JLSleather

I"m with Constabulary. For what you describe, you're going to want something that sews with like 92 to 20 thread. A flat bed machine is likely fine, but if you can get that size range in a cylinder, some of them include removable work tables (or can be fitted with one) for extra versatility. And reverse is awesome

Yeah, something to be said for repetition -- and organization. I know I could put out more holsters if I didn't tool belts. Some time gets used up (not wasted, but used) putting these tools away and getting "those' tools out, and then back again. Even though the tools aren't actually moved, there is a shift in focus which does cause a bit of slow down - each time. True of most projects, but just using holsters as an example... certainly a guy can't do 5 holsters in a day, start to finish. Simply because they won't dry quickly enough.. the water, the oil, the finish, etc... all takes time. But a guy CAN cut out (or click) 20, mark as needed, add any snaps / springs / etc. Then day 2, glue, stitch, form Day 3.. oil / finish Day 4 package and ship. Doing this - or something like this - can comfortably work out to 5/ day average. Same thing with tooling belts. Cut strips, tips, mark sizing, pair with hardware, put up unused hides. Tool 4-5 Tool 4-5 Tool 4-5 Dye / stain / oil all 15 line and stitch all 15 pack n ship And there you have a 2-per-day tooled belt thing. Now, I'll stop talking about that - since it's been a good while since I got an order for 15 tooled belts, and it's incredibly upsetting

Leather people are funny, though they're not the only ones. Long speeches about how it's all "hand made" or "hand crafted". Then they spend thousands of dollars on machines and equipment and its - somehow - still "hand made" My personal opinion, if someone clicks out parts, machine stitches 'em, press forms 'em, then the 'hand made' is gone. With that happening, then the 'solo' person is doing the same thing as Galco or any other manufacturer.... but Galco (one example) just does it BETTER than they do. A clicker WOULD absolutely speed things up. Straight cuts can easily and quickly be made with a knife, strap cutter, etc., but the more curves involved the more the clicker will aid the process. The [possible] downside being that the more you try to conform your designs to fewer dies, the more alike they become, and soon your "gallery' of finished goods looks very 'cookie cutter' -- and there goes the 'hand made' scam. just a note, and a 'plug'... if you like the idea of clicking some parts, but not making holsters which look identical, see George B.'s site.. my opinion he does exactly that - and does it well. There really isn't all that much to holsters -- not that much in design, not much labor, not much expense. This is of course the reason there are SO many people making them -- it's cheap and easy. The more automated the process can be made, the more people will be jumping on that wagon. But, as for how many in a week... If I wasn't making a new design, or tooling a belt, or on the phone (or killing this time for coffee), then perhaps 30-35. That's a guess based on about 5-a-day (which I have done). Well, IF that chubby girl delivers to the post office for me .... and materials are delivered on time ...

0-1 gets pretty hard, pretty quickly.. but NOT known for corrosion resistance. We used to make "down and dirty" shop tools from it (like , you needed a particular size punch in a hurry) but not sure why an "experienced" knife maker would be using it. Better to go with an air hardening A- or even D- type steel.

That guy makes it look simple. I suppose we have to have another 5 pages if I say that what he did could have been done with about any kind of knife? I usually use a #11 x-acto for that

Is your holster really that thick?#@!@#!@#$!! There's a few ways to git around that if ya hafta. Simplest one is to make the holster 1/2" wider at the stitch line, stitch it up, then trim off the marks from the feet. Beyond that, a fella could move a couple bolts --- but I hate to be crowding the guy who "stands behind" those, so I'll let him answer that.

Scott said he got one (see post #14).

Actually, I do have some antstreak. I dont care for it, but that girl wrote a REALLYYY nice check, so .... As for teh $100 (ish)... it happens

Yeah, I'm just gun shy any more. I have spent thousands of dollars over the years on tools and/or equipment that needed to be altered / fixed / sharpened / adjusted BEFORE I could even use it. At this point, SHOW me it works if you want to sell it.

Funny! I can't even find the list of what I OWN!

Oh, did anybody else git that email about the "all new" tandy web site? Looks like purdy pictures of the same old thing to me. Good news (maybe).. you can still get to teh leathercraft library.

Meh.. I leave the videos to the "alternative" community. There's plenty of fellas makin' videos of every project they make. Wait.. were you thinking I was actually gonna USE this thing? I cut out 2 belts and 4 holsters this morning without one, (and tooled one belt, glued and stitched two of the holsters, and consulted with a guy about a holster design) so .... Actually, when I put a bid in, I was jus' playin

Oh, there it is. $50 (ish).. not to worry. I gona bid on another one.. just outta curiosity Pretty painless.. UNDER $50 with shippin'. Maybe them things not in demand like folks talk about?

No, it's a knife, not a iron! Now if I can find out where it WENT!

Well, make some sense outta THAT #$!@!@@# Just got a email tellin' me I won that head knife on Ebay. Or round knife, or whatever. Didn't want it, no clue what I'll do with it.. Prolly not sanitary use it fer a steak knife?

I got the dummy mag, so maybe the gun is here somewhere ?

Gonna depend on how big the notebook is. For small -- like maybe 8: x 6", then about 6 oz will be enough. As they get larger, then I go up in weight. For over 12", and a 3-ring binder, I like 7/8 oz with a 2 oz (ish) lining.

Yep, I know. That is at least partially due to the many "professionals' passing out idiotic "instructions". I get people call me, wanna know 'how do I measure for a belt"... well - how would you measure for anything? Probably next in line, is the guy (or gal) who thinks that the 8 oz belt and the 14 oz belt should measure the same ...

Burnishing edges.

Keep the portion you have tooled. Cut NEW back pieces, using the prepcut things to mark the location of teh slot for the buckle hoop. Pitch the "pre-fab" back pieces. Trim, and punch through the holes in the front piece to make holes (which WILL line up) in the back.

Search the web, and you'll find a BUNCH of "right" ways to measure for a belt - some downright weird. But, one issue at a time, perhaps. Ever seen one of those sites that tell you to measure from the fold in the belt? Here's why that doesn't work...

Nah... think if I was gonna pay to rent it, then pay to ship it (and I assume, pay again to ship it back) might just as well go buy my own. Actually, though, I been hopin' somebody would say... Got any PX4 full-size? Jus so I kin say "go fish"!

Solid mass of stuff..tha's funny. 30 years will do that Still, that Garland mallet is a nice tool!