JLSleather

Thanks for the pic. Might have to scratch my head another minute. Trying not to order BIG piles of stuff I will have to pack up again to move ...

One more "tip" about the set-up..... when using a 25 needle, I would consider 6 per inch the MAX to stitch with, and probably aim at a bit longer stitch than that... 5 or 5 1/2 per inch. Too many holes too close together is called a "tear"

Try to relax - I slow down at sharp turns, too, .. and likely most of us do. And I go quite slow when backstitching, since I'm determined to get at least some work out of this piece of cobra. and it's not so very reliable about stitching back in teh same holes (crap shoot... it may or may not from one time to the next). But on a belt that runs straight for 45" per side, or a holster that has a "turn" with an 8" radius.... Well, ya know what.. second thought.. I should just stay out of alot of stuff around here. No worries

I'm always just dumbfounded when I see all the posts about how slow I can sew with my [ insert model here ] sewing machine. There is no value in being slower. Obviously, you shouldn't do anything faster than you are able to do safely. And I've heard of people learning to use sewing machines with a tennis ball under the foot pedal -- or like I did, just adjust the foot pedal rod so that if I accidentally pushed it down, there was a top limit that I could control. But down the road, seriously... how well do you think that would work at a job interview? Q: What would you say is one of your strengths? A: I can sew a belt R E A L L Y slow! While it's not politically correct to throw you out, you're probably not on the call-back list So why, then, would anyone think it's desirable on a project? Same scenario... Q: "hey Jeff, you use HO grade A leather, design your own, and stitch (usually) with a piece of cobra, just like that other guy.. so WHY should I buy yours instead of his?" A: Cuz I sew it R E A L L Y slow. Like, have a snak between stitches. Again... I've even seen videos made.. like ... LOOK how slow I can go ...! Where's that video Wiz did a while back.. was it guitar straps or rifle slings? Zip, zip, done. Zip, zip, done.

Latest die I purchased was through Tx Custom Dies. Reasonably priced, arrived quickly, geometrically correct, and cuts cleanly. Nice work.

Anybody tried the shark out there? I'd like to see the difference what we's calln "gloss" and what we's callin "matte". ANd I like to know without dropping $200 to find out

Man - tough crowd around here Got some I been meanin' to get back to.. but between house shopping and comparing schools, doctors, and distance to fishin' holes, it's tough to find the time at the moment.... Been a while since I moved - sorta fergot how much a pain that is!

That edge guide really is a nice addition. People make videos these days more for attention than to actually make a valid point, but that would be other "not-Jeff" people. If the thing wasn't a 'plus' for me, there wouldn't be a video That roller thingy that came with the machine isn't entirely useless, but the drop-down model is much more convenient (and less money, if i remember right). I don't mind "clearing up" what I can and where i can, though it does seem quite petty that for two and a half THOUSAND dollars you get to hope that the machine is set up correctly and for information ask questions on a forum from someone OTHER THAN the place you got the machine. I bought a $10 digital stop watch recently, and EVEN THAT came with SOME kind of manual...

I've been using Organ needles. I lack the experience to confirm that they are THE BEST made, but they do stitch well, so there's that. As for the 794 designation, the 7x4 is the same thing, said a different way. There was a chart around here somewhere explaining all of that.. but no idea where it went. They might also say DY3. I got some recently from an ebay seller. Keep in mind, that i ordered from them twice... once I got just what I ordered... the other time I got a different needle (even though I emailed to confirm they were 'LL' points, they weren't). http://www.ebay.com/itm/400730390609?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=670274800837&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT For 277 thread top and bottom, you'll likely want a #25 needle.

Me, too.. I got stuff everywhere. Seems I'm always cleaning and clearing.... even the digital mess. Condensing some stuff, so here's a few of them there small wallet patterns, whatcha kin use when and how you like. Mass produce 'em all day... no worries - no royalties - no kiddin'. CardWallets.pdf

Ah.. I see you been there already You got it covered, except maybe nowadays you should have a "hand made" weaved basket on the bike -- rainbow colors of course.

Did we get this done for him? Sweet!

Yeah, Bob got some thread made and put a cowboy brand on it (ALL those puns entirely intentional - in fact, that was jus funta say). I like that, though... as opposed to most places today have someone else do it, and then say "we" make this ... or that.. Like apparently "everybody does it" is not only an excuse, but some type of honor. So, I haven't tried it as yet. Got me to check though, I didnt right off see anyone else with 346 thread in natura (though for all I know at this point, it could be the same thread someone else calls "wheat" or "sand" or beige....).. Here's the show... http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread.html No trouble, Bob -- no referral discount required. You're welcome

Uhh.. well -- if you was concerned about that, then aguycould put the snap on a separate piece of leather, and then sittch that piece of leather to the leather .... of the mag pouch... so that the snap was trapped between layers. two small pieces... no wider than a mag, square, set snap in it... sew the piece to the pouch.. wrap stsrap on belt and mark positon of other snap end... only sewing you need to do is accessible at the top.

