JLSleather

I hadda look it up.. don't think I ever held a colt laser Lookin at the thing, it wouldn't fit the XSP, so it hadda be the pocketlite. I gonna step outda way and let somebody answer this, but I'm guessing you gonna need the gun.

What happened? Did you figure out it doesn't stitch back in the same holes? Or were you thinking that they somehow forgot to include a manual? Wait. were the bolts missing, so you can't bolt it to the base?

About any brand of "antique" dye or finish can do that. More likely that piece was purchased already like that.

Actually, I used the term "float"... but nothing to do with pushing bearings, chubby girls, anything like that. These presses are far from precision machines -- they wander a bit on the slide. You can move teh top bar forward / backward some (try it and you'll see). These are not precision machined dovetails. So, to avoid having a die BURIED in the cutting surface on one end and barely getting through the material on the other end, I allow it to 'float". You "could" bring the press down on both upper and lower plates, and then weld them in place with some pressure on it. And if you're going to weld them in, that IS how I would recommend doing it... so teh plates come down parallel (ish) and aren't putting twisting pressure on dies that can be expensive. And weld the bottom bar support in place right then also. BUT like i said, the top may not come down quite the same way next time.. so that's no guarantee. Perhaps teh best way to describe it... maybe to look at Red's C-clamp. Does it have a ball-socket pivoting surface on one end of the screw? THAT is what I'm talking about.. allows the pressure to be in line even if the surface isn't .. quite. Perhaps "self-leveling" would be a better term?

I almost forgot how much work went inta them varmints ...

I have slot punches that are about 3/16" wide. I say 'about' because they have a necessary draft angle to avoid plugging.. so they're a bit wider the higher up.. so by the time you burnish inside the slots, you got about 1/4" - which is PLENTY wide, even for a 1/4" thick belt. As a rule, the more material you can leave there, the more strength (I've seen some that were cut so thin that what was left was just plain floppy). Side note, that's also the reason why my stitch lines go the way they do ... I mean, I like the look, but really it's about strength and stability. Oh, slot or 'bag' punches.... I had the one for the slots in the picture done at texas custom dies, and my friend Robert said he liked the ones he got at Weaver Leather. Both a bit over $60, but they work a long time without losing an edge.

Actually, I think it's a layout issue. The order of steps you have should work just fine.. you're just putting your stitch line to far out. You'll need to suck it in up against the trigger guard, and then the process will be fine. What you do is basically the same as I do, except I generally stain after the form. Fact is, looks like you're on the right track.. suck those stitch lines in a bit, and maybe a little less wide on the slots. Do you have some gun molds you can use, or the actuals? There are some patterns on my site you can download free (translate $0.00). Not that you have THOSE exact guns, but if you can get hold of the molds, cost you about what -- maybe $10 to make a holster with one of those patterns. This way, you can see the way I laid out the stitch line and what that does to / for the fit. This one is done 1) cut out pattern 2) glue 3) sand edges 4) stitch 7) burnish edges 6) wet mold 5) stain 7) burnish edges 8) apply finish That fits a 5" 1911 from Colt, Springfield, RIA, Ruger, Wilson, and maybe some others

Anybody got a Glock 42 with LaserLyte?

Yeah, some of the things that pass these days is.. well-- not my favorite I don't get to carve much as I used to, but somewhere along the line I decided if I never sold another chunk of leather, I'd still tool anyway!

Nope. But you might have better luck from somebody who does if you put down what kinda laser. Oh, and which mustang? They make a pocketlite and an XSP, trigger guard is quite a bit different.

Sweet If you're within 1/2", just tell 'em push away from the table occasionally!

This is exactly what I was thinking. If they can't be bothered to answer a request for information leading to a sale, then how good is their service and response time going to be later, when they are NOT making a sale?

The secret is... there's NO SECRET Measure around where you want to put the belt, then give me the number. Simple. I don't know HOW people mess that up, but they do. The first post is for leather people, though - not the customer. Once you DO have the right number, it matters what buckle you're using. Say someone measures their belt and tells you it's 35" from the fold to the hole they use. That's fine IF you're using the same buckle or a similar one. But take off a buckle that's 1" long, and put on a buckle that's 4" long, and now you have a belt that is 3" too big!

Yep. I'm not seeing where people who "never" get a bad size are making too many belts. That's like a carpenter who never hits his thumb with a hammer. You know who NEVER hits his thumb with a hammer? Someone who doesn't use a hammer! That's like a leather worker who "never' gets a cut.

Yep, should be fine as long as you realize that the 22 is about half an inch LONGER than the 23 (well-- like 13 mm I think). The 23 WILL work. The 22 will protrude out the end unless you extend it. The 21, I don't honestly know

The correct answer is Tuesday. We should all stop cutting ourselves on Tuesday

Thanks fellas. I personally never liked that design as well as some others from that book - always thought the holster could have been la little more form-fitting, and the carving struck me as a bit sparse (whatever that means). Still, had a gentleman wanted THAT holster, and even sent me a picture from a web site showing a 4 oz bottle of Fiebing's dye with saddle tan "sample swatch". This guy knew what he wanted!

Yeah, basically right billy. That pattern is from "How to Make Holsters", which has been around longer than me. Pretty much right off the page - shows just how that border is done. And Chief, thanks for the comments - and what ARE you doing up at that hour!

Every so often I still get asked about one of these (original art by A. Stohlman). This one requested with the unchanged carving, but with saddle tan base color and chocolate background and natural thread.

Downloads at 850 .. but that's just for the 2 variations of 1911's.

This is a great response. No BS from him. No BS from you. Since it's "matching", there shouldn't be any confusion on the finished look. Pricing is your own thing, but keep in mind a set of bags can eat up a few hundred $$ worth of leather in a hurry.

We've been here.. sent messages, but they may have hit a cold front north of the twin cities and got stalled on the way to you Collar looks good.. very trim.

Okay, enough already. Just HOW MANY of them things did Glock sell !#@!@#$!@!!!

Just FYI, in case you have con-men-tractors down your way applying siding (like here). On the odd chance you didn't already know, your building should be water-tight BEFORE the siding goes on (house wrap is awesome). That pink "fan-fold" crap is just that.. crap. Just so you don't let somebody "sell" you that the siding is for preventing water penetration. We got central air up here, and I think it's set for about 35% humidity, which seems to work just fine.

YEAH.. please DO use it. Perhaps we can get a bit more quality leather work going around... and a bit less poo attached to a fancy story and pointless (droning) youtube video!