JLSleather

Actually, the only reason to be in SD is the walleye fishing.

And, here's teh slot punch. Some already familiar with the way this is done, but it stands on it's own in the press - no handle needed. Punches a slot just OVER 1 5/8" long (down the middle) by about 1/4" wide. Very sharp (I think this is the second slot it punched), punches cleanly. That's a piece of 7/8 H.O. in the pic. Oh... forgot a price. I'll have to dig in receipts.. think this one is about the same price? The way it stands alone is shown in the back of this picture... a metal tab attached to some type of compressible foam to make it stand without punching outside teh slot....

Okay, then... here's teh holster clicker die. That's a 6" scale in the picture. This is made with a belt loop -- while there's no die for the loop, I'll include the pattern with the die. Oh, maybe should mention that this will likely work for the Colt Mustang also.

Oh, and somebody remind me I have a brand new slot punch from them too... A bit longer than I wanted. Could be I didn't describe what I wanted quite rightly... figures- the one time I don't send a drawing Slot punch with 'flipper' intended for use in a press (no handle). I did try it out, cuts real nice - just wrong length. Pictures of that one shortly also.

New (used twice) from TX custom dies. Makes right handed holster for the Sig P938 (and some say also the 238). Selling it at cost, and will include the stitch pattern. $75 incl shipping in US. Photo later today.

Yep, I wouldn't recommend a sharp point between the grooves, either. I jsut figured somebody would round it with a file - but that 'divider' thing certainly works. Don't think i would personally bother with threading the hole. Prolly just use a piece of drill rod, ream teh aluminum like .001 under, press it in, and cross-pin it (brass pin would be fine). One thing I do think I made a mistake with.. now that I look at it. I'd likely make the 1/4" diameter section a bit longer, so you have a straight section about 3/8" long NOT counting the radius. And I made the wider slots 3/16" deep (drew a line straight under the 3/16" radius). You have it drawn shallower here, which might be a good idea ... make it 1/8" deep, and try it out, and a guy could always take it deeper if you cared to.

I might be a bit biased (welcome for the pattern) but I don't think that looks bad at all. Like snubby, my first one certainly was NOT that clean. In fact, there are people who have been selling them for a while who don't look as good as yours!

Depends on how you make em, really. Those "50/50" pancakes are the worst culprit, I think. You know.. the front and back are basically mirror image of each other. Feels okay, mostly, but tighter on the belt than in the hand. And the closer the slots are to the weapon the more pronounced the problem. I see those "pancake" holsters that are bent back around so the slots line up and sometimes wonder if the guy making them has ever USED one. Notorious for binding, especially on the front site. But hopefully, the gun isn't relying on a pushed-in trigger area or port to retain the firearm. "Retention" isn't about forming a 'catch' somewhere. Or, maybe it is - what do I know And sometimes it's just a matter of trying to hold it still while pulling the gun. When it's worn, the belt should do that (IF the belt size is the slot size), but in the hand, not so much.

Yeah, wouldn't take that long. I was thinking if I had a lathe here, I could have made the thing in about the same time as drawing out that drawing! Only lathes i see for sale these days are either quite new (and starting about $30k) or beat so bad for so long that... well...

I like it flat.. grain down. Cover a table with cardboard, then stack hides face down on it. I'd love to have a separate "slot" for each weight / type of leather, but just don't have teh room for all that.

This might work. Honestly, I'd ream a hole and insert a steel shank ... aluminum in a chuck never a great plan Done like this, chunk of al is about 1 1/4" x 4 1/2" if you have an inserted shank. Second timeza charm

That's one right purdy drawin' ya got there I would think that you'd want a full radius up to about 1/4", and larger than that, the 1/8" radius should be fine. Sketchin' shortly ...

Yep, fits it like a marble in a coffee cup Then durn k-frames, though.. lot o difference in heft of barrel thickness (outside diameter) and ejector (shrouded, not shrouded). But hey - the handle and grips are close

K & L are back to back, and the J-frame on the left thrown in for comparison. Now, a guy could add that to say "holster for a K-frame" is quite simplistic, since you can get firearms with quite a bit of difference one to the next, and yet they are all "K". Part of the confusion comes from people who list holsters as "fits" something or other. I always say a bucket will hold your pistol, but that doesn't mean it "fits" it. 5-gallon bucket will fit the J, K, L, M N O P frames, often at the same time But you can see the cylinders are clearly not the same, for starters .. Even if the rest of the gun was all equal (they aren't) then just measuring around the cylinders (like you were wrapping leather) would give a difference of "about" 5/16 - 3/8" (ish)...

'K' will flop all over the place in a 'L' holster.

HEY that's not a snubby! Looks good, tho

Honestly, I can't be the only one this irritates. There seems to be a growing number of suppliers lately with "policies" or "terms" which state that you must purchase tracking and/or insurance, or they will not be responsible for lost / damaged packages. Just FYI for the 3 or 4 people who aren't grasping how ridiculous this is. It's simple.. if you order it, it needs to show up intact, or they owe you a refund. What BS 'excuses" are you seeing? It's the post office's fault, so they should pay for it. If it was lost or damaged in the mail, that's true, they should. But they won't unless the shipper has insured the package. And if they have NOT insured the package, they owe you a refund ANYWAY. Not your problem. You agreed to the terms of the sale, so we don't have to replace it. Yes, they do. By accepting payment from your credit card (or PayPal, since many of us use that) they are agreeing to the terms of the payment processor. Adding in some "terms" after the fact doesn't change that agreement. BUT, not my position to 'fix' everybody. So when I see this type of "conditions", I'm GONE -- no sale today boys 'n' girls ... Now, keep in mind they could just jack up the price of the materials / tools to cover the tracking / ins, but some apparently think by doing it this way that what they sell APPEARS to be priced better.

Originally planned for some gal's purse, simple enough to make this fit in a front pocket ... Sig_P938_Pok1.pdf OOOPS... that makes this holster, even tho "reinforcement' is spelled no so goody ...

I would think the most obvious and easiest thing to check (and maybe you already did) is to see that your needle is properly oriented... facing the right way -- as in to the right, or even just slightly "behind" straight across.

Dwight and Red: Where'd you boys git snaps long enough to go through all that?

I've never forgot a step in any project. Tha's my story 'n' I'm stickin' to it Still, I would have made some fancy speech here about belt makers who don't seem to remember that the OUTSIDE layer needza be longer than the INSIDE layer when you wrapping it - unless you're stretching them together ...

Your thickness range, in american, is about 9/32" - 5/16" thick. That would be like 18-20 ounce leather, which I have never purchased.

Wait.. what??#@#! I had TWO patterns that fit? Say it aint so .... What happened on your stiffener, made it short?

You might look up "clicker die". I personally find them helpful with detailed parts or curves, but a waste of time and money for straight cuts (by the time you set up the die, you could have cut it with a knife).

Cylinder 1 1/2" diameter rules out the 'J' frames. Depending on how close they measured, could go 'k' or 'L'. Now ready for the kick in the pants? Colt made an "I" frame revolver that could go here as well -- just smaller than the 'L" but bigger than the 'K'.