JLSleather

I've used that Tanner's and never had a problem with it. Generally, if you're getting "boogers", it's too thick. This can be from the glue itself settling (and getting thick) or from simply applying it too thick, or from not letting it cure enough. Since you let it sit so long, we'll rule that one out (I find about 4 hours is plenty most of the time, before stitching). So either your glue is settled or you put too much on there. Did you mix the glue before using it? I do this with the Barge, too. Shake the sucker like you were shaking a can of paint (in fact, I wouldn't mind having a paint shaker just for that!). But quart or smaller jugs, you could just use a stick. You'll be able to tell if it's settling -- there will be more than one color... just make sure it all mixes together (all one color again).

https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-998-tooling-barnwood-by-kat-kuszak-series-9d-page-8.aspx? Complete 'stages' illustration. Save an hour of your life wading through a bunch of u-tube ROT by somebody with a small-man complex (they'll call it "marketing", but it's the same thing). Get something actually USEFUL

Exactly. I think a pointed background tool, modeling spoon, and a knife be about it. I think it was Kat Kuszak did a very nice explanation of this in an old Tandy "doodle page". [ Kat, if I got yours and somebody else's mixed up, don't take it personal -- still love your stuff! ] Very nice looking barnwood thing done in "layers" of stages... very easy to follow. What was that ... like 1980-something? They'll be some ass on you-tube shortly claiming he / she "invented" it, but truth is it's been done forever (and Kat did it well as anyone). I'll see kin I finda copy .... YEP.. still available. My mistake, looks like it was '87. She goes step by step, for anybody interested. Very well stated and illustrated. No video required Download it at https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-998-tooling-barnwood-by-kat-kuszak-series-9d-page-8.aspx?

I don't know how you guys take that stuff. 36 minute video for that? I basically couldn't take it any more and at about 11 minutes, just shut it off. BUT, you boys on about how great it was, I made myself turn it on again this morning. Not to badmouth the guy, but rather see what he actually said -- and maybe get a handle on both the bullet loops AND the "let's make a video of every project we're ever going to make" syndrome that's everywhere any more. Particularly if it takes the first 10 minutes to cut 2 pieces of poster board. ...................................................... Cut 2 piece of card stock 9" x 2 3/4" and round the corners. Draw a center line on each piece. Take 3 measurements. 1.) Determine how wide you want the bullet strip (this case 5/8"). [ADD PIC] 2.) Determine the length of strip needed for each loop. Draw a line across the strip close to one end and Now put the cartridge on a flat surface and wrap the strip across the cartridge so the line you drew is flat on the surface. Pull the other end of the strip down to the surface and draw another line along the cartridge. This is the length of strip needed per cartridge. [ADD PIC] 3.) Measure down the flat surface between the lines. This is the spacing on the back piece. [ADD PIC] Cut and mark your strip for the length you will need for the desired number of cartridges, leaving about 1" on each end. [ADD PIC] Center the strip on the back piece and stitch down each loop. If desired, you can stitch continuously by folding the strip out of the way and stitching diagonally from the bottom of one stitch line to the top of the next stitch line. [ADD PIC] [ADD PIC] ...................................................... I think that's about it? Unless you need a video showing how to stitch a back piece. Disturbing the things people can decide are reasons to make a video. Now, personally, it don't matter to me, cuz all I need to do is just don't watch it if you don't like it, right? For myself, I won't be spending 1/2 hour to watch what I could have read (with pictures) in 5 minutes. Oh, as for that particular video... that actually was better than many you'll find. At least he made his point... I mean you actually COULD make bullet loops after enduring the video. This automatically puts him a notch or two up on the guy who wants me to watch a video of his latest belt, or yet another holster no more custom than i could order at Cabela's (or such). [seriously fellas, you like your new holster, post a pic, let us know you like it, and move on -- no video required]. Well, actually another "plus" -- it was free to endure watch. Some guys actually want to charge you for that (or even less than that). One thing I didn't care for - he made quite a point of "pushing down" the stitching and talking about why he did it. But the stitching that will take the abuse is the diagonal stitch where bullets will be rubbed over it again and again. Those were NOT "pushed down". OH.. and if you're doing 'math' and figuring how much strip you need... why not also figure in the ends, so you don't have that "hack job" cut off at the end? One question, Richard... was that a temporary lack of concentration because you were busy, or do you really think your cobra 4 machine was made in California?

