JLSleather

Back when I did lathe work consistently, we had programs for the cnc which could turn about any radius larger than 1/32" (internal) and we had form tools which made radii from about 1/8" up to 5/16". "Dig" it out with a "normal" tool, then 'plunge' the form tool.... done If I ever get caught up on stuff, I'm not opposed to getting a small benchtop cnc lathe that would make things like this while I pound leather

Rubber cement is not intended to be permanent. It's fine for holding parts together long enough to sew or lace,but really not to take the shock of a chisel pulled out of it. I use it on small projects - and I do sometimes use a thonging chisel for lacing slits. But it's in thin leather, allowed to dry somewhat before sticking, and the parts are held down while the chisel is pulled.

My H.O. issue is the minimum order. No worries getting 10 sides, but it's the fact that to get different thickness you have to buy 20 sides, not 10. ANd 10 of all the same weight would be fine IF you could buy a splitter that comes sharp and ready to use Far as suppliers go, I tend to be a bit vocal Send me the good stuff, I'll spread the word. Send me the dregs, don't be confused - I'll say that too! Right in the center of town square, and I'll verify it with photos if needed. Far as SLC goes, they HAVE sent me POO at various times. BUT, not ALL of the leather they've sent has been bad - in fact I have been on teh phone with them before suggesting they send me some more JUST LIKE that last batch. And I ordered one side the other day from them which hasn't arrived as yet. This does seem to be their big customer base, though.. the guy who wants one or two pieces ...

Yeah, IF I had that lathe i mentioned not having I'd likely go with a simple piece of 6061 aluminum about 1" dia. The stuff is cheap, polishes to an insane mirror finish, doesn't rust (or stain leather), and 1" is enough to keep the 'flex' out of it, without creating a 9 million sfpm speed (remember that the 1.5" is moving 1.5 times faster at the same RPM)

I like the idea too. But it's tough to get anybody to make ONE of anything any more -- everybody is so automated they want orders for 1000 -- or they'll make you 1 but bill you for the 1,000 I can run a lathe -- manual and / or cnc - but the trick is where to put one!

'80/20' may not be in any textbooks.. just sumthin seemed like it might make sense to folks A few revolver holsters to finish up and a couple of belts to carve, and maybe I can get back to the "drawing board"....

A word about Etsy and how it works over there ... These pattern files are currently available on Etsy due to bookkeeping concerns (I pay a small fee, but I don't calculate international taxes). Some of you are now asking .. SO !@!@$#$%!??! There are files available FREE on my web site, which are also available on etsy for a small fee (like 50¢). This is not a mistake, it's just that they can't be listed over there for free,and I'm not even allowed to tell you that they are available "off - etsy" in the listings. BUT, they are there so those who are downloading other files ANYWAY can just get those there without going to another site. SO THEN... DO check the web site for the FREE ones FIRST ...

Some of the spitting could be water getting in the air line, too. If you don't already have one, get a moisture trap for the air line.

Okay, I'll guess with ya Ask your customer for the RED measurements in the pic, in which case you may not even NEED a blue gun (stitch and send, he can form). Judging by the shape and [apparent] size, I'd lean towards a K-frame (looks a bit like the old M19) EXCEPT for that lug, which may put it closer to the 686 (which is an "L"). Better yet, ask your customer to measure the cylinder. Caliper, or drop it out and use a ruler, whatever. All of which is the long version of saying "I don't know,too".

I aint heard nuthin. Jus sayin' if ya like the cowboy machine and service, and you want something in the thickness and thread range, the 227 might work for ya. I don't own a cowboy machine, but seems like the folks what got em is happy with em.

I think you're going to find that the .45 is a good 1/32" wider in the slide. You might ask the boys at Duncan's if they have that model.. I know they sold teh tactical version at one time ...

The RB-5 has to be held down to reverse

IF you are happy with the 3200, and the service from those people, you might look at the 227R That one uses the same thread sizes and in fact the same needle as the Consew

Are we not thinking this is the SAME machine?

Lookin' purdy good. Couple "tips" on the basketweave for what it's worth.. maybe personal preference.... I would use a smaller basket stamp - if you have one. And, if guy wanneda git all fancy, a guy could draw a line on the pattern (first page showing the assembly) from the top of the slot to the top of the other slot. Then use that to draw a line 3/4" or 1" down from that. Then actually mark that line on your front panel and use it as a guide for your basket stamp. When you put the holster on, the basket design will be level

I use a 23 needle with 207 thread. But keep in mind that not all needles that say 23 are the same.

7/8 more often than not.

Yep, I would. Get some of the snow moved, and I might be due for a trip myself. If it was an hour and a half, I could pick up a few sides. But since I'd likely fly out, have to get considerably more to make it worth the trip.

To answer your question.. yes, there is a difference. Both work quite well, though. I've used both quite a bit, and have not had any problems -- both tool very nicely. For single layer UNlined belts, I'd go with 8/9 or even 9/10. Most of my belts are 7/8 lined with 3/4 and edge stitched.

Of course, the down side of having only one machine, if something happens and the machine goes down, then no work is getting out the door. With two -- even if they don't match -- you might be able to complete orders with the second one while the first is being fixed.

Yep, minimum 10, and that's 10 of the same weight. True, it's a chunk of change. But the "B" grade is $7.70/foot -- NOT the $10/foot you're paying at SLC. $2.25 per foot times 25 feet is an extra $56 per side. So going through 10 sides, you'd pay $560 LESS going to H.O. Perhaps the BIG thing is, I've tried that just getting a couple of sides / backs at a time. But then you end up paying about 25% more for what is supposed to be the same leather. Figure it the other way around. $1000 gets 4 sides at these "retail" places, or 5 sides at H.O. If I lived in PA, I'd take a trip over to W/C and pick out some leather - which it seems may be the only way to do it these days. Or if you have someone doing leather in your area, maybe "split" an order from H.O.

I've never personally liked black thread on natural leather (though the other way around is 'ok'). Still, my mistake... seems NONE of my glock holsters fit the Rugers worth beans

So,.. how much interest do we have for "80/20" pancake holsters? By that, I mean most of the pancake styles you see are "flat", or "50/50". "FLAT" .... with the back piece perhaps laid on a table and the "front" or outside piece molded over the weapon. The curve of the body is largely done with the 'wings' ONLY; "50/50"... involves two pieces -- front and back - which are quite similar. The stitch seams are basically a 'meet in the middle' situation. Lately, I get requests for holsters with some curve, but with the seams closer to the body. SOME people (usually with narrow waists) find that the smaller guns can tend to bind at the front site on a '50'50' holster. Just the nature of pancake holsters, which is made worse the closer the slots are to the firearm. So, it becomes a trade-off... trading function with belt real estate (foot print). The answer it would seem is an '80'20' holster. Accomplished by making the same general type construction as the '50/50' but with the front or outside piece made larger to wrap partially around -- past the center line of the weapon. Perhaps the easiest way to describe it is to show it (?). Looking down the back end of the Glock 43 RH. Some 'natural' curve in the rig, NOT 'flexed' around to accomodate a belt or line up the slots (which is done frequently and leads to the issue described).

Why are you boys determined you need such a wide slot?