JLSleather

Honestly, I can't be the only one this irritates. There seems to be a growing number of suppliers lately with "policies" or "terms" which state that you must purchase tracking and/or insurance, or they will not be responsible for lost / damaged packages. Just FYI for the 3 or 4 people who aren't grasping how ridiculous this is. It's simple.. if you order it, it needs to show up intact, or they owe you a refund. What BS 'excuses" are you seeing? It's the post office's fault, so they should pay for it. If it was lost or damaged in the mail, that's true, they should. But they won't unless the shipper has insured the package. And if they have NOT insured the package, they owe you a refund ANYWAY. Not your problem. You agreed to the terms of the sale, so we don't have to replace it. Yes, they do. By accepting payment from your credit card (or PayPal, since many of us use that) they are agreeing to the terms of the payment processor. Adding in some "terms" after the fact doesn't change that agreement. BUT, not my position to 'fix' everybody. So when I see this type of "conditions", I'm GONE -- no sale today boys 'n' girls ... Now, keep in mind they could just jack up the price of the materials / tools to cover the tracking / ins, but some apparently think by doing it this way that what they sell APPEARS to be priced better.

Originally planned for some gal's purse, simple enough to make this fit in a front pocket ... Sig_P938_Pok1.pdf OOOPS... that makes this holster, even tho "reinforcement' is spelled no so goody ...

I would think the most obvious and easiest thing to check (and maybe you already did) is to see that your needle is properly oriented... facing the right way -- as in to the right, or even just slightly "behind" straight across.

Dwight and Red: Where'd you boys git snaps long enough to go through all that?

I've never forgot a step in any project. Tha's my story 'n' I'm stickin' to it Still, I would have made some fancy speech here about belt makers who don't seem to remember that the OUTSIDE layer needza be longer than the INSIDE layer when you wrapping it - unless you're stretching them together ...

Your thickness range, in american, is about 9/32" - 5/16" thick. That would be like 18-20 ounce leather, which I have never purchased.

Wait.. what??#@#! I had TWO patterns that fit? Say it aint so .... What happened on your stiffener, made it short?

You might look up "clicker die". I personally find them helpful with detailed parts or curves, but a waste of time and money for straight cuts (by the time you set up the die, you could have cut it with a knife).

Cylinder 1 1/2" diameter rules out the 'J' frames. Depending on how close they measured, could go 'k' or 'L'. Now ready for the kick in the pants? Colt made an "I" frame revolver that could go here as well -- just smaller than the 'L" but bigger than the 'K'.

Back when I did lathe work consistently, we had programs for the cnc which could turn about any radius larger than 1/32" (internal) and we had form tools which made radii from about 1/8" up to 5/16". "Dig" it out with a "normal" tool, then 'plunge' the form tool.... done If I ever get caught up on stuff, I'm not opposed to getting a small benchtop cnc lathe that would make things like this while I pound leather

Rubber cement is not intended to be permanent. It's fine for holding parts together long enough to sew or lace,but really not to take the shock of a chisel pulled out of it. I use it on small projects - and I do sometimes use a thonging chisel for lacing slits. But it's in thin leather, allowed to dry somewhat before sticking, and the parts are held down while the chisel is pulled.

My H.O. issue is the minimum order. No worries getting 10 sides, but it's the fact that to get different thickness you have to buy 20 sides, not 10. ANd 10 of all the same weight would be fine IF you could buy a splitter that comes sharp and ready to use Far as suppliers go, I tend to be a bit vocal Send me the good stuff, I'll spread the word. Send me the dregs, don't be confused - I'll say that too! Right in the center of town square, and I'll verify it with photos if needed. Far as SLC goes, they HAVE sent me POO at various times. BUT, not ALL of the leather they've sent has been bad - in fact I have been on teh phone with them before suggesting they send me some more JUST LIKE that last batch. And I ordered one side the other day from them which hasn't arrived as yet. This does seem to be their big customer base, though.. the guy who wants one or two pieces ...

Yeah, IF I had that lathe i mentioned not having I'd likely go with a simple piece of 6061 aluminum about 1" dia. The stuff is cheap, polishes to an insane mirror finish, doesn't rust (or stain leather), and 1" is enough to keep the 'flex' out of it, without creating a 9 million sfpm speed (remember that the 1.5" is moving 1.5 times faster at the same RPM)

I like the idea too. But it's tough to get anybody to make ONE of anything any more -- everybody is so automated they want orders for 1000 -- or they'll make you 1 but bill you for the 1,000 I can run a lathe -- manual and / or cnc - but the trick is where to put one!

'80/20' may not be in any textbooks.. just sumthin seemed like it might make sense to folks A few revolver holsters to finish up and a couple of belts to carve, and maybe I can get back to the "drawing board"....

A word about Etsy and how it works over there ... These pattern files are currently available on Etsy due to bookkeeping concerns (I pay a small fee, but I don't calculate international taxes). Some of you are now asking .. SO !@!@$#$%!??! There are files available FREE on my web site, which are also available on etsy for a small fee (like 50¢). This is not a mistake, it's just that they can't be listed over there for free,and I'm not even allowed to tell you that they are available "off - etsy" in the listings. BUT, they are there so those who are downloading other files ANYWAY can just get those there without going to another site. SO THEN... DO check the web site for the FREE ones FIRST ...

Some of the spitting could be water getting in the air line, too. If you don't already have one, get a moisture trap for the air line.

Okay, I'll guess with ya Ask your customer for the RED measurements in the pic, in which case you may not even NEED a blue gun (stitch and send, he can form). Judging by the shape and [apparent] size, I'd lean towards a K-frame (looks a bit like the old M19) EXCEPT for that lug, which may put it closer to the 686 (which is an "L"). Better yet, ask your customer to measure the cylinder. Caliper, or drop it out and use a ruler, whatever. All of which is the long version of saying "I don't know,too".

I aint heard nuthin. Jus sayin' if ya like the cowboy machine and service, and you want something in the thickness and thread range, the 227 might work for ya. I don't own a cowboy machine, but seems like the folks what got em is happy with em.

I think you're going to find that the .45 is a good 1/32" wider in the slide. You might ask the boys at Duncan's if they have that model.. I know they sold teh tactical version at one time ...

The RB-5 has to be held down to reverse

IF you are happy with the 3200, and the service from those people, you might look at the 227R That one uses the same thread sizes and in fact the same needle as the Consew

Are we not thinking this is the SAME machine?

Lookin' purdy good. Couple "tips" on the basketweave for what it's worth.. maybe personal preference.... I would use a smaller basket stamp - if you have one. And, if guy wanneda git all fancy, a guy could draw a line on the pattern (first page showing the assembly) from the top of the slot to the top of the other slot. Then use that to draw a line 3/4" or 1" down from that. Then actually mark that line on your front panel and use it as a guide for your basket stamp. When you put the holster on, the basket design will be level