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JLSleather

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  1. JLSleather
    Package #2 is 7" x 7" x 37" (except where it's bulging ) and weighs somewhere between 13-14 pounds (too much for my little scale).
  2. JLSleather
    Package #1 is 7" x 7" x 17" and weighs just under 6 lbs -- may help give an idea of shipping charges.
  3. JLSleather
    Oh, I forgot to mention... I take PayPal, or you can bring cash and pick it up (which is even better, actually -- and likely to get you some more free stuff! ).
  4. JLSleather
    Starting to drag the stuff out and see what's there. Check teh for sale section... crazy good price if you got a use for this. Two batches pictured.. likely have one more in there somewhere!
  5. JLSleather
    I want to note that this leather is not the same firm, great looking leather I use (hence the 'dump'). Even where it is long enough, this leather is NOT suitable (in my opinion) to be used for belts (or straps which will take significant stress). Should be fine for pet collars, wristbands, backing exotic leathers, stiffeners, inserts and welts, verifying patterns, etc.
  6. JLSleather
    Next --- round 2... This is closer to 20 feet (retail $200)... the squares on teh floor are 13"x 13". Again, $50 + shipping
  7. JLSleather
    This is the first wave... cleaning out around here. Ice breaking on the river today, meaning walleyes in about 2 weeks ... The longest piece is nearly 6 feet long. Pull it together (touching) and you got about 13 sq feet. Rows individually are about 9" wide, 8.5", 6", and 7". Leather is 7/8 oz. Black is very flat color, but a little damp and it DOES buff up. Scratches and wrinkles here and there. Retail at W/C would be about $130-140. Truth is, I wouldn't pay that if I had seen it, and don't really even care to do business with anyone who would have this in the "premium" pile. Whatever -- done deal now. That said, I'd take $50 and shipping.
  8. JLSleather
    Did anybody else notice that I switched the male and female parts of the snap? PLUS, where's jason? If there ever was a spot for a flat-back holster, this is it
  9. JLSleather
    Makes a fella hungry don't it, Josh... lookin at that wet noodle I mean
  10. JLSleather
    Print the page. Measure the 9" line to make sure it's 9" long center to center. Fold and crease on fold line. Make another crease about 3/16" each side of the fold line (you should end up with a piece of paper shaped a bit like a very thin book, or notebook). Make a mark on the paper about 1/4" up from the bottom of the pattern (not bottom of the paper). Cut out the top of the pattern (remember to leave the right side tab long where shown). Place the gun with the trigger guard in the fold. Note where the gun grip meets the paper - you want to adjust up or down so that the gun muzzle is close to your mark you made near the bottom of the pattern. Close other side of paper (you can tape it if it helps). With the gun parallel to the straight side of the holster, cut the bottom curve to suit your taste. Cutting them together guarantees a left/right match. Now, if you're happy with the way that "sits", then it's just a matter of cutting your leather from that. Then use your paper pattern to make another "half" which you'll put slots in.
  11. JLSleather
    1911_poo_R2.pdf Maybe that's better. This thing prints on ONE sheet of paper -- so no trouble there. Measure the line between the circles .. make sure you got 9" (which means it's right). Make sure your printer is set to "actual size" or 100% or whatever yours says (NOT "scale to fit").
  12. JLSleather
    That's an extra piece stitched to the back (which appears to be much too thin and 'mooshy' to be safe (or even intelligent). But how big are the slots? I know he wants it to be able to do everything (perhaps including holding coffee?) but I don't like slots cut bigger than the strap. I've never used a SOB holster (like worn in the pic) and I'm not going to --- but "slop" in the slots I would think would be even worse with that use. Far as adding slots, just a matter of intelligent guess. I'd say those angled slots are about 20° off level ... Here's a re-make. I raised the top of the leather a bit to ride the grip like the picture, and I also lowered teh openeing under the trigger guard a bit, just eye-ballin' the picture. In actual practice, guy might cut some leather the right thickness, about 1/2" too wide. Fold in half, and set the gun in the fold (at the trigger guard). then just push the ends together and make a bit of a crease where they come together. That's where the stitch line goes. Another stitch line 1/8"- 3/16" past that, and the edge 1/8'-3/16" beyond that. Oh, wait.. I'll put a 'center line" in there.....
