JLSleather

I use a 23 needle with 207 thread. But keep in mind that not all needles that say 23 are the same.

7/8 more often than not.

Yep, I would. Get some of the snow moved, and I might be due for a trip myself. If it was an hour and a half, I could pick up a few sides. But since I'd likely fly out, have to get considerably more to make it worth the trip.

To answer your question.. yes, there is a difference. Both work quite well, though. I've used both quite a bit, and have not had any problems -- both tool very nicely. For single layer UNlined belts, I'd go with 8/9 or even 9/10. Most of my belts are 7/8 lined with 3/4 and edge stitched.

Of course, the down side of having only one machine, if something happens and the machine goes down, then no work is getting out the door. With two -- even if they don't match -- you might be able to complete orders with the second one while the first is being fixed.

Yep, minimum 10, and that's 10 of the same weight. True, it's a chunk of change. But the "B" grade is $7.70/foot -- NOT the $10/foot you're paying at SLC. $2.25 per foot times 25 feet is an extra $56 per side. So going through 10 sides, you'd pay $560 LESS going to H.O. Perhaps the BIG thing is, I've tried that just getting a couple of sides / backs at a time. But then you end up paying about 25% more for what is supposed to be the same leather. Figure it the other way around. $1000 gets 4 sides at these "retail" places, or 5 sides at H.O. If I lived in PA, I'd take a trip over to W/C and pick out some leather - which it seems may be the only way to do it these days. Or if you have someone doing leather in your area, maybe "split" an order from H.O.

I've never personally liked black thread on natural leather (though the other way around is 'ok'). Still, my mistake... seems NONE of my glock holsters fit the Rugers worth beans

So,.. how much interest do we have for "80/20" pancake holsters? By that, I mean most of the pancake styles you see are "flat", or "50/50". "FLAT" .... with the back piece perhaps laid on a table and the "front" or outside piece molded over the weapon. The curve of the body is largely done with the 'wings' ONLY; "50/50"... involves two pieces -- front and back - which are quite similar. The stitch seams are basically a 'meet in the middle' situation. Lately, I get requests for holsters with some curve, but with the seams closer to the body. SOME people (usually with narrow waists) find that the smaller guns can tend to bind at the front site on a '50'50' holster. Just the nature of pancake holsters, which is made worse the closer the slots are to the firearm. So, it becomes a trade-off... trading function with belt real estate (foot print). The answer it would seem is an '80'20' holster. Accomplished by making the same general type construction as the '50/50' but with the front or outside piece made larger to wrap partially around -- past the center line of the weapon. Perhaps the easiest way to describe it is to show it (?). Looking down the back end of the Glock 43 RH. Some 'natural' curve in the rig, NOT 'flexed' around to accomodate a belt or line up the slots (which is done frequently and leads to the issue described).

Why are you boys determined you need such a wide slot?

You don't want it to slide through loosely. I wouldn't own a holster where the slots are wider than the belt. No, I'm not giving the long version of that.. just that I won't own one and i won't sell one. I don't put 1 3/4" slots for a 1 1/2" belt.

1.5" from Weaver. Works pretty good, though I haven't had this one long enough to tell you how long it holds an edge.

I have the cobra 4. I'm getting by, but honestly I couldn't' look a guy in the face and recommend it.

I been thinkin' bout wunna them cowboy 3200 things. I havent used one, but I'm sure it will do what you describe.

Sponge. On the back side of the leather.

When I order something, I want a reasonable time frame for shipment / delivery. This type of thing happens so regularly any more that I simply can't be bothered to argue it. If you can't fill my order in the time stated, and you can't be bothered to let me know what's going on and when I should expect it, then just tell it to the credit card company when you're notified of the charge back. But that's just me. My personal opinion, there is NO tool worth a 3-month wait.

Getting tougher and tougher to get a decent piece of cow these days. But, most of what I'm using at the moment is from W/C, holstered skirting leather. I'm getting some work done, but there's WAY too much waste in a hide any more. Personally, I'm thinking if a guy wants natural veg tanned cowhide for tooling and / or molding, go straight to H.O. The leather still isn't flawless, but then it hasn't been marked up along the way by retailers either.... The last I bought was that at Weaver. I paid $8.75/ft for one and $8.93 for the other. But I could have got "A" grade at H.O. for $8.03 (that's last year price, I haven't ordered there since the 1st), and would have been much nicer leather.

Shhoooot.. did I just get embarrassed? That's lookin' purdy good - but does that work okay with the bullets "backwards" ? Personal preference maybe -- Still, these designs are MEANT to be customized to suit you, so have at 'er

Yep, it's veg tanned (what I always referred to as) tooling leather. I tried a couple of sides, just to see what they were putting out. The ":holster" one has lines on the back, looks like it was from sort of feed mechanism (guessing).

I just got a couple sides from weaver, one "holster" and one not. I didn't return them, but I would say that if that's standard quality for them, I wouldn't order there with any regularity. The one side has "marks" on the flesh side", looks like may be from a pressure roller or similar. It's on the back, and the projects I'm making will get lined anyway -- otherwise I would have taken that less well. I use Fiebing's dyes, both the "alchohol" and the "oil" dyes. And you can dye before OR after you mold it.

http://duncansoutdoor.com/ They haven't put up an updated availability list for a good while (usually better update than currently). But I just call them anyway.

I don't make 1/4" thick belts unless SPECIFICALLY ASKED, and I haven't been for a long time. My belts are generally right around 3/16" thick -- a 7/8 or 8/9 oz front lined with a 3/4 oz backing. I "could" use 2 5/6 oz, but i like to get the tooling depth. No problems with wrinkling. Just got an email from a cop with a new belt made of 7/8 + 3/4 oz- loves the way it carries a pistol, mags, cuffs, small flashlight... no worrries. Course, no "fancy" tooling on the duty stuff....

calfskin is fine --- it will hold up much better than the pig some 2 or 3 oz goat even better. and wrinkles are not mandatory.

Hey, Brad - just saw this. I don't have the taurus, but you're the second person to mention that one since the new year, so maybe i should? Good to hear the patterns are working for you. There's a new one available for the S/W shield uploaded yesterday. That one's popular enough maybe I should get ANOTHER mold for that one?

More stable -- less "wobbly" AND more strength.

Don't sell yourself short .--- that glock was a NICE looking holster, too! In case "behind the gun" wasn't clear, I mean this....