JLSleather

Just off the phone with Heather (Tx Cus D) who answered about every question a guy could possibly ever have. And then some. They're making me one, and likely replacing one and repairing one. But I can say that they made dies for me for two sizes of mag pouch -- I think 3 or was it 4 variations? - which all work quite well. ONE of those questions... yes, they DO make dies which cut on both edges (top / bottom). There is a bit of an increased cost, but for items which use a matched left and right (or front and back) this is money well spent. Beyond that, give 'em a call and they can tell you what you need.

Here's the same information, in a condensed version. There is no "acceptable value". Below this line merely expounding that one truth. ______________ $8 is acceptable. $80 is acceptable. $800 is acceptable. Seriously, you have people who CHARGE for "classes" (they dont' charge ME, but they do charge). Think about that. Somebody thinks I'll give them money to offer advice while I make a project myself ______________ YOU charge what YOU charge. If at some point, it seems like I don't like it, or have an opinion about it, feel free to remind me that it's none of my business

IN fact, I just used a full-size pattern as an example in another thread. Maybe some of these foiks could tell us a ballpark number on this one? http://www.jlsleather.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Gk43_P1.pdf

I have no idea what some second party should charge some third party. I've sold things at various prices. Still do. I might offer something for sale at $80 today. Next week, I might sell the same thing for $37. Or I might give one away just cuz I felt like it. This is the whole idea behind something being "mine" -- I can do what I like with it. But I don't concern myself with what the next guy is doing. None of my business anyway. I see it -- I just concede there's nothing I can do about it. Like the sun coming up in the east. I've noticed it, but really doesn't matter if I like it or not -- not up to me. There's a guy on ebay, sells a lot of holsters in the $39-43 range. I don't like 'em, and I wouldn't buy one, and I wouldn't use one. Still, the guy sold 10,000 of em -- so 10,000 times $25 profit ... hmmm..... IN teh end, YOU decide what YOUR time is worth. That holster in teh pattern can be made for about $15 -- that's using the 'good stuff'.

Oh, yeah.. there's a pattern for a Glock 43 holster free for the download right over there → http://www.jlsleather.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Gk43_P1.pdf If you had it made into a die (and reverse it for the lefty) you would not be the first.

suit yourself. I have the G43 in both alum and the blue. Both work fine - the real gun seats in teh holster nicely. The next guy will do what he will do. One obvious difference..... we all see them boys makin' pointless repetitive videos of their new holster they made.. held upside down with a blue gun in it. Here's some obvious common sense info .... that upside down blue gun means nothing. My Ring's brand 'blue gun' G43 weighs 7.8 oz (there may be some variation one ot the next). Glock says the actual gun, loaded, weighs 23 oz. The aluminum gun from Duncan's weighs 20 oz. Nuf said. _________________________ Other hand, if there was a gun shop wanting multiples of a specific holster, then take their order. If they consider "multiples" and "we can't get enough of them" means THREE, then I wouldn't invest a great deal of time there. If they mean THIRTY, then that would be interesting -- and they should by now be discussing payment and deposits. And yes, I would ask for a deposit. IN a small town where everybody knows everybody, full payment up front may not be required. But a deposit for materials is still reasonable. Not a pretty story, but truth is some very lucrative businesses have been built with good "cash flow" -- but sadly the 'cash flow' was from not paying their suppliers and contractors. Happens

We could make a blog out of just this one thread. I could post something about twice a week ... wouldn't always include blood, though. ...

Actually, I was thinking about numbers from the people who make them. I've talked with that girl, and I'm sure the steep increase in cost is due to "critical" features. Simple enough to make slot punches, but takes a bit more time to ensure they are matched, sized, placed, and parallel. I'm quite picky - I admit it. I expect to pay for what I get. But when I pay, I expect what I asked for. A "bargain" is no bargain if it isn't what I needed, and on the other hand, I'm not paying $75 and up for a circle I could have any first year machinist student make in 15 minutes. Course, it's a little tougher to BS me about some things. I made dies (not clicker dies, but stamping, blanking, forming, drawing dies) before some of these folks wore big boy pants Perhaps you could show us your sketch? Actual size or dimensions not necessary, maybe just a sketch with an overall size -- so we know what cost $60 (ish). As for TxCD, they seem friendly enough, and I DO have and use some of their products.

GOOD leather is $10 / foot (give or take) at retail. If you need ONE strap, then I wouldn't concern myself too much about the square foot price. Or if you need TEN straps, then just buy the side (or double shoulder) and cut them.

$41 is about the best price you'll see for that dummy. Personally, I'd spend the extra $10 and get the aluminum ones at Duncans. If the store is wanting to buy holsters and "can't get enough", then get at least two of the dummy guns.

TIghten the top tension? I would have thought maybe reduce bottom tension, due to increased diameter ...

