JLSleather

Man, tough crown 'round heyah! 497 downloads between the two patterns for the 5" 1911, and not so many pics showing off yer work!

See, not THIS was interesting. How DO you scan a blue gun? GRAPH paper is STILL awesome all these years later

See, not ya go m' attention. I remember when you could order tools, showed up so sharp you didn't ,know you were cut 'til ya seen the drops on the floor! Man, that was a while back. I just got a osborne edger -- just junk. ANYWAY, I'd likely do more hand stitching if I could get tools worth using.

If someone can find where I said the OTHER guy shouldn't get a round knife.. I'll kiss yer... uhh.. nevermind. I did make light (twice) of the idea of a video about having a round knife (which it turns out is exactly correct). SO, IF someone was to want to go back and find where I said --- whatever they thought they heard -- here's what I said.. save ya some time. My mistake for getting anywhere near a conversation that doesn't concern me anyway. ________________ Post 2 Actually, I'm sure you'll have some folks liniin' up here to tell you all about so many wonderful needs for the things, but I've never owned one. Sept 7 There's nothing wrong with tradition -- each his own. But I'm not getting a round knife to do what I already do without one. Post 15 But if the original question wasn't what I thought, then I'll ask it myself .. what can you do with a round knife that you couldn't do with something else? Post 22 Everything on my site -- and 100 times more --- all done without a round blade, or head knife, whatchacallit. Good news... those who like 'em, can take the last one on the shelf.. don't wait for me! Post 24 What is important is the finished appearance of the wall. Post 26 I don't see anybody "anti- round knife. In fact, I view them like golf... no problem if the OTHER guy does it.. Post 30 The guy's question (in case it got lost)... was IF there was a significant advantage over other types of blades. For me, there is not. Post 33 What exactly DID they say it will do, that something else wouldn't? Post 48 So, IF I ever have any reason at all to cut an inch of leather, I'll certainly be back to ask if anyone recommends a good one. Post 49 I think you have hit SMACK on the issue here, Art Post 55 But,,.. But.... but chrome is SHINY #$!@#!@$!~!!! Post 59 A video? Of course there is

A video? Of course there is

By nature, things at rest tend to stay at rest SOME of the problem with collapsing holsters is from the vast majority of them being built (and sewn) flat, and then formed. If you take a flat piece of spring steel (or banding) and bend it, it will try to return to it's original (flat) condition. But formed leather isn't the same. It largely stays where it's formed. Apparently, many people "hope" (translated: tell themselves) that stitching two layers of leather together and then folding creates this "spring' effect to hold a holster open. Which it does until it's wet. Don't think so? If you've ever made a belt, maybe you've folded the buckle end over. Hold up a strap, fold the last few inches down with your thumb. Take your thumb away,the leather snaps back. But wet the leather, still folds, but doesn't return. Two lighter layers stitched together DOES make a stronger, firmer construction that one thick layer, so there is some benefit gained from stitching two layers and then forming - firmer than a single layer due to each layer pulling against the other. But if you want a holster to stay open - as in that's a major consideration for that holster -- then it should be constructed on a curve approximately matching the finished curve, and glued / stitched that way.

Just a heads up for anybody was thinking about some new shop tools on a budget ... Harbor Freight has a table top drill press on sale for $60 (less than half price). http://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-5-Speed-Bench-Drill-Press-60238.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMTcxMDU4NjIiLCJza3UiOiI2MDIzOCIsImlzIjoiNTkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiOTA2NyJ9%0D%0A&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=3815a&utm_source=1011&cid=mEmail_s1011_c3815a

But,,.. But.... but chrome is SHINY #$!@#!@$!~!!!

Sticker on it just says "mylar template plastic" and that it's from teh quilting department. Works good for this, though ...

I think you have hit SMACK on the issue here, Art Oh, I don't go back quite all the way to the 70's (just a kid) - so nowadays 'round these parts we say 4140 and D2 for steel.

I went to two tandy stores back when they started selling HO, just for that reason. The sides they had on the rack, well -- wasn't something I wanted, even if they weren't marked up 40%! Oh, wait.. they were 40% over the price of the GOOD stuff.

That's what I've been saying. At least there IS an answer... people have been NOT answering a simple question for days (actually, much longer, but days just on this thread). So, the round knife will cut through 1" of leather in a single pass. Fair enough - I'll keep that in mind in case I ever have need to cut through 1" of leather (at ALL). As a former tool and die maker, I "get" that more teeth in the cut = smoother cutting. And the shearing action built into a round blade is obvious. So, IF I ever have any reason at all to cut an inch of leather, I'll certainly be back to ask if anyone recommends a good one. My question was simple - what can a round knife do that something else would not. Apparently, there IS an answer. Until now, we've just had a BUNCH of people DEFENDING the use of them WITHOUT any answer to the question. Not sure how not having one equates to inexperience or fear, but I can live with that. Hey, if being called 'chicken' is the only way to get a straight answer, it's all good I guess they're like a "makers mark" stamp... Perhaps next month we could all discuss those.

Looks like you could stand a little darker color, Larry. The way it is, pretty much blends with the background.

