees? etc?)

Full-size holster pattern available for this one FREE at http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/holster-patterns-diy/

Yeah, I can see where it's not a quick n painless setting, and I think the shims behind teh plate is certainly more controllable. i don't know a whole lot about these machines, though I catch on pretty quick. So I guess I'm thinking of the "new guy" when I say all this..... just cuz I don't want them to spend a couple grand and then think they're doing it wrong when they aren't, or think they "broke" something when they didn't. As a former tool and die man, I've installed a couple [million] shims...

I've seen some with screws, and some with a pin which is part of the buckle tip -- you punch a hole in the leather for the pin, then peen the pin to prevent it from coming out of the hole. Alex makes a good point, though. You should make sure your belt leather tip fits inside the metal tip BEFORE doing much of anything to it. Sometimes - particularly on less expensive "over the counter" sets, the belt width is the OUTSIDE of the metal tip. So if you made say .. a 1 1/2" wide belt, and lined it, and stitched about 1/8-ish from the edges, you might find out that getting the leather to go in the tip results in cut stitching....

But, the material is not "stickier" in reverse than it is in forward. It's the same material.

When you see someone familiar with sewing machines as Wiz clearly is making statements like "often compensates for mismatched stitch lengths", then you can REASONABLY assume the this is fairly common (which,it is). So, I "get" it. This is an adjustment which has no 'fine tuning' set screw. And to further complicate things, you're trying to make a LINEAR change in stitch length with a ROTARY control. While that can be done, it's not 'zip, zip, done' (probably). Has there ever been one delivered that showed up stitching back in the exact holes? Probably. Throw enough poop at the wall, as they say.... But it does "grate" me a bit that they are ADVERTISED "stitches back in the same holes", if they DONT. What they mean, apparently, is that is "could be" made to do that. So that's probably what they should say. $2500 isn't life-altering money, but it's not pocket change either (at least, not to me). For $2500, it should show up ALREADY doing what it's claimed to do. If not, it's like buying a new car, which runs GREAT once you tune it up....

Ho

Been a LOT of 'stuff' on lately about 'casting' stitches, and 'angling' stitches, and 'laughing till yer in" stitches....bleh! I like mine STRAIGHT. Comes out the awl, or comes off the machine - either way I want 'em STRAIGHT. BOTH sides.

Nobody? Well, okay. Duncan's was closed for a few days anyway... guess I'll call 'em up and see have they got another one.

Yep, tha's still awfully wet. "Smooshy" and heavily darkened where ya bopped it. Flip it over on the other side, and note the "negative" of the pattern on the other side. A wide, dark outline 'drawing' is a sure giveaway yer toolin' too wet. Yer pattern aint centered on the leather, but the cuts look purdy smooth .. not broken 'n' choppy. FYI,, FWIW kinda thing... I use a "shader' or "thumbprint" before a beveler (as a rule, more often than not) but each his own. And I AIM to get a project completely done once I start. On those times where it's not going to happen, I FINISH the part that I can. What i mean... I generally would use (on a pattern like that one), a 'shader' (likely 2 or 3 different ones), then bevel, then selective modeling (too long story to include at the moment), then camo tools, veins, then background and decorative cutting. So, if I know I'm running low on time, I might do the flower where you did, and all the stems / leaves leading up to that, and background, and cut, so that whole side is DONE, then cover the other side with a piece of (plastic) tracing film and leave it right where it is on the marble block. Come back tomorrow, uncover the work, and wait 'til it's ready. With marble under it and plastic over it, it AINT gonna dry out. Truth is, doing it 'in one shot" uses less time. Tooling, I know. But I didn't reply here cuz I don't know that resisty / paint / antstreak / wax off thing

I don't like thick wallets. I prefer a 3/4 "back" or outside, and generally line with about a 1 1/2 oz chrome tanned goat or kid. I make my own "innards" AND I buy them pre-fabbed. Particularly if I need one or two, it's nice to be able to 'throw an insert' in and ship it. If I need 10 or more, I'll likely make them here. The Chaylor inserts sold by SLC are decent quality. The ones they make down there, I don't care for (too thick and rigid). The Chaylors look a bit pricey, but calculate the time it would take you to make one and they don't seem so bad I need to get back on the horse with these, actually. "Back when", I'd make 20 or 30 of 'em just to have ready... all glued and stitched and ready to go. Lest I bore you to no end, here's a couple pics. I'd add a link ot the Chaylor inserts, but I see that web site is boogered at the moment! Here's a couple I sometimes 'do up'...

Welcome!

I'll have to get out a measurin' stick or somthin' to check the holes. Without giong to the machine, I'm gonna guess they's 6mm holes, one vertically above the other, right in the area that lever will swing (IF I was to ever use it). Too bad I don't have a mill or a lathe any more.... as a former tool 'n' die guy, I know 27¢ worth of steel when I see it But this little slidin' thing that came with the machine, pain in my back. I checked... they're like $85! Somebody can have this one (I did try to use it a dozen times or so) for HALF that price. Shoulda bought the cb4500, I guess (again)... which would have come with that.

You may be worrying too much. I sometimes oil before dye, but usually the dye is before the oil. Sometimes I dye the leather and then assemble -- sometimes not. I don't use a LOT of resolene, but when I do I like to give it a whole day to set up. Probably longer than it needs, really. Point is, don't get carving this in stone. A lot of the "order" of steps is just personal preference. In fact, I often don't apply a "final" finish until AFTER stitching. You'll get a feel for what you prefer before long.

Awe.......... Er,.. ughhh.. I mean... yer welcome

2 tapped holes on the back of the cobra... do these fit the drop-down edge guide available with Cowboy machines? Looks like they might, but guessing from pictures, and I admit I don't care for $100+ guesses.

It LOSES an inch? Wait.. what? Purdy sure when my wife came from NZ she GAINED an inch