JLSleather

Sweet! Good to see you fellas adaptin' them designs!

Yep, that's it.. doesn't matter what the tool is if it works. Sounds like what I do... fingers opening while it's still in teh water (specially on a lined holster), bone folders, modeling tools, whatever. Teh gun forms the final shape, but I got it open and close to size before I even pick up the gun. As for 'curving', I have about a 18" (or maybe 20", whatever) piece of "belt" that I actually put through the slots when forming... pulls the leather right where it needs to go. And Alex is right.. I see worse offered for sale all the time. Truth is, a lot of those "pro" videos about making holsters are making stuff that doesn't look as good as yours Oh, being that I marked the slot location, I admit it.. I punch 'em out (straight on through from the front side) after allowing the glue to set and before sewing. Then when I sew, I sew the perimeter and along teh slots all continuous.. only stop is to move to the other side of the holster.

Had to alter a bit again. Apparently, some people think that "width" of the slide means side to side when you're holding the gun, and some think that "width" of the gun means the outline when it's laying on the table. Included a sketch, so hopefully it's quite clear now

Oh, yeah.. that trip would take like all day

Yeah, gotta agree that aint a bad firsty Looks like ya coulda wenta little deeper with the rig.. looks like the stitch line had room for it - did ya glue a little high, or just not push low? That, and watch yer 'straightness' on yer stitch lines 'n' slots, and looks like ya got it figgered. In teh pic, the red lines and the purple lines are the same lines.. with the same spacing... which looks like if you shove a bit deeper to your stitch line, then the coverage on teh guard would be just about ideal.

There's a simple 'walk thru' up on the site on how to lay out the shape. This is way simple stuff, and honestly takes longer to write the article than it does to plan the design This one is pocket notebook style in general, but I'll put up some actual patterns from actual projects as they are made (i didn't have one of those cheap little books). http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/pattern-making/leather-pattern-notebook-layout/ SNIKEYS! A simple search returns a BUNCH of this type of thing (who knew people wanted to pay for something this simple). One guy wants $6.00 for a pattern of a piece of leather with a fold and a pocket. Well, I guess they "get" you if you don't know, or don't do some simple research ... Next simple project, maybe I should tag onto that article, something clear about how to add a snap flap to the design. Free is good, right?

Pedestal stand, variable speed, blah blah blah. Little use (still on original sanding drums). Prefer my drill press burnisher.... so this is just setting. In the way. Still Pick up only... fit right in the trunk or truck without issue. No trouble. First $250 ... simple.

Cleaning out around here, now at the next 'stage' Got some gun magazines used for photo purposes. Never used for actual molding, though they certainly COULD be if desired. I'll list these as I dig them out. Shipping depending on how many you need. PayPal works, or I might trade for blueguns in models I don't have. For the moment, I have : PAIR of Colt 1911 .45, never used for anything other than photographing leather mag carriers: $20 PAIR ONE Glock 43 magazine, never used for anything other than photographing leather mag carriers $25 TWO Glock 43 pancake style mag carriers. Almost finished.... just burnish the edge, apply finish, and use or sell. Pay no attention to the green tint from the tree outside the window... these are solid BLACK with BLACK stitching $25 PAIR

"Generally speaking"... http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/pattern-making/leather-pattern-notebook-layout/

The only time you would measure from the fold is if they are replacing their belt and using teh same (or a very similar) buckle. The buckle HAS TO be part of the size. Here's why ... Three belts, all teh same length "to the fold". Changing the buckle changes the size BY THE LENGTH OF THE (inside of the) BUCKLE. In fact, when I make belts for kids, I use a buckle no more than 1" long. That way, when the little boogers grow, you can just swap out a longer buckle. Changing to a 2" long buckle adds 1" to the SAME belt, and lets the little goobers wear them a bit longer instead of outgrowing them SO fast.

I've used those Paasche airbrushes for years. Both have been popular with leather people for a long time (like 40 years that I know of) since they are easy to use, easy to clean, and maintenance and parts are simple and inexpensive, and available almost everywhere. The single action has produced some STUNNING artwork, and I would recommend the extra couple dollars for teh double action ONLY because it's often faster to do some things. I have several of the VL brushes myself. Compressor ... I've tried the Paasche D500 (don't remember which version) but didn't care for it. I found it didn't keep up to speed nearly as well as it claimed to. Instead, I use a simple pancake model from Stanley tools. It IS loud, but it only kicks on a minute or so every so often (depending on how much air you're using). And it blows 20-30 psi smoothly with a regulator, without running constantly. The stuff I spray is sprayed with this set up. FWIW. Also the roses in the DIY section of my site (those roses are airbrushed ONLY -- NOT tooled first). http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/

While I should say that I don't have one of these, honestly I've heard nothing but good 'stuff' about the Cowboy 3200. You might call Bob the sewing guy and ask him if he'd recommend the 3200 or the 227R. As a rule, one of the first questions you'll want to answer,.. what weight of thread do you want to use? I've sewn carved and lined belts with thread sizes 138, 207, and 277. Any of these will hold up on a belt, just a different look. From the following pic, the 3200 is just a tad "heavier" use, and it comes standard with a flatbed you might prefer. Again, I'm just gabbin'.. Bob is the guy!