Call Steve. That's the official response.

Like I'm not gonna read THAT one! I did reply to your question over there ← on that other site. Putting that here in case someone else can help with it further... I have the small revolver pattern for the Smith J-frames, but I'm unsure of the fit on the ladysmith (which if i remember is an I-frame). It does fit the Taurus M85 well, so you might find it just fine. I have a desk covered with "dummy" guns to get through, so I don't even know when I could design one. Is there a dummy for that one? Maybe could pick one up and shove it in teh j-frame holster to test ... EDITED FOR CORRECTION: The Ladysmith was originally an "M" frame revolver. Now, you may well find J-frames being referred to as "ladysmith" models.

Drill press will work in Greece - ya jus gotta flip the cord upside down Well, maybe a voltage regulator as well. My wife is an import from NZ, so I can tell you the NEW equipment is cheaper than shipping the old one! Still, looks like your stamps have adapted well to the metric leather.

That was a lot of stuff about dummies. To be clear, were you looking for the GUN, or a leather cutting PATTERN? I don't have either, and normally I would simply just NOT reply where I don't have an answer for you. But that ↑ was long enough it left me - and likely others - confused about what it is you're wanting. I have checked 5 or 6 places where I have found dummy guns, and did NOT find one for this weapon. So perhaps I salvage SOME value from my post. Incidentally, I don't find cost of the firearm a 'rule' for the availability of a dummy model. Case in point, Boberg pistols - only around a couple of years and they run $1300 give-er-take. But there are several companies making dummies for them.

Purdy. You have just a tad of 'fuzz' on the edge of the green one, but since it looks like the inside is chrome (?) I'd say those edges are meticulously done. Since I basically can count the ridges in your fingerprints, I'm gonna say that piece of fuzz is very small. That's the only cheap shot i can take at it Looks GOOD.

The good news over there is.. there's SO MUCH stuff. The bad news on the other hand,... there's SO MUCH stuff. Bit of a pain not having the pricing right there. I've been in there a few times, and basically don't care to find the image on one page and the pricing on another. Getting soft, maybe

If you're looking for ease of use, I think the guy down town uses corel draw - no idea what version. It looks to do all a guy would need.. or maybe that guy just makes it LOOK easy. With all the scanners and plotters available these days, I think a guy could get by with just a sheet of paper in the proper size. Personally, I prefer graph paper... seems to help with broad curves (and proportion of them). Paper patterns must work. there are thousands upon thousands of them sold, including many that are now like 75 years old and still available (some of you may have heard the name Stohlman).

It looks like your leather was too wet to tool (which is a common error for new guys - including me). Still, the holster overall looks purdy good.

Never used 'em. How did you decide they are "high end"? Personally, I still like my Craftools, though you have to have the older ones. Found this pattern in a drawer the other day. Anybody remember where it's from? Ahh.. no matter. Done with the old Craftools, though. Don't have any idea where he gets 'em, but you can often find the old "goodies" on Ebay. He has a set you might look at right now, in fact ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Craftool-Co-USA-Unknown-Checkered-Beveler-Stamps-4-Leather-Tools-/252071694760

Surprising that nobody considered the thread. I think most of us can figure out how to avoid puckering / wrinkling, but I personally don't like what it does to a stitch line when you flex after stitching. So I curve a bit. A small waist size has more curve than the bigger fella.

The "give" you are referring to means one is stretched and one is puckered. Your belt, so only you know if that's acceptable.

Don't carve that in stone. It matters what KIND of holster you're making (though, I DO prefer 7/8 for a basic OWB). I've made them using anywhere from 6 to 10 (or so).

I kaint spell sigma, but there's a pattern for the G19 and instructions to make it over here. Wet forming is simple enough --- dunk the thing in a bowl of warm water, put the pistol in a sandwich bag (or similar - don't matter) and shove it in the hole. Some folks use a vacuum seal system, some use a press, but if you're just making one or a few I'd recommend just shaping a bit with modeling tools. Tool handles. Bone folder. Chunk of aluminum or stainless without sharp edges. Basically, anything without hard corners that isn't mild steel (steel and wet leather is a bad combo).

