JLSleather

The handwheel will be a bit hard to turn, as you said. Built in brakes... keeps it from running on when you lift your foot, basically. As for the shredding, you do know there are different styles of needles? Around here, folks tend to talk of a size - say like #22 - as if that were the end of the conversation. But a #22 can come in a wide range of needle point geometry and hole size and shape. The next #22 may not work the same as this #22. I don't have the consew any more, but I used a #18 for #69 thread, a #22 for 138, and a #23 for #207 thread. You might consider also picking up some spare bobbin cases for that thing. They're cheap (like $5-ish) and makes it really handy to swap thread size. Keep one or two - I'm talking about the bobbin CASE, not the bobbin - for #69 thread. Keep others for #138 thread, or #42, or whatever you're using. This avoids changing the tension spring for different sizes. Once you set it, next time you want to use #138, just put a bobbin in your "138 case", and go....

Thanks fer tha hollah I gotta say, though, that looks purdy good fer a "fail" !#!#@!

I'll send you a message (red number top your screen).

That's a broad question. Gonna depend on the pockets you want to use. A belt needs to fit the waist, and a holster needs to fit the gun, but wallets can be any size / shape you care to make. I sometimes make one that folds vertically - some might call it a 'roper' (whatever that is). 7 1/2" wide x 7 1/4" high, then pockets 3 1/4" wide, leaving room for cash/cards/stuff, and leaving "about" 1" between the pockets for the fold.

Just a "dimple" with a stylus, or the point end of a modeling tool. Close enough to the edge so that the edger removes it. Don't mark on the grain side of the leather with a pen! You can mark the EDGE of the leather with a pen if the holster is dark, but basically that black ink mark is just so you can SEE it in the pictures. Ink might penetrate too deep to remove by sanding, and a marker is even worse. Course, if the holster is all black, mark it how you like

Yeah, my first one was NOT funny. SO not funny, I pitched it before anyone saw me with it Still, git in there 'n' practice - that's how it's learned. My Mom has never ruined a holster. Know why? CUZ SHE DONT MAKE HOLSTERS!!! Guy asked me a while back, how long before you stopped makin' mistakes. Told him "I'll let you know".

How do blue guns ordered from NY, shipped to IA, somehow end up in CA?

Yep, still sitting here in a sealed box. Looks like post office just a tad cheaper than UPS. Says $14 and change, but I think it would fit in a med. priority box for $12. Since it aint worth $2 for me to unpack and repack, I'll just eat the couple $ So, call it $50 total and I'll ship it to Houston

Did you call those people? I think that's what you paid for ... the 'support after the sale'. Top of the page says 866 962 9880, so I assume that's still correct.

The web site no longer valid? Doesn't work as of 1/8/16

4' x 2' is 8 sq feet. At $130, that's $16.25 per foot. W/C backs (sides minus that crap belly leather) for under $10. Comparing to the bend, a back is the bend plus the single shoulder.

Rings, Duncan's, or MM are fine. Guns and dummy mags both. Got some collecting dust? Maybe duplicates? Holler me a message... maybe something we can work out.

Hermann Oak and/or Wickett & Craig. The H.O. is a bit pink when natural, teh W/C tends to be more pale (though not white). Both tool very well.

I generally cut them about 60" from the butt end.. cut the whole shoulder off. This way you can use the shoulder area for other things... holsters, pet collars, coasters, embossing "fillers", etc.... If you ONLY want to make belts, ask W/C to sell you BACKS instead of sides, and you can likely sell the entire shoulder you cut off. A standard size back likely make about 16-18 11/2" wide belts.

I've hung up this shingle before, but since you asked .... These are ALL done with #24 needles and 277 thread at about 6/in. The two straps (side by side) were sewn in the direction of teh arrow (material moving away from you). The LL point (my personal preference) leaves a nice straight stitch line, pulls in tight. The LR point angles the stitch a bit. Note it makes the stitch look "longer", though it isn't. Also doesn't pull as deep at the same tension. Underneath pic is just to show the spacing. Again, that's #24 and 277 (nylon).

'Preciate ya fellas. Don't s'pose i kin sell ya on the idear I made that hawk myself ....

Thanks, fellas. Requests for the Bobergs seem to come in batches. And Rohn - that 'little' hawk is about 18" high. Have to check before my daughter's puppy goes out in the yard!

Boberg XR9-S holster and carry belt, as requested. 20°, RH, 1.5" slots, Black/Black, w/basket weave belt. Oh, plus one of that woodpecker that keeps snooping around my back yard ..

If you're careful, a cylinder machine will make the curve on all but the smallest holsters.

Nope, I think ya waz right... files moved since this thread started. I updated the other thread, but forgot about this'n.

Which links? Try the ones under my post (below)

Looks like you "smooshed" it out by stitching it down. I generally leave holsters open at the bottom, even if it's only a little. Maybe try stitching where the last inch or so is stitched decoratively, then stitch the layers together from there.

The designs and the tooling look great, but you didn't tell us what you're making!

That's a nice looking belt