JLSleather

Print the page. Measure the 9" line to make sure it's 9" long center to center. Fold and crease on fold line. Make another crease about 3/16" each side of the fold line (you should end up with a piece of paper shaped a bit like a very thin book, or notebook). Make a mark on the paper about 1/4" up from the bottom of the pattern (not bottom of the paper). Cut out the top of the pattern (remember to leave the right side tab long where shown). Place the gun with the trigger guard in the fold. Note where the gun grip meets the paper - you want to adjust up or down so that the gun muzzle is close to your mark you made near the bottom of the pattern. Close other side of paper (you can tape it if it helps). With the gun parallel to the straight side of the holster, cut the bottom curve to suit your taste. Cutting them together guarantees a left/right match. Now, if you're happy with the way that "sits", then it's just a matter of cutting your leather from that. Then use your paper pattern to make another "half" which you'll put slots in.

1911_poo_R2.pdf Maybe that's better. This thing prints on ONE sheet of paper -- so no trouble there. Measure the line between the circles .. make sure you got 9" (which means it's right). Make sure your printer is set to "actual size" or 100% or whatever yours says (NOT "scale to fit").

That's an extra piece stitched to the back (which appears to be much too thin and 'mooshy' to be safe (or even intelligent). But how big are the slots? I know he wants it to be able to do everything (perhaps including holding coffee?) but I don't like slots cut bigger than the strap. I've never used a SOB holster (like worn in the pic) and I'm not going to --- but "slop" in the slots I would think would be even worse with that use. Far as adding slots, just a matter of intelligent guess. I'd say those angled slots are about 20° off level ... Here's a re-make. I raised the top of the leather a bit to ride the grip like the picture, and I also lowered teh openeing under the trigger guard a bit, just eye-ballin' the picture. In actual practice, guy might cut some leather the right thickness, about 1/2" too wide. Fold in half, and set the gun in the fold (at the trigger guard). then just push the ends together and make a bit of a crease where they come together. That's where the stitch line goes. Another stitch line 1/8"- 3/16" past that, and the edge 1/8'-3/16" beyond that. Oh, wait.. I'll put a 'center line" in there.....

Nothing to apologize for The 'tension screw' is that little thing on the corner.. probably has a rubber gasket between there (much like a washer on a bolt). Ordinarily, this is done so you can adjust the tension on the gun. The way this one is placed, it likely doesn't do anything other than decoration. I'm sure one or more of these boys can tell you where to get the best price on those if you decide to use one. Or maybe somebody just send you ONE? As for how to use this pattern.. purdy simple. VERY easy if you have the gun to work with. I usually put it on there, and this time didn't -- but I'd make that outta 7/8 leather, and that's what the lines are drawn assuming. It looks like theirs was thinner, but a full-size 1911 needs a little something to hold it ...

OH.. well, to make my sketch work, raise the middle (center arc) by about 3/4" .. since apparently it's the leather up the grip that keeps the rig from falling through.

Yep, different process But we don't largely want to hear actual facts around here ... much better to have someone pat us on the head and tell us we're doing good. Maybe stems from so many people's fear of actually sharing something useful (but I'm just guessing)?. Who knows... maybe I shouldn't guess before the coffee is ready?

Well, I certainly aint seeino way what keeps that varmint from cuminout the bottom end, do you? Otherwise, if'n that's a 5", I'd be fer figgerin' this here'll do it, or least ways purdy close Feller would hafta figger where to put teh tension screw (from preference) and where to locate the rivet hole, depending on IF you used a metal thumb break stiffener, otherwise .....

Sig P938 Avenger download up on the site now. $0.00, + tax if you're in IA

Nice.... good to see a guy jump in and start - that's where the REAL learning comes from. I WOULD agree that the book is worth having, but in the end you learn it by doing it. And long as the molds are dimensionally correct, that's one step from stealing Pitted composite, or trigger that didn't mold in all the way, or sight that didn't form so great .. so what?@#!@#!! Good find!

What IS all that in the back I guess that's supposed to be able to be worn in space or under water I'd ask him where he wants to wear it and start with that.

Yeah. So, you would agree that a (50/50) pancake holster is tighter on the belt than in the hand, or not? I mean, where you do think this 'tighter' is coming from? SOMETHING is moving... where do YOU think it comes from? A couple of points you may or may not care about... This video was uploaded actually to make fun of some folks who thought they knew something about holster retention. Listen, and you can hear my pneumatic chair bouncing and me trying not to laugh out loud And this one (not the same holster) is for the shield 9mm. Looking from the front, the seam is clearly center. Now, when you push that front slot IN toward the body, what do you suppose happens to that space in front of the weapon? This of course is less noticeable on an obese person, since on a slim person the holster curves MORE.

Got a picture of that? I think if you look down at a pancake holster from the top you'll see my point.