  13. JLSleather
    Nothing to apologize for The 'tension screw' is that little thing on the corner.. probably has a rubber gasket between there (much like a washer on a bolt). Ordinarily, this is done so you can adjust the tension on the gun. The way this one is placed, it likely doesn't do anything other than decoration. I'm sure one or more of these boys can tell you where to get the best price on those if you decide to use one. Or maybe somebody just send you ONE? As for how to use this pattern.. purdy simple. VERY easy if you have the gun to work with. I usually put it on there, and this time didn't -- but I'd make that outta 7/8 leather, and that's what the lines are drawn assuming. It looks like theirs was thinner, but a full-size 1911 needs a little something to hold it ...
  14. JLSleather
    OH.. well, to make my sketch work, raise the middle (center arc) by about 3/4" .. since apparently it's the leather up the grip that keeps the rig from falling through.
  15. JLSleather
    Yep, different process But we don't largely want to hear actual facts around here ... much better to have someone pat us on the head and tell us we're doing good. Maybe stems from so many people's fear of actually sharing something useful (but I'm just guessing)?. Who knows... maybe I shouldn't guess before the coffee is ready?
  16. JLSleather
    Well, I certainly aint seeino way what keeps that varmint from cuminout the bottom end, do you? Otherwise, if'n that's a 5", I'd be fer figgerin' this here'll do it, or least ways purdy close Feller would hafta figger where to put teh tension screw (from preference) and where to locate the rivet hole, depending on IF you used a metal thumb break stiffener, otherwise .....
  17. JLSleather
    Sig P938 Avenger download up on the site now. $0.00, + tax if you're in IA
  18. JLSleather
    Nice.... good to see a guy jump in and start - that's where the REAL learning comes from. I WOULD agree that the book is worth having, but in the end you learn it by doing it. And long as the molds are dimensionally correct, that's one step from stealing Pitted composite, or trigger that didn't mold in all the way, or sight that didn't form so great .. so what?@#!@#!! Good find!
  19. JLSleather
    What IS all that in the back I guess that's supposed to be able to be worn in space or under water I'd ask him where he wants to wear it and start with that.
  20. JLSleather
    Yeah. So, you would agree that a (50/50) pancake holster is tighter on the belt than in the hand, or not? I mean, where you do think this 'tighter' is coming from? SOMETHING is moving... where do YOU think it comes from? A couple of points you may or may not care about... This video was uploaded actually to make fun of some folks who thought they knew something about holster retention. Listen, and you can hear my pneumatic chair bouncing and me trying not to laugh out loud And this one (not the same holster) is for the shield 9mm. Looking from the front, the seam is clearly center. Now, when you push that front slot IN toward the body, what do you suppose happens to that space in front of the weapon? This of course is less noticeable on an obese person, since on a slim person the holster curves MORE.
  21. JLSleather
    Got a picture of that? I think if you look down at a pancake holster from the top you'll see my point.
  22. JLSleather
    I see my site is down this morning. "Should" be back running shortly. Reason I put that here . I'l be uploading a good number of FREE holster patterns over the next 2-3 weeks as I get time. I'm taking a break from holster making for a while -- truth is I have other skills which pay better But the patterns should be available... always like to see folks improving their leather skills. NOTE: wrinkles do not belong on leather holsters.. not even on the back side Nope, site still not fixed. In the mean while, the patterns over at cutesy have been reduced to $2.75 ea.
  23. JLSleather
    If you have the "dummy", and no objection to sending it, I'd be willing to make your pattern and return both. Up to you...
  24. JLSleather
    You mold a site channel in a "traditional" pancake? uhh.. okay ....
  25. JLSleather
    Well done, Stewart. I like the holster, and also your angle on holsters! Sometimes leather folks forget that even though we like the leather to be 'purdy', that is NOT the point. Some will say the point is the $600 - 1500 gun IN the holster, but that's not the point either. Personally, I'd have to look that one up.. don't think I've ever had one in my hand. How close are they to the bulldog?
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