JLSleather

I know quite a few people who make between $50k - $70k per year doing basically nothing. They have "jobs", but they do nothing. So, any 'craft' you want to do which requires any skill at all should pay AT LEAST that, PLUS pay for the time you'll spend on marketing, advertising, answering messages of one form or another, selling, and tax prep -- all of which is done FOR those people who do nothing. Oh, don't forget health insurance and vacation pay Leather and leather tools can be pricey, so in the end it seems the only ones making any money (profit margin) is those who make relatively low cost, quick-out-the-door stuff that I wouldn't want if it was free. "Carnival" crap... bought to be fun for the moment and then pitched out. As a carpenter, I'm sure you've seen the ones I'm talking about....

elegant...meticulously.....painstaking....luxurious.... ANything along those lines is fine. Just leave out "rustic", which apparently these days means "we couldn't be bothered to trim, burnish edges, or even pick decent leather".

Actually, .002 is 2 THOUSANDTHS, not hundredths He talks like he jus' wanderin' round wit no idear what he doin', but his pics show the real story.

Me, too, Big Souix. Truth be told, a lot of the youngsters only have them because they're terrified of not having what the neighbor has. You'd think they'd learn how to USE them, though. Many of the patterns purchased in the past year (sites like etsy or ebay) are available FREE if you search. Perhaps those smart phones aren't that smart after all. Oh, wait -- yes they are... they're talking people out of $1,000 per year! I actually walked away from one person who said "hashtag" in a conversation. Just left 'em standin' there ...

http://www.jlsleather.com/sdm_downloads/ruger-lcp-pancake-holster-pattern-download/

I don't mind soundin' like the idiot (again) ... actually quite used to it I just run around blurtin' out what seems to work, and the fellas decide if they like that or not. Sometimes helps to hear a guy goin' on about what DON'T work ...

And long as i'm having coffee for way too long today, I'll add that I am re-working the 'avenger' holster for the 19 (and the 17, 22, 23, 31, and 32). Not just quite happy, hoping to get back to that before long ...

Okay .. well I'll put a 'note' in there, which is not 'mine', but more Gramma's 'trick'. I sometimes line up pieces (not just holsters) and then mark these "end" holes through with an awl. Then take the pieces apart, stitch the top and bottom (in this case) from hole to hole. Then put the pieces back together using permanent contact cement, but LINING UP THE HOLES BY INSERTING A NEEDLE IN EACH ONE. So in teh case of a '50/50' pancake holster, you'd end up with something laying flat with 4 needles sticking up. The tighter the needle fits the hole, the better the alignment, so keep holes small (which, I do anyway) This WILL work, even sewing with a machine. I start these below the rear slot -- doesn't matter just habit, mostly. Sew up around from about 8 o'clock to about 11 (the left vertical stitch line). When you're around the top left corner, pull out the first pin, and 'land' your stitch in that hole to make the turn. Down, and over, and down.. pull another 'pin'... etc. I'm not one who knows sewing, really, but I remember seeing Mom and Gramma put a hem in clothes... they'd pin the thing all around to get it where they want, and then remove pins as they sew. Figured it had to work here too (and it does). NOW, someobody is saying that sounds like a LOT of trouble just for what it does. TRUTH IS, you're talking about a few seconds to make sure everything "works". It actually takes a lot longer to SAY it than to DO it.

Yeah, that This pic may be a bit larger, showing the way to mark the front panel on the pancake. The witness marks are on the ends of the vertical stitch lines. If you start and end your stitching on the vertical lines, then the finished rig will look like the stitching is continuous (though it isn't). Maybe I should split this a bit more. No time to make one today, but maybe I can explain it clear enough. Not finding my pics of this @!#!$#!! With a lined holster, you would stitch these areas before joining the front and back. This is the same step as stitching the top of a 'western' rig before folding. The stitching in the vertical lines would then go back in teh same holes at the top and bottom. On the right, I've "painted" some stitching holes. Mark the first hole on the vertical stitch line. IF NOT using the panel, just end on the other stitch line. IF using the front panel, then stitch to the first hole of the panel (shown blue) by piercing through with your awl and then run the front thread UNDER the panel edge (I've tried it going OVER.. it's not good ). This assumes that you are stitching the panel down and THEN lining the front of the holster, though that isn't absolutely necessary, it would help to protect the stitching. If using a machine, you'd need to do like 3 stitches "by hand" in that area (1 under, 2 back). Oh, that actual distance isn't critical, but I DO recommend a slight 'bevel" on the inside corner of the stitch line, instead of a sharp turn. Takes a LOT of pressure off that corner, and I think helps the holster form a bit easier due to the radius on the frame of the pistol. I mean this... Just a stitch will do it. Makes more difference than ya might think...