I see my site is down this morning. "Should" be back running shortly. Reason I put that here . I'l be uploading a good number of FREE holster patterns over the next 2-3 weeks as I get time. I'm taking a break from holster making for a while -- truth is I have other skills which pay better But the patterns should be available... always like to see folks improving their leather skills. NOTE: wrinkles do not belong on leather holsters.. not even on the back side Nope, site still not fixed. In the mean while, the patterns over at cutesy have been reduced to $2.75 ea.

If you have the "dummy", and no objection to sending it, I'd be willing to make your pattern and return both. Up to you...

You mold a site channel in a "traditional" pancake? uhh.. okay ....

Well done, Stewart. I like the holster, and also your angle on holsters! Sometimes leather folks forget that even though we like the leather to be 'purdy', that is NOT the point. Some will say the point is the $600 - 1500 gun IN the holster, but that's not the point either. Personally, I'd have to look that one up.. don't think I've ever had one in my hand. How close are they to the bulldog?

Well, actually they don't accept returns on leather "altered", which includes having it split to 7/8 oz. Would have been nice to know that to begin with, don't ya think In the end, though, I didn't order 'bargain basement' leather -- I paid for the top of the line. They've sent me absolutely beautiful leather in the past, but not so much lately. So, I'm not going to debate it... if this is what they're sending out i think I'll pass. So, IF someone can use the stuff and want's to pay enough to make it worth my trouble to package and ship it, that works. If not, there's room in the landfill. I got one hide from SLC today to finish a couple of things, and it doesn't look TOO bad. It'll let me get a few things out the door. Beyond that, I think I'm going to have to go to buying leather that I can stand there and look at.

Yes, I know stuff for sale goes down in that other section. Just a heads up, since I haven't piled it all up yet. I have a pile of poop that some suppliers called leather, and 'got me' for quite a bit of money. I'll be selling it just to get it out of here, since i'm not going to use it, but seems a waste to pitch it. Just one example... I cut the "spongey' parts of some W/C black skirting off the hide. There are two pieces almost 6 feet long, and a total of about foot and a half wide. Now, at $10 / foot, this cost me about $90, but if I had SEEN it BEFORE hand, I wouldn't have given them $20. And that's just a start. We all know there will be some waste on a hide...some that doesn't get used for various reasons. But this is nuts. I kept putting it over in that end of the room, thinking I'll use it for SOMETHING... but what happens is I keep going through it and not using it, so it needs to go. I also have some full single shoulders, in black, brown, chestnut... .. So here's the "thing"..I would NOT use this leather for belts, even if it's long enough. Still, might be good for pet collars, stiffeners, or to be used as backing for exotics. I'm thinking like 25¢ on the dollar... I know I take a hit.. but it's worth it to get it out of my way. Should have done it in December so I could take the tax write off Basically, if I keep looking at it -- just gonna make me mad! Pictures in the works, will post in for sale area.

The stitched site channels with the lite thread really adds contrast. This looks GREAT

I'm not trying to talk you into OR out of anything... but the clear fact is... a second row of stitching does NOT "share the load", as they say. The stress is STILL on the 'working' row of stitching, and putting more holes in the leather is weakening, not strengthening. Like drilling a line of holes in a board...

Holster die is sold. Still got a slot punch - and there's more when I get around to going through

I always temper that "wait time" with some common sense -- no matter I'm buying or selling. If I need a one-color NOT tooled belt, and I want it in the best H.O. leather available (for example), with a nice buckle and some good looking stitching.... I'd likely give that about MAXIMUM 3 weeks. If a guy can't do it in that time frame -- no worries, nothing personal, but there are 10,000 other guys who can make that very simple project. Tooling or other customization may legitimately take longer, that's to be expected. But cutting it off the right length and stamping my name in it don't equal "custom" -- a belt that fits is assumed. But even genuinely custom, it's still just a belt -- so if you'd like me to wait MONTHS, then it better come signed "A. Stohlman" I generally have a pretty good handle on how long an order is going to take. Beyond that, the key is simple communication - let 'em know where you're at (early, on time, late).

Why is that - just cosmetic? Do you think you can break a single row?

I don't think you can "set' a ride height. I mean, 'how high" is like how long is a belt Each his own. I must try this corel draw though.. keep hearing about it. It must be fairly versatile.. pretty sure that's what the guy used to cut the vinyl emblems for our trucks "back when". I had them drawn with adobe, but I remember he re-drew it with his own 'thing' which would work with his cutter.

Yep, I do. The smaller thread on the bobbin means it will hold more, and need filling less. Keep in mind that the breaking strength will be the lower number. So if 138 is STRONG enough for what you want to do, then using 207 in teh "top" is a cosmetic choice.. you'll end up with the 138 strength and the 207 "look", and you'll fill the bobbin a bit less often. I like to do it this way on layered belts. The inside and the outside NOT visible at the same time, so no issue there... and the top thread I sometimes want heavier than required just for the look of it.