I been trying to get some of the questions I get asked put down where's a fella could git at it. Aint gotta stop what yer doin ta find a video, and such.. or even get to a web site to read that 'thing' again. So, on my site are some basic principles for makin basic holsters. Aint' gotta the fancy stuff as yet... wont' stop rainin' up this way. Still, a guycould download a pdf in about a minute that would walk a fella right through layin out his own holster. Check it out, download one for later, one for your Ma, all free http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/pattern-making/leather-pattern-holsters/

Yer link got boogered Toney... think it was this one? That big feller takes a bit ta gitta the point, but I speak a little Texan due to friends down that way so I was evenshally ableta foller it

Avenger version of a holster for that same pistol now up and working. Starting a kinda 'index' page at http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/pattern-making/ Download all ya want.. we'll make more .

Well, I'm not opposed to paying and then waiting, entirely. I mean, if you order something from Hermann Oak (for example) you pay, then you wait. Nothing unusual there. But if they had a 3-4 MONTH wait list, ... I'm somewhere else

Well, there ya go... it's not "at its widest point"... but rather at EACH point. The offset is NOT the same at the trigger guard as it is at the muzzle end of the slide. Maybe I should put that in there 'Preciate ya looking at this. This is why I asked for pointers... sometimes the way I say what I mean doesn't mean the next guy follows it! After all, I got married back when and I STILL aint sure what i said that caused that!!! Anyway, if your G19 has a slide width of exactly 1" (for example) then the offset at the slide would be 9/16" (half the slide plus half the 8 oz leather). But the trigger guard is more like .600", so half that and half the leather is about 3/8". Where the frame widens, the trigger guard narrows, so in actual practice.. a guy would get it close and then mold in the difference...

Still not quite right. Scratchin' the head for a minute.. some short way to say the math ...

OH>. now I get ya. Yeah, that should be THICKNESS, not height top to bottom. HOLD ON .. I'm gonna clarify that.. never ocurred to me somebody would see it like that.. which is why I asked

Actually, I was just in there myself, in the process of changing that. Durn thing wouldn't let me do it without changing the file name, so DO GO get the update and delete the file you had (different file name was only way it would go through). Thanks for the pointer! Guess I'll go make changes to the "avenger" style before uploading too WAIT>. you got a G19 that's 1/1/2" thick??

Next file uploaded... laying out your own pancake holster designs. Somebody gonna proof-read that varmint for me? Staring at it way too long for one day... so do let me know if you think there's something else shoulda got added! http://www.jlsleather.com/sdm_downloads/leather-pattern-making-pancake-holster/

Yeah, to be clear -- I wasn't trying to insult anybody. Far as I'm concerned, a grown man sets his own pricing .. no matter to me. In my younger days, I wrote some code for various CNC machines, so I know the routine. Costs something to write the code, then likely costs again for a "set-up fee", price of changing out the toolng and registering offsets, etc. I have a couple of wooden burnishers that seem to do a nice job, so I'm not even actually in the market for one -- just trying to make a helpful suggestion.

Seemed like I needed a little room for future expansion, so that file is not moved over one notch, to here... http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/pattern-making/leather-pattern-notebook-layout/

Glad I could help somehow, Ron.

Yeah, that price seems extreme. Aluminum round stock is about $1 per inch (3/4" or 1" stock) and drill rod is nearly free.. so only cost would be the labor. I've stayed out of that so far since CNC machining would be the way to go -- and I haven't found one of those that is both affordable and worth owning. IF someone knew of a shop who was willing to run some of those after hours (if there is such a thing in manufacturing any more) then I could see $100 for the FIRST one, and more like $30 after the first one - and at $30, a guy could do pretty well. Assuming that a guy already had the drawing decided on, then you'd need to know the type of controller involved to write the code (Haas, Fanuc, etc...) I wonder if that guy I used to know is still working over at the college ... OH>.. and thanks, Trox