Trying to remember, actually Using rings - which ended up about 1" above the top of the bag - then generally the solid strap was about 34" long. That's what I listed them as last time I made "strap" things... then they just let me know if they need it longer or shorter (few did). With the adjustable ones, cut two straps about 24" long. Put the conway buckle a couple inches from teh end of one, with the prong up through the only hole in the strap. Then punch the adj holes in the other every 2 inches. This will keep the buckle from being right on top and digging in the shoulder, and will raise or lower the bag 1" each hole moved. Oh, AU.... that would be about 60cm for you boys down there.

That's actually a pretty smooth working program. Not nearly as powerful as AC, but not nearly the price tag, either! Testing it out, I don't think there's anything you need beyond this - - works good. Well, splines get a bit cumbersome, but otherwise .......

A few leather people seem to grasp this easy enough. But then they'll stop there. I've seen 'directions' for belts that say "add 2 inches" all teh way to "pants plus 4 inches". Maybe my customers a little smarter Nobody wants 6 inches of belt tag FLAPPIN' around on the end, so try to keep it reasonable. In theory (assuming that the math is correct, that teh waist size is right (including thickness of jeans), and that you're using double 7/8 oz, then the shift in size from the inside to the outside would be about 1 9/16". Some genius will be here in a minute to say ... just make it 2" longer and it'll be fine - AND IT LIKELY WOULD. As long as you measure and mark the OUTSIDE (grain side) of the OUTER layer AND measure teh "tag" end (or billet) AFTER marking the position of the holes. ONE belt, maybe doesn't matter for that. But what happens when you get an order for 6 belts that all need to match ... Oh.. just a little simpler? Onions have layers. Peel one off. Is the rest the same size, or a little SMALLER?

NOW then, note that in the above example, if we used 1/4" leather instead of 8 oz, then the waist would be a 38 (outside) the first layer would be 39 5/8" (outside) the second layer would be 41 1/8" (outside) so clearly it MATTERS. . But, does it also matter on the INSIDE? Perhaps it helps to think PVC pipe.. If a pipe is 38" around the outside: with a wall thickness of 1/8", then the inside would have a diameter 1/4" less, and the distance around the inside would be 37.2", but if you have a wall thickness of 1/4" (or if you "sleeve" it with another 1/8" "layer"), then the inside diameter is 1/4" less again and the distance around the inside is about 36.4". Clearly, a double thick ( 1/4" ) belt 38" long is not going to fit a 38" waist UNLESS it's 38" ON THE INSIDE. Again, you can test this. Take those pieces of leather you cut in part 1. Curl up one piece on the table, so that it butts up flush, like it was on your waist. Hold it together with a small piece of scotch tape on the inside, just enough to hold it for a bit. Now, take the other strip, and curve it the same way, and put it INSIDE the first one WITHOUT overlapping it (good luck).

Well, this aint the full version, but maybe enough to make sense. First, you need to grasp a few simple statements. I say simple because they are generally obvious to most, but for some reason people get a piece of leather and forget simple things Everybody has a size. You can get that size with a measuring tape. A belt needs to be BIGGER than the waist. If it was the same size, it wouldn't go around. PLUS, it needs to be bigger than the size of the waist PLUS the thickness of your jeans / slacks. Those people who say the thickness doesn't matter are either confused or lying. What they're telling you isn't true -- only question is whether or not it's intentional. Say you're using 8 oz leather, which we'll use just because it's easy. If your waist measures 38" (which I'm using because it's the most requested) then the outside of that piece of leather will be 38 PLUS 1/8" all the way around. Math guys will tell you this is a little more than 38 3/4". Now, if you add another layer of 1/8", you have 39 5/8" (on the grain side). Which, clearly, is not 38. But you can prove this to yourself easily. Take two strips of 8 oz leather long enough to go around you. 1" wide is enough for this. Wrap one around your waist, and cut it so that the ends meet at your waist (no overlap). Now, cut the other teh same size. Wrap the second one around the first one. There ya go

That works IF you have the person it's for. Beyond that, it will depend on the user.-- 5' tall and 135 not the same strap as the guy 6'2" and 225. Personally, I like conway buckles for that type of thing. Both ends of both straps are retained.. no tip to 'flop around'.

Not sure how I missed that! I was going to call Ray today anyway

Gonna call em today -- I'll let ya know if they got one.