JLSleather

Me, too.. I got stuff everywhere. Seems I'm always cleaning and clearing.... even the digital mess. Condensing some stuff, so here's a few of them there small wallet patterns, whatcha kin use when and how you like. Mass produce 'em all day... no worries - no royalties - no kiddin'. CardWallets.pdf

Ah.. I see you been there already You got it covered, except maybe nowadays you should have a "hand made" weaved basket on the bike -- rainbow colors of course.

Did we get this done for him? Sweet!

Yeah, Bob got some thread made and put a cowboy brand on it (ALL those puns entirely intentional - in fact, that was jus funta say). I like that, though... as opposed to most places today have someone else do it, and then say "we" make this ... or that.. Like apparently "everybody does it" is not only an excuse, but some type of honor. So, I haven't tried it as yet. Got me to check though, I didnt right off see anyone else with 346 thread in natura (though for all I know at this point, it could be the same thread someone else calls "wheat" or "sand" or beige....).. Here's the show... http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread.html No trouble, Bob -- no referral discount required. You're welcome

Uhh.. well -- if you was concerned about that, then aguycould put the snap on a separate piece of leather, and then sittch that piece of leather to the leather .... of the mag pouch... so that the snap was trapped between layers. two small pieces... no wider than a mag, square, set snap in it... sew the piece to the pouch.. wrap stsrap on belt and mark positon of other snap end... only sewing you need to do is accessible at the top.

Well, it's just a mag pouch, right? So, what if'n' a fella wazta put a line 16 snap through the front AND a short strap, then put the other half the snap on the other end of the strap, which would be long enough to go around the belt and snap. Two straps - one each side - would let a fella wear it as a inny or a outty. As them MN folks would say.. aguycould do that..

Lookin' good (still!). I usually don't care for that antstreak stuff on a carving, but this looks good - especially with those grips.

Got kids? I'd put a table runner or carving board, or something there - before the kids make sandwiches right there. Purdy sure oxblood is not food-safe

Wait... aint that purdy simple to figure? I mean.. start the machine.. no material.. don't even need a needle. Get it rollin'. Grab the handwheel. If you can stop the wheel, without stopping the machine, then 'you aint in the groove, man"...

Wait ... so you're making a belt for a 1 mo old? With the little ones -- say like usually under 12 or 14 -- I size the same way as always, but I use a short buckle. And by short, I mean length-wise. The length of the buckle is part of the "size" of the belt. Longer buckle put on the same belt equals longer belt. So then, using a short (length) buckle and making the belt fit is a starting point. And it's common to make belts with 5, 6, or 7 adjustment holes, the size being the middle one. When he/she grows the belt can be moved to then next hole. But if you put the name in the middle to begin, then each move of the belt causes the name to move half of that. Other words, gain 1", the name will be "off" by 1/2". So by the time you are "out of holes" on the belt, you "could" replace the buckle with one 2" longer and it would be back in teh middle hole, but the name will be off about 1" - which looks not wonderful, simply. And that's if the buckle is centered.. but see below. SO THEN, you can .. Make the belt to fit now, and when the child grows, make another one and keep this one for the memory. Make the belt with a short buckle, and replace with a longer buckle when needed. In this case, I usually use initials at the tip instead of name in the back. This way, when the kid is bigger and the buckle is bigger making the belt bigger, the "name" is still right where it was. OH, one more thing.. for the placement of the name it MATTERS how the buckle / belt is worn. We would all agree that them big whoppin' trophy buckles get worn centered on the front. But some people wear heel bar buckles (or ranger) or center bar buckles with the bar directly over the seam in the clothing. I know some old jarheads (once a jarhead ...) who haven't been in service for years but still wear a belt with the tip of the buckle lined up with the material overlap, so all teh buckle is to the left of the seam. Been meaning to add that to my little sketch thingie ...

Aw... shoot.. you should make 'em. Just not the ones where ya spend 10 minutes cutting out a holster panel (just cutting it out), or the ones where ya sketch a shape for 5 minutes, while music plays that has nothing to do with what yer doin'... or well --- you get it We got anufa them already.

