JLSleather

I like a LL point - and usually use a 24 needle and 277 thread. Robert got me doing it that way, and I like it. I've tried variations, but usually end up with that.

Those work pretty welll --- and that's about HALF teh price you usually see them at.

Well, before the experts arrive, you might check WHERE they are longer. If they are longer from the mounting screw down, that's a problem. If the extra length is at the top, that shouldn't be a concern. But I agree -- I wouldn't alter the machine to suit some different feet - if it runs fine with the "originals". I used to have one of those machines, and it ran quite well for quite a while. When I sold it, it was just for the floor space, still ran great. In fact, I consider getting rid of it a mistake, which I'm blaming the wife for (if she would have leased me a bigger shop, I'd have room for more )

Is it LONGER, or is it simply hitting SOONER? http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/206RB-5.pdf

I helped somebody?!#$R!@!! Cool

Sweet Hey, if it's open season, do you need a tag to take rifle slings down yer way, or just a checkbook!

Depend on the size or the cover. and whether you'll use a gusset piece of just sew the zipper to the outside piece. I usually use a 4/5 oz gusset, #5 brass zipper tape, and 7/8 oz main body leather.

Couple things to keep in mind: Used in moderation, neatsfoot won't darken your leather significantly. Many finishes do affect color shades (and reflection) somewhat. Not all H.O. leather is created equal (that's why there are various grades).

Thanks - always like seein' what others came up with from 'em. Looks good (I've always liked that contrasting stitch!).

Personal preference with alcohol or oil dyes. I've dyed the leather at the very end, and I've also used drum-dyed leather that was already colored before I cut it out. Both work fine. With some of the stains and water-based products, I've seen some that I think made a difference in the order. But I don't use those, so I was basically taking someone else's word for the way it was done.

Agreed. I don't like to replace things that aren't broken. Plus, that $3k you aren't spending on that, pays for quite a few dies! If I was making 100 of the same thing (at a time) then the speed benefit would add up. But to cut two of these and 5 of those, just not worth the 4 minutes you'd gain. But realistically, it's not just the cost of the machine.. it's how much floor space, and am I going to have to wire in for 220v-3phase.. blahblah...

Oh -- I like good looking projects. It should be attractive and appealing. But I buy things that DO something - and not just leather. If it doesn't DO anything, then it's useless and I won't have it around. You could ask [quite a few] old girlfriends Rule around here.. I like it CLEAN. And if I have to move something more than twice to clean under it, and I didn't need it in between, then it's GONE. Colorful or not colorful isn't really an issue to me, but if I ask "what does it do?" or "what is it for?" and the answer is 'to look at'... GONE. Oh, and there are a few more descriptions that will get things "gone" but maybe not worth posting here

http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/206RB-5.pdf

Yes. Doesn't do all that much good to immobilize one and not the other. But, like I said, mine "float". Faster would be nice, but I simply can't justify $3k (or more) to gain some seconds.

Over 900 Probably more than 25 of them from here

OOOOOPS Looked right at the laser, said "Colt" on the side of it, and the "LM" didn't sink in! Nice find, Snubbyfan -- at that price it's likely worth a shot. I got a pocketlite aluminum, but no laser.

I hadda look it up.. don't think I ever held a colt laser Lookin at the thing, it wouldn't fit the XSP, so it hadda be the pocketlite. I gonna step outda way and let somebody answer this, but I'm guessing you gonna need the gun.

What happened? Did you figure out it doesn't stitch back in the same holes? Or were you thinking that they somehow forgot to include a manual? Wait. were the bolts missing, so you can't bolt it to the base?

About any brand of "antique" dye or finish can do that. More likely that piece was purchased already like that.

Actually, I used the term "float"... but nothing to do with pushing bearings, chubby girls, anything like that. These presses are far from precision machines -- they wander a bit on the slide. You can move teh top bar forward / backward some (try it and you'll see). These are not precision machined dovetails. So, to avoid having a die BURIED in the cutting surface on one end and barely getting through the material on the other end, I allow it to 'float". You "could" bring the press down on both upper and lower plates, and then weld them in place with some pressure on it. And if you're going to weld them in, that IS how I would recommend doing it... so teh plates come down parallel (ish) and aren't putting twisting pressure on dies that can be expensive. And weld the bottom bar support in place right then also. BUT like i said, the top may not come down quite the same way next time.. so that's no guarantee. Perhaps teh best way to describe it... maybe to look at Red's C-clamp. Does it have a