JLSleather

Might depend on which interiors you bought. I glue 'em. But then I also rip out that goofy cardboard junk they put in there (it's fine to keep it flat for shipping, then it gotta go).

These are sold.

I guess you fellas making them there G43 pancake holsters was wondering where'sda matchin' mag pouch? On the free page (link below) Note this is available in the etsy shop for a small fee. They won't let me list it there for free, but it saves a guy going to another site if you happen to be there anyway. SO THEN< smart money says go get the FREE ones FIRST!

$40 each, or $125 takes 'em all. Shipping is additional, but not over $13 for ALL ($7 for one) #1) 3 3.8" round, for leather coasters and similar. One piece construction. The white "boogers" on the die are from masking tape, it will clean off if you care to do it. Patterns for #2 and #3 are available FREE on my site, so if you're only making a couple I'd recommend just using the pattern. If you're making a few a week, that's where the dies come in #2) Makes mag pouch style 2 #3) Mag pouch style 3 #4 is intended to be used in a press.. it will stand on it's own. The "legs" are covered with a pad, which compresses but does NOT punch. Only punches the SLOT itself. Could be used with a mallet as well. 4) Slot punch 7/32" x 1 5/8" (I like to burnish the slot and end up with 1/4, not start with 1/4" and get wider)

Selling some small dies. Some for mag pouches, some for leather coasters, some for small wallets. All are ready to cut. Pics will be uploaded.

Aluminum works great, too, in place of board. It's dimensionally stable, lasts forever, won't stain the leather. As for nailing down the leather, that's been done for a LONG time. If you use your tools to form it down (assuming the back is flat) then mark the stitches with an overstitch wheel (or chisel) you can then place the nails right in the stitch line IN THE MARK for a hole, and then when you sittch the hole will be used anyway. I don't do too much of this type of case forming any more, but I still have some COPPER BRADS that I used for the nails. Copper - like the aluminum - won't stain the leather.

http://www.holstersmith.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=555_563 http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=41_585_586 http://www.alternateforce.net/blueguns-handguns.html http://duncansoutdoor.com/httpduncansoutdoor-comwp-contentuploads201505dummy-gun-inventory-2015-05-22-xlsx/ http://www.ifithermoplastics.com/products/blue-guns-handguns

Am I the only one who doesn't "get" the belt loop thing, and the dotted vertical line right in that area?

Officially, the two points would be 1) where the tongue meets the buckle, and 2) the hole you want to use, on the INSIDE of teh belt (the outside will not measure the same). I see the graphic is missing.. maybe this will help until if returns Note that the leather is the SAME length in each belt, but the buckle changes teh "size".

http://www.alternateforce.net/blueguns-handguns.html http://duncansoutdoor.com/httpduncansoutdoor-comwp-contentuploads201505dummy-gun-inventory-2015-05-22-xlsx/ http://www.ifithermoplastics.com/products/blue-guns-handguns

Much of what you are talking about is personal preference. I've seen great holsters made by stitching the leather and THEN forming. AND I've seen great holsters made by forming the leather and THEN stitching. Each his own. As for a groove, I almost never use one on a holster, though I often do on a wallet. Basic reasoning is... any time you cut into something you weaken it. In the holster, I want to leave the strength. In the wallet, you don't need the strength, but you may want to recess the stitch since it will be in and out of your pocket a LOT. But the groove is a very shallow one, and most of the 'recessing' is done with tension. There are some free patterns over there which may help get you on track. Hopefully, by doing a few of these, you'll get an idea for what you like and what you don't - and begin to develop your own 'style'. Use 'em as is, or make your own modifications (this is the point) -- a pancake can easily become an IWB or "convertible" with a few lines added/moved ...

It almost seems important to some of you to defend those people. Which is strange, since I'm not attacking them, nor do I see anyone else doing that. My position, the rest of you can order as often or as little as you like... makes no difference to me.

Each person sets his price his own way -- I don't debate it. But I do think that anyone who thinks they've always got good leather down there hasn't seen much leather. Well, in all fairness, I haven't ordered anything from down there for a few months. Probably they've fixed all their issues since then

Yikes -- jack up the leather $75 (about $4 per foot times 18) to save me $20 shipping?

Yep, mine showing $11.79 per. H.O. price right around $8, and that's for "A" grade.

Leaving this off one more day, since the site was upgrading.

Got a former customer wanting a holster for the Sig 229 with rail, avenger style. Since i'm not currently making these, I'll throw it out there. Here's the idea: if you make these (he rather likes (W/C drum dyed leather) then let me know, including a picture of your work I can forward to him. I mean, picture of a holster for the 229 ... Short version: Give me a legitimate reason to recommend you, and i will! I'm going to tell him something TODAY.

These letters (on a checkbook) were about 1/8" high, black on red background (the customer's logo). This one was done by laying it out on plastic, cutting out the letters like a stencil, airbrush the resulting stencil, THEN cut and bevel the letters. The outside circle was about 3" across. The lettering inside the circle was about 3/8" high (capitals). After cutting, I still had to touch up the edges of the letters just a bit. In hindsight, I didn't charge NEARLY enough for that one

Very small letters can be done with the airbrush, but those particular letters may create more work than they 'solve'. If you're going to use a brush, definitely spend the extra few $$ and get the sable hair brushes.... FAR better than the camel hair or synthetics. And if you flush them out and form a point in them when you're done, they'll last for YEARS. Using the airbrush for lettering can require a little thought sometimes, but in the end it's MUCH more versatile than stamps.

That some awful purdy 'scraps' rite-cheer

Well, within limits. There comes a time that it's just too settled to make it worth it. Darker colors are worse (having more pigment to settle). With acrylics, basically if it isn't hardened, it's still good

I have one of these and some of the rolls. It works okay, but I don't use it as much as I thought I would. The designs transfer alright, but I suppose I'm spoiled on years of hand tooling Likely offering mine for sale in -- oh --- say a month or so.. Got some straps I'm going to run through it first! Really only "down side" is getting it set right to center the design on the leather, but then you'd have that with any embossing machine / strap cutter / etc. Not that difficult, but easiest way is to set it up and run as many of that type as you need, instead of switching back and forth between rolls. Then again, the sewing machine is the same way... try to do all the black stitching before switching thread ...

Alcohol or "spirit" dyes definitely settle out, and are no good. The water-based dyes I'm only guessing would be LESS likely to 'age out'.

Call it an "overstitch" -- 5 or 6 would work.

This was hard to follow. It sounds like you're talking about basically bolting a top plate in place. But I sidetrack at teh word "ram", which with those little presses I think of as being the movable part of the PUMP. But maybe you're talking about the "nub" under the horizontal bar? In that case, it might depend on how thick the plate you have. To be effective, the plate would need to extend at LEAST as far down as this "nub", and be matched side to side. You could do that by boring a hole to clear the nub (maybe 1/16" bigger diameter and 1/16" deeper), and drill and tap on each end and insert a piece of threaded rod (no need to weld or use "U"s).