We wanna see this "weird" way, and then we'll decide if it's weird or just useful

I work from the inside out. Long as the inside fits, you can alter the outside a bit if you care to. Alex is right -- I wouldn't use heavier than 8/9 on a holster that small - you don't gain anything, and I think it doesn't help the look. Particularly if you're using the front "stiffener" panel -- more than about 9 oz is going to be unnecessarily bulky. If you want to line it, you might go with a 4/5 "outty" and a 3/4 "inny" or a double 4/5. Goat IS quite good, but veg cow will work well too. With a lined holster, you'll likely find that the two layers are pulling against each other and the additional "stiffener" panel is unnecessary. As for lining things up ... I pay attention to the 'witness marks' on the pattern. If the'res a little variation in the way you cut out the front and back, not a problem. And I'll throw in a comment about the stitch line here, since it kinda goes together. I glue as shown on teh pattern, then when the glue is ready I line up the witness marks and stick down (it's possible if Alex has pieces sliding around, maybe let the glue set a tad longer before putting together). Once it's stuck together, THEN I even the edges. Again: I trim up the edges AFTER gluing and BEFORE marking the stitch line around the outside. I like my stitch line a "strong 1/8" in from outside edges, but i want a consistent distance, so I even up the edges and THEN mark teh stitch line (divider or creaser). Maybe doesn't matter, but i mark the stitch line even if I'm using the machine. OH YEAH.. also about lining stuff up .. I don't punch the slots until it's together, then punch through all layers together (I hate lining stuff up too). So, even edges, punch slots, then mark stitch lines around perimeter and up the slots. Lefties, FLIP teh pattern. If you're lining the holster, .....you'll want to stitch all edges. This means that where I show the red lines (right side of P3 instruction) you'll want to stitch all the way from the back stitch line to the front (whether using the front "panel" or not). I often make holsters with the leather dyed before stitching. The exception being if I want the thread to match the holster, I'd likely construct and then dip the finished holster in the dye so it also dyes the (nylon) thread. I tool holsters when asked to (you might be surprised how popular those old Stohlman designs still are). As a rule, I don't prefer them tooled, since it adds considerably to the cost (often whether done right or not ) and you're paying for a design which is intended to be concealed! As a rule, tooled is fine for on the shooting range (may get you some business, too) or for open display. I wouldn't care to carry one, since I don't see it going so well somebody asks can they see your rig Okay, if I forgot something, Alex prolly got 'er covered anyway!

Welcome .. and keep 'em comin'

There's the bottom line right there. I don't mind PAYING PREMIUM prices, long as I'm GETTING PREMIUM leather. This is true wherever I purchase. It does seem like some places rely on people who won't know the difference.

Added Alternate Force $43 guns (quick!) bluegunstore name is easy to remember, but the "free" shipping is added to every gun, so buying 3 means paying the "free" shipping 3 times Bunkhouse Tools They have a few models I haven't found anywhere else. Different look, but they work great. Good service, too. Duncan's Customs Aluminum molds - I like these. $50 guns and $15 mags Holster Smith Index Fasteners $45 ($60 for the "holster ready" mulit-molds), plus they have holster accessories (loops, screws, washers, etc) less $ than many places Knifekits Law Enforcement Targets $40

Alternate Force $43 guns (quick!) bluegunstore name is easy to remember, but the "free" shipping is added to every gun, so buying 3 means paying the "free" shipping 3 times Bunkhouse Tools They have a few models I haven't found anywhere else. Different look, but they work great. Good service, too. Duncan's Customs Aluminum molds - I like these. $50 guns and $15 mags Index Fasteners $45 ($60 for the "holster ready" mulit-molds), plus they have holster accessories (loops, screws, washers, etc) less $ than many places http://www.holstersmith.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=555_563 These last two appear in search, so I listed even though I've never ordered there. http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=41_585_586 These last two appear in search, so I listed even though I've never ordered there. Preferences? I like the Duncans' aluminum molds myself, but if you're determined to use RIngs blue guns then I like Index, due to the selection of other 'stuff' I can pick up in one stop. Also, only takes a minute to do an Ebay search. Occasionally there'll be a guy with one or two used for training and no longer needed. Sometimes find something worth while, just sort by "price plus shipping" and blow past those people who somehow think you'll pay more than $45.

