JLSleather

OnS is correct - that IS confusing. I'm in IA (one of the states listed) and my 'fed tax id' IS my SSN. I also have a sales tax permit which is NOT the same number. I've never shopped at weaver - just clarifying.

Can't tell from that pic. But it shouldn't be on there.

There's no reason for that -- it's unacceptable. Unless they gave it to you, I'd send it back.

I'll send ya wunna them in the morning.

I talked with a rep about this, and told 'em if I wanted to call HO I would have already done that.. but I called W/C to see what we do to fix this problem. Maybe the only way around it is after the first of the year, just take a trip out to PA and pick it myself.

Maybe you're in Ohio? Prices you mention are close enough to new... I'd call Bob and ask about the 206RB-5, or maybe the Cowboy 227R . He can tell you the difference. I know the Consew, and I still regret letting mine go. Dependable machine, wide range of stitch lengths, sews 3/8"+ well, and I used thread sizes 42 to 207 without trouble.

Just FYI, without going clear into that, english bridle is also "veg tanned". If you're going to tool or stamp the belt, then go with carving leather (sometimes called skirting, or tooling leather). If you are looking for a great belt that will look nice and wear basically forever, go with the english bridle. As always, keep in mind not all leathers are equal. Wickett / Craigs "formula" might not be the same as someone else's, so "english bridle" from one may not be like the next. One more consideration.. it would be very difficult to dye the bridle leather. So either purchase that in the color you want, or get the skirting leather to color it yourself.

Thanks, Boss

Them cobra and cowboy things the same way, but not NEARLY as smoothly ...

You fellers is all fancy like. I waz thinkin more long the linza a 1x2 long as the table is front to back, and a couple o c-clamps....

Did I post pics? Did I take all I meant to? Is that the beginning of an infestation? Man, I could use a break!

Sorry -- finally gettting around to some of this. It's worse than I thought, though. I cut the shoulders off of backs when they come in -- don't like shoulder wrinkles. Buit this is beyond that... I'll have to go through with a closer look, ... and maybe a call to Wickett/Craig to tell them if this is the best they have then I guess we're just done. Another guy in the area came by and picked up some of the tooling leather, but I do still have some HO in 7/8 or 8/9. And some english bridle in 9/10 that looks nice. Some of the smaller "bits", somebody can have for the shipping...OR that kid can come get it some afternoon.. either way. I just need to clean up around here so I can function (I'm a bit of an organization NUT).

Cool. ... IMPROVE and adapt! I gotta P250 to make myself... got half way in and got reminded it's for the compact... oh, well My own fault for taking orders after I said it was vacation time!

Coming soon: Avenger style for the M&P Shield, and 3" 1911

Lookin' good there With all the Christmas stuff winding down maybe I can get back to laying out more of these!

Welcome, Johnny! Maybe summa you boys kin improve on 'em and/or adapt them to other models Hopefully with a little sharing info, we'll all get a little better!

I'm quitting shortly... two more orders to get through.. and a long over due break! So, this will be you folks' problem for a while. Just to get you started, here's a quick 'n' dirty pattern to give you something to do for now. Yes, I know I could put it on the web site, but honestly can't be bothered at the moment MP425_P1.pdf

I might have called them. Once. Truth be told, it's not MY responsibility to make sure some ELSE hires decent people. If you hire people who don't know that they're doing, that's YOUR issue. New year coming, and already i'm making more changes. I'll be ordering from places who DIDN'T send me the wrong item, or a lower grade than I paid for, or the wrong weight. Life is way too short to be accountable for someone ELSE'S mistakes.

Signs of the times. Instead of spending your time improving your skills, just spend that time convincing people that your poo isn't poo.

There kaint be too many guns left down there without chief slings on 'em

FREE download for the pattern, makes the 1911 single stack mag pouch available now. The pre-cut leather to make these is available in an etsy store.

Most of em are pretty simple. I don't like the idea of multiple pieces, as a rule, but it can be and IS done safely. But IF you're using more than one piece, I'd recommend stitched together. Buckles add weight, can come apart, and can cause glare and noise which both scare game. For those "cobra" style flared straps, "standard" is between 41-44" long over all -- so the longest adjustment is about 38" between swivels. Stock swivels often 1" wide, so the ends of the strap tapered to about 7/8" wide doesn't hurt a thing. Then just a matter of a screw on each end to make it adjustable. Common to see a suede "patch" on teh back, though the value of that depends on the type of leather you're using. With veg tan tooling leather, you aren't gaining anything (tip: the back is already suede), but I find it's a plus on english bridle, which can be a bit slippy on the back. Alternately, you can make a 1" straight strap, and then add a "pad" that slides on teh strap.

Okay, anybody ever thought the stitch length could be just one notch longer.... but when you moved the switch to make it longer without looking, you turn it the wrong way and made it SHORTER? Yeah, didn't think so. Me, neither... jus' checkin'

You might check on local zoning laws. Some places won't allow you to put even a trailer on the lot.

You decided to make the strap part of the loop/panel on the front, but not on the back. It likely would work better the other way around. But your loop design leaves the portion over the belt quite thin -- you may want to alter that anyway. On straps which are a single layer thick, and NOT tooled, leave teh strap long as you want and trim it. Doing it this way will eliminate headaches from leather being a bit thicker or thinner than "last time". But what if the holster is lined? Or tooled? In those cases, the length of the strap needs to be pretty close to begin with. In the picture (which is a 686) the entire holster is lined, meaning the top edge had to be sewn completely. The thumb break is placed slightly higher than I normally might, because it's a revolver with a considerable hammer. I want to clear the hammer, have enough "room" above to easily catch with a thumb (high in back ONLY) and I don't want the cylinder clipping the snap. But the issue becomes, how do you line the holster, but have folds in the holster, the belt loop, and the thumb strap -- all without wrinkles in the holster or the lining.