Well, it's just a mag pouch, right? So, what if'n' a fella wazta put a line 16 snap through the front AND a short strap, then put the other half the snap on the other end of the strap, which would be long enough to go around the belt and snap. Two straps - one each side - would let a fella wear it as a inny or a outty. As them MN folks would say.. aguycould do that..

Lookin' good (still!). I usually don't care for that antstreak stuff on a carving, but this looks good - especially with those grips.

Got kids? I'd put a table runner or carving board, or something there - before the kids make sandwiches right there. Purdy sure oxblood is not food-safe

Wait... aint that purdy simple to figure? I mean.. start the machine.. no material.. don't even need a needle. Get it rollin'. Grab the handwheel. If you can stop the wheel, without stopping the machine, then 'you aint in the groove, man"...

Wait ... so you're making a belt for a 1 mo old? With the little ones -- say like usually under 12 or 14 -- I size the same way as always, but I use a short buckle. And by short, I mean length-wise. The length of the buckle is part of the "size" of the belt. Longer buckle put on the same belt equals longer belt. So then, using a short (length) buckle and making the belt fit is a starting point. And it's common to make belts with 5, 6, or 7 adjustment holes, the size being the middle one. When he/she grows the belt can be moved to then next hole. But if you put the name in the middle to begin, then each move of the belt causes the name to move half of that. Other words, gain 1", the name will be "off" by 1/2". So by the time you are "out of holes" on the belt, you "could" replace the buckle with one 2" longer and it would be back in teh middle hole, but the name will be off about 1" - which looks not wonderful, simply. And that's if the buckle is centered.. but see below. SO THEN, you can .. Make the belt to fit now, and when the child grows, make another one and keep this one for the memory. Make the belt with a short buckle, and replace with a longer buckle when needed. In this case, I usually use initials at the tip instead of name in the back. This way, when the kid is bigger and the buckle is bigger making the belt bigger, the "name" is still right where it was. OH, one more thing.. for the placement of the name it MATTERS how the buckle / belt is worn. We would all agree that them big whoppin' trophy buckles get worn centered on the front. But some people wear heel bar buckles (or ranger) or center bar buckles with the bar directly over the seam in the clothing. I know some old jarheads (once a jarhead ...) who haven't been in service for years but still wear a belt with the tip of the buckle lined up with the material overlap, so all teh buckle is to the left of the seam. Been meaning to add that to my little sketch thingie ...

Aw... shoot.. you should make 'em. Just not the ones where ya spend 10 minutes cutting out a holster panel (just cutting it out), or the ones where ya sketch a shape for 5 minutes, while music plays that has nothing to do with what yer doin'... or well --- you get it We got anufa them already.

Not to worry.. these are pretty simple to figure out. My experience with sewing was dating a couple girls who knew how to sew (though, they never actually did it around me - ). Bottom line, if I can do it, YOU can do it!

You would want Stohlmans book(s) on making cases. The three are all good - and volume 2 specifically addresses what you're talking about. Unlike so many these days, I don't see any wisdom in repeating what has already been so well layed out. Guy gives you all you need to lay out a pattern to suit your size and needs... well worth the money. In fact, smart to bookmark the leathercraft library - tons of topics and patterns. Fast, inexpensive, and easy to use. Thousands of articles, blogs, videos, and various social poo posts have been made about the topics covered in that simple collection -- but none of them have improved on it. By way of example, recently, I've been making holsters. I got Stohlman's book on "How to Make Holsters" -- written like 60 years ago. Today, there are thousands of videos where some genius spends half an hour - sometimes more - droning on about what Al clearly showed in one page

That what I dun said ... .like the old bridgeports ... Bob-- answer yer phone ... been wiling to try that cowboy thread! OH! By the way.. I know I'm the only one prolly would need to be told this... but I put the handwheel on, linin' up the bolt with the groove.. then I always gotta remember to tighten the bolt into the groove! Sometimes, it helps if somebody reminds me stuff like that

On my piece of cobra, I can put the belt on or off without loosening something else. Much like the old bridgeport mills l..

Right you are -- I didn't go down far enough to see that. Actually, I've done it both ways, and I prefer the lining on the ones where the strap is added separately (no loop). The lining helps the skirt to remain flat (or, if you like, with a slight curve put in when you line it).