JLSleather

That looks like a line 16 "segma" snap. But I'd be willing to hear about the casing, too. "Casing" is one of those terms people like to throw to appear to sound like they know something. Like "burnish" and "walk the tool". I can tell if something was tooled wet. I can tell if your leather is currently too wet. But I don't believe ANYone can tell you HOW LONG it's been wet.

Shucks .. 1000 downloads of the 1911 patterns. S'pose that means i gonna hafta upload sumthin newta work on!

Swivel knife and a beveler? https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1002-basketweave-dice-cup-by-gerald-poissonnier-series-9d-page-12.aspx

Theoretically, THE best belt strip is right along (and parallel to) the spine. Oh, and with the "holes" end from the butt end of the cow. So, for belt leather, I order backs. You can order bends, which is a back minus teh single shoulder, but since you make holsters, you might get the backs --- and then you cut the shoulder off, make belts from the bend and holsters from the shoulder (and they are from the same hide, so they match!).

It sounds like you may need to stitch it twice. Stitch, form, allow to dry, antique (if you must!), allow to dry, cut stitching out and re-stitch. Poly thread may resist the antique better than nylon, but I don't see white stitching staying white either way. I have cut the stitching and re-stitched a few times -- but there is a proportionate price increase, too.

That looks pretty wide. How far from clip to clip? You'll likely find people who can't use that.

nice colors .. stitchin' lookin' good too! I can tell you my first holster didn't look nearly as trim as yours

That wallet is certainly thinner leather than 3 oz.. more like 1 1/2 oz. And realistically, if somebody already made a pattern for something similar, it may save a guy some time to spend a few bucks to get the pattern. But, I certainly wouldn't spend the time i saved watching a video that's over an hour. Patterns should come with instructions how to use them. Useless if they don't come WITH that.

I like a LL point - and usually use a 24 needle and 277 thread. Robert got me doing it that way, and I like it. I've tried variations, but usually end up with that.

Those work pretty welll --- and that's about HALF teh price you usually see them at.

Well, before the experts arrive, you might check WHERE they are longer. If they are longer from the mounting screw down, that's a problem. If the extra length is at the top, that shouldn't be a concern. But I agree -- I wouldn't alter the machine to suit some different feet - if it runs fine with the "originals". I used to have one of those machines, and it ran quite well for quite a while. When I sold it, it was just for the floor space, still ran great. In fact, I consider getting rid of it a mistake, which I'm blaming the wife for (if she would have leased me a bigger shop, I'd have room for more )

Is it LONGER, or is it simply hitting SOONER? http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/206RB-5.pdf

I helped somebody?!#$R!@!! Cool

Sweet Hey, if it's open season, do you need a tag to take rifle slings down yer way, or just a checkbook!

Depend on the size or the cover. and whether you'll use a gusset piece of just sew the zipper to the outside piece. I usually use a 4/5 oz gusset, #5 brass zipper tape, and 7/8 oz main body leather.

Couple things to keep in mind: Used in moderation, neatsfoot won't darken your leather significantly. Many finishes do affect color shades (and reflection) somewhat. Not all H.O. leather is created equal (that's why there are various grades).

Thanks - always like seein' what others came up with from 'em. Looks good (I've always liked that contrasting stitch!).

Personal preference with alcohol or oil dyes. I've dyed the leather at the very end, and I've also used drum-dyed leather that was already colored before I cut it out. Both work fine. With some of the stains and water-based products, I've seen some that I think made a difference in the order. But I don't use those, so I was basically taking someone else's word for the way it was done.

Agreed. I don't like to replace things that aren't broken. Plus, that $3k you aren't spending on that, pays for quite a few dies! If I was making 100 of the same thing (at a time) then the speed benefit would add up. But to cut two of these and 5 of those, just not worth the 4 minutes you'd gain. But realistically, it's not just the cost of the machine.. it's how much floor space, and am I going to have to wire in for 220v-3phase.. blahblah...

Oh -- I like good looking projects. It should be attractive and appealing. But I buy things that DO something - and not just leather. If it doesn't DO anything, then it's useless and I won't have it around. You could ask [quite a few] old girlfriends Rule around here.. I like it CLEAN. And if I have to move something more than twice to clean under it, and I didn't need it in between, then it's GONE. Colorful or not colorful isn't really an issue to me, but if I ask "what does it do?" or "what is it for?" and the answer is 'to look at'... GONE. Oh, and there are a few more descriptions that will get things "gone" but maybe not worth posting here

http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/206RB-5.pdf

Yes. Doesn't do all that much good to immobilize one and not the other. But, like I said, mine "float". Faster would be nice, but I simply can't justify $3k (or more) to gain some seconds.

Over 900 Probably more than 25 of them from here

OOOOOPS Looked right at the laser, said "Colt" on the side of it, and the "LM" didn't sink in! Nice find, Snubbyfan -- at that price it's likely worth a shot. I got a pocketlite aluminum, but no laser.