Now available for the Ruger SR9c.

Well, you've answered your own question -- you wouldn't know. Keep in mind, not all H.O. is good leather, and not all good leather is H.O. I mean, H.O. themselves admit it's not all "equal", that's why there are different "grades" Point is, try not to put too much emphasis on the NAME. I personally LOVE Al Stohlman's carving / coloring, but even Al admitted that his early work (in his own words) "left much to be desired". And yet it was signed A.S. I've never purchased anything at Weaver. They might be great folks (wouldn't know) selling good stuff. Couple people I know who have shopped there said good things (but then, one liked his cobra stitcher until I told him show me that it stitches back in the same holes!). But I've always thought they were a bit overpriced considering the price of the SAME things in other places. If you got good leather and you're happy, then there's nothing to add to that But I think $310 for a side is extreme. Figuring about 25 feet, that's over $12 / foot. H.O. requires a larger purchase, but for "A" grade you pay like $7.25 / foot. And Goliger will sell you a single side of H.O. "A" grade for around $9.25 / foot.

I don't consign, so I'll say that up front in case you prefer not to read the rest of my thoughts For that type of thing, I think 25% is actually a little less than some ask for. Still, more than I would want to pay to someone who hasn't done any of the work. In terms of volume, a dozen belts is actually low. I suppose it depends on the store you're dealing with. If he's charging you to sell your work, it seems reasonable he would also be paying you for any advertising you're giving him (web site or other). Consider also, his insurance should cover YOUR property (it's still yours until it's paid for) in case of fire, shoplifters, flood, etc. If the store burns, are you just "out"? THAT SAID, I would personally prefer to sell him the belts outright. You might come to a reasonable "wholesale" price if he was to purchase - say 25 or more belts. I would probably want like a minimum order of 25 (50 is better), with material costs plus 25% of the labor paid up front. These things all depend, I suppose, on how close a friend the guy is. OH, yeah.. while not actually "consignment", I have had people offer to purchase multiple items if they can get a reduced price. This is not particularly interesting to me. Think this ... You sell one belt for $100. Somebody comes along, kinda likes yer belt, and says he'll give ya $75. You might well be insulted if you have considerable time in that belt. You'd think that guy was hustling you, and you might even call him a jerk (or such). WHY then, do people think that if someone offers to buy 50 of them, he's suddenly 'OK' and it's a good deal? Isn't he just hustling you out of $25 - 50 times?!#@%$! I mean, if you're selling belt BLANKS (as some sensitive folks do) and you make $4 each, tehn the more you cut, the more profit. But if you're stamping/dyeing/finishing/setting snaps/stitching/punching..... then you're out all that time ON EACH ONE.

I can't imagine needing to purchase something as simple as a wallet design. I mean, it's not like they need to "fit" anything... and can be about any size and shape you like. That said, the many "billfold" craftaids you see are made for carving on wallet "backs" that measure 9 1/4" x 3 3/8" in 3/4 oz leather. FWIW. Oh, and I did find at least some of those pics with the clear ID window 'stuff'... This is one side of a wallet interior, and this particular wallet measured (at a gal's request) 7 1/2" x 3 1/2" (or was it 3 5/8?)

Not to worry, JR,.. we just don't agree. .. and that's okay

"I am making a cowboy rig ..." So, you're talking about a STRAIGHT belt, or the buscadero type rig?

I'm not following that at all. What exactly DID they say it will do, that something else wouldn't? Ah, you know what... never mind

Okay, I'll dissent here. You're in a large enough metro area that there is surely someone local who can get you a good machine - and even let you test drive it before deciding. In fact, if they won't do that, walk away, cuz someone else WILL. Even if 'dealers' showed up on your doorstep (saving you shipping).. where will they be when the machine goes down or needs service? Nope, for my money, go with the local guy. He has parts for you machine, can install them if necessary, and likely has a "loaner' machine to use while yours is in the shop. Must be signs of the times. Customer service didn't used to mean you fix it yourself. After a year, perhaps, but not the week after you bought it. My next purchase, I think probably an adler. Man, them things is 'smooooooooth'......

I'll have to dig a bit. I had pictures of some I made 'from scratch', but the other day I didn't see them so I'm guessing they got removed -- likely on one of the backups, though. The plastic material I found at Hobby Lobby in the sewing section (actually, a girl who works there found it for me). Works great, and I still have some -- so maybe can find out what it's called. Comes in flat sheets about 12 x 18 (or around there). Very rigid, very transparent, and stitches in well and stays there. I really need to find those pics

The guy's question (in case it got lost)... was IF there was a significant advantage over other types of blades. For me, there is not. The end. But that topic 'loss' happens sometimes around here. Fella asked a simple question recently about a holster pattern and got handed like the history of gun powder. No, wait.. it was the availability of dummy guns for various models. Either way, anyone NOT having a pattern (the answer to the guy's request) could have simply NOT replied. NOT have = NOT reply. Simple idea, doesn't always happen.

Marking this for later .... back to bed...

So then, it would seem that's a "no".. nobody has a pattern for that.