Not to worry.. these are pretty simple to figure out. My experience with sewing was dating a couple girls who knew how to sew (though, they never actually did it around me - ). Bottom line, if I can do it, YOU can do it!

You would want Stohlmans book(s) on making cases. The three are all good - and volume 2 specifically addresses what you're talking about. Unlike so many these days, I don't see any wisdom in repeating what has already been so well layed out. Guy gives you all you need to lay out a pattern to suit your size and needs... well worth the money. In fact, smart to bookmark the leathercraft library - tons of topics and patterns. Fast, inexpensive, and easy to use. Thousands of articles, blogs, videos, and various social poo posts have been made about the topics covered in that simple collection -- but none of them have improved on it. By way of example, recently, I've been making holsters. I got Stohlman's book on "How to Make Holsters" -- written like 60 years ago. Today, there are thousands of videos where some genius spends half an hour - sometimes more - droning on about what Al clearly showed in one page

That what I dun said ... .like the old bridgeports ... Bob-- answer yer phone ... been wiling to try that cowboy thread! OH! By the way.. I know I'm the only one prolly would need to be told this... but I put the handwheel on, linin' up the bolt with the groove.. then I always gotta remember to tighten the bolt into the groove! Sometimes, it helps if somebody reminds me stuff like that

On my piece of cobra, I can put the belt on or off without loosening something else. Much like the old bridgeport mills l..

Right you are -- I didn't go down far enough to see that. Actually, I've done it both ways, and I prefer the lining on the ones where the strap is added separately (no loop). The lining helps the skirt to remain flat (or, if you like, with a slight curve put in when you line it).

I might be missing something in that thing Jim put in there. I've looked at it before, but didn't really pay too much attention just yet. So then, in that figure 32, he's talking about NOT lining the entire skirt, but he's actually making an UNlined holster. And when he gets down further, making the LINED holster, it looks like he DID line the entire skirt (figures 87 and 89). Now, a guy could stop the lining where he talks about back at fig 32... and the stiffness I was talking about would be aided by the shaping of the skirt around the body of the holster (much like forming and putting bends in sheet metal makes it more rigid). If you taper the edge of the lining (where it stops) and sew around it as suggested, that would work. The "stop" would be hidden on teh back side, and the stitch line would be hidden behind the bucket of the holster. Hopefully, though, you're burnishing those slots whether they are lined or not - making that part of things a non-issue. Adding - as for "masterpieces"... It's getting that season where time is at a premium... but in the world of holsters made for revolvers, I try not to miss too much of what Josh is talking about

Yeah, I personally like the W/C skirting.. but I do use HO, and for those HO users on teh west coast, seems like a guy'd wanna go pick it up where he can see it if it's close..

If you're using alcohol dyes, that's fairly normal. Without the long-winded poo about particles which aren't absorbed.... the short version is, that 'tint' should buff off.

Makes for a firmer, more solid project, too. This is what I mean -- not just about what "shows". Lining - in this case a holster skirt - helps retain the shape.

Lining not always about visible. But i don't 'finish" the flesh side (though I sometimes dye it).

Any of the die makers listed around here should be able to make that for you easily. Some of them listed below in alphabetical order ... Economy Die Makers (ON Canada) http://www.economydiemakers.com/ Global Die (Auburn, ME) http://globaldie.com/ Intl Die (Clarkesville, GA) http://intdieco.com/ National Steel Rule Die (Vandalia, OH) http://www.nationalsteelruledie.com/ Progressive Service Die Co (No Carolina) http://psdcdies.com/index.html Texas Custom Dies (Mansfield, TX) http://www.usacuttingdie.com/ Should be able to get this "flat" - for use in a clicker press - or with a handle for mallet use.

Should be good for the larger models... don't think I'd personally care for it on a pocket holster, for example, due to the size of the scales.

Lining over the top like that, then yeah -- line it all the way out. Look a bit cheap and unfinished if not. I have, however, made lined "pancake" holsters, where the lining stopped at about the belt slots on teh sides (didn't go all the way to the edges). Didn't see the point of gluing a lining just so you could skive it back off.. so I tapered the edges of the lining down to feather edge, and then glued in between slots. Once the 'pancake' is sewn, the inside is fully lined and the edges arent' bulky.