Slight revision made to the 1911 5-inch avenger holster. Sightly different look, same fit. Every 2500 downloads, a fresh look don't hurt http://www.jlsleather.com/sdm_downloads/free-1911-holster-pattern/

Local flooding not good for walleye fishin', but good for the holster boys ('n' girls). RUGER LCP holster getting uploaded shortly - simple 50/50 pancake style holster pattern with an addition to show how easily this can be converted to an 'inny/outty' rig (the LCP lends itself to this well). Obviously, easily done for other smaller handguns. First stage (simple pancake version) uploaded and ready for use! http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/holster-patterns-diy/

I just went through a stack of receipts, saw how many times I got something from down there that I had to return. Yikes! Looks like last time I ordered anything down there was Feb of this year. Paid $150 for a belt bend I had to 'finaggle" to get 3 clean belts out of. They had it down as H.O. "B" grade. Sorry, no rush to get back there.

I don't hand sew with it, but I get thread in those weights from http://www.thethreadexchange.com/

I usually refer to myself as Jeff, but I have others using various terms

If you're making solid color ONE color belts, then certainly pays to use drum-dyed leather rather than dyeing it yourself. Not only a cost savings, but the TIME is greatly reduced, and that's a lot of fumes you AREN'T breathing. Dwight already stated, figure you'll need straps about 10" longer than the finished "size" you need. I buy backs for belts and generally ends up being about $8 per 1" of strap width, so 1.5" is about $12-13 piece. I line mine (with undyed veg tan usually) so that's another $12-13, and then glue, thread, snaps and/or screws,... end up with $26 NOT including cost of the buckle you choose.

Re: needle size to thread size. Keep in mind that not all needles are created equal. Two different manufacturers (or even the same manufacturer) may make - for example - a size 24 needle with a different hole size, point geometry, etc. Two needles can BOTH be 794 series and size 24 yet be considerably different. I wouldn't carve needle sizes in stone.. just a place to start - like how hard do you strike a punch (answer: hard as you need to). Red has been on about poly thread for a while now. I tried poly thread (and still have some) but I prefer the nylon. From what I have read, the "advantage" of poly thread seems to be a bit more resistant to UV -- other words less likely do decay due to direct sunlight. This is not a new concept -- my monofilament fishing line has the same issue -- but it doesn't disintegrate over night. So, I largely (not exclusively) use nylon thread. This week I had opportunity to see a tooled handbag I made over 25 years ago -- does NOT need re-stitched Having said that, I've always liked Red's holsters, which appear to me to be both solid AND attractive. Incidentally, my post above must have been 'fat-fingered'.. it should have ready that i prefer LL point needles. The stitch is much straighter, and tighter with the same tension setting. QUICK PIC of the difference, both stitches were done without changing the stitch length or tension... Note that the black stitch on the right (LR point) appears longer due to the angle - it is the SAME stitch length as the left side.

Incidentally, if somebody got this same view on a Cowboy machine and cares to send it, I'll put it on my site for FREE viewing by all.

I had a video on my computer at one time, must have deleted it after deciding it wasn't my responsibility to answer for questions from someone ELSE'S customer But, to spare you the pain of enduring over an hour of what-have-ya over a simple question, we'll use this one. Well, actually, a small sliver of this one. FF the second video to about 14:30 on the time (slide the red dot on teh timeline). This will show you the "end view" of that machine so you can quickly tell if your problem is in the timing of the needle. No need to turn on the machine and shatter something, just turn the wheel by hand. Note the position of the needle and the the position of the shuttle and presser foot (you can turn the sound off it you like, may help). Looks like about 14:32 the needle is about bottomed out. The hole in the needle is a little lower than the hook. The hook is rotated left and the (outer) presser foot is coming up (center foot coming down with the needle). Continuing, the needle begins to rise and the hook rotates clockwise until about 14:34 the hook arrives to pick up the thread and the presser foot is all the way up. By 14:37 the thread is sweeping the hook assembly and the presser foot is down again

exactly. Goes for anything really... easier to learn it right the first time than try to "unlearn" the wrong way. Now, that said, there is some variation in what people consider the "right" way -- not everyone does the same things. I DO think you'll want to get away from belly leather, especially for tooling (NOT the same as the back or shoulder). I'm the guy who NEVER recommends throwing money at books, classes, tutorials, or even burning up time on youtube poop-orials (EVERYBODY got one these days, most of them say nothing). STILL, I DO recommend the new guys git a copy of Stohlman's Tech Tips. Available by digital downloadable file, inexpensive, and got info in there you could learn form for a LONG time.