I'm not sure I exactly followed this, but I think we're basically saying the same thing in different words. http://www.jlsleather.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Holster_Theory.pdf

Four years later, still the same conversations going on, so just marking this one. Making a pattern for a curved (or flat backed) pancake holster might take a little thought, and maybe even an extra sheet of paper or two. But it is done. Most of the ones who only make those "50/50" pancakes are generally just not willing to think it out to do it otherwise. This is standard answer in today's world, though -- just blame the wearer. Don't like the crap leather you got sent? You aren't creative enough. Sewing machine won't stay adjusted? You aren't doing it right. Holster is tight on the belt? You did break it in. Blahblah. I'm far from done - always laying out something. But here's a pic of a holster which is made from paper patterns. -- one for the front, one for the back. Retention is virtually the same whether the holster is in your hand or on your belt and cranked down. Slots are move IN (yes, IN closer to the firearm) than a "normal" pancake, taking less room on your belt, making easier to conceal, wears longer due to less "flexing" of the leather on and off the belt. Unlike so many in today's sea of marketing poo, I dont really feel the need to go make a video of something when someone else has already done that quite well. You want to SEE this being done --- formed pancake style holster from a paper pattern, precut parts before beginning - see Sam Andrews' view of that (well done, I say). There is no need for another video. Oh, incidentally, the holster Sam makes here is a lined holster, too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFsXw3gabqk#t=16

Example? No... you'd have to google it, or some such. I'm not talking about a bench top model here.

In fact, this underside "split" often IS "tooled".. to make fniished splits or embossed leathers. Course, we're talking TONS of pressure in a press, not a mallet.

You may be confused about what "suede" is. Not all suede is chrome tanned. When [what you are calling] vegetable tanned leather is leveled (split) the underside which remains is "sueded", but still vegetable tanned. More often, referred to as a "split". If you make holsters from a single layer of tooling leather, then one side (usually the inside) is "sueded". Lining the holster with a sueded split would make it thicker, heavier, but still "nappy" on the inside. So, back to the original question.. can you tool "suede".. then yes, you can if it's vegetable tanned.

When people "cold call" me, or fill my mail box (electronic or paper) with stuff I didn't ask for, they have cut their own throat. Even if it's something I intend to buy at some point, theyhave just succeeded in making sure I will get it from someone OTHER than them. My neighbor's son sells insurance. But not to me. Guess he figured since I like his dad that was "permission" to send me crap. Since i"m ALREADY a W/C user, then a guy could appreciate a call from them sayin 'hey, we got some stuff here you might like".. or maybe a flyer in my next package. But the mediacom "area representative" I didn't ask to come to my door got asked questions for an hour and a half and then told we werent' interested. He hasn't been back.. What -- that wasn't fun?

I try not to have stuff just to have it.. so if I don't need it, I lilely don't have it As a rule, benches requiring braces can be done by angling the brace BACK and down from that front edge. Course, I'm only 5'10", so I can get away with that mostly.

2' deep seems quite popular, but I actually like mine nearly twice that. I like a couple feet (at least 18") for tooling in front of me, and about that again for tools. Having said that.. my bench is falling apart. Trying to put off replacing it until I find out if I'm getting re-located. I do like the rock set in like that ..

You don't seem to be very good at this. I think that when selling on the 'black market' , fella sposedta NOT post in on the forums

FWIW... Do with it as you see fit. This is 'as shown', and I'll be not making this until it's fixed. 1911fail.pdf

Few years ago, I couldnt' get many to set right either... the 20's OR the 16's. So I complained at the tandy where I got them and the setter... STANDARD response... it's "operator error". But I'm quite tired of people selling me CRAP and then trying to tell me it doesn't work cuz I'm doing it wrong. Simple fix, while I was standing there, I walked over to shelf, picked up a pack of snaps and a brand new setter, threw 'em on teh bench they have right there (I think for 'classes') and said ."show me". 'Course, two tandy people couldn't get them to work, either. Turns out, tandy had changed the snap, but not the setter. Genius.

Yep, that's what took me so long to get around to it, too. Kept thinkin' I know I aint gonna like it! On a strip this wide, should be able to carry THREE mags. The reasoning was .... same 1/1/2" slots as the pistol similar look to the pistol enough room between mags to clear each other (which I then widened a bit to help allow it to "flex' on the belt) simple construction But I can see where this would be a pain in the back, even though on your side. So I'll re-work it. Loops would allow room for tension screws and STILL not be this big.

Yeah, just as i suspected. This thing for the double mag is WAY too long front to back 7"+. You could trim a bit here n there, but I'm scrappin' it... much nicer just put a snap-on loop on the back... easier off 'n' on AND take up less belt space. I stuck white thread in black leather so you fellas could easily track whazup... but I don't like even the idea. Gonna go a different way. Still, I'll purdy up the pattern for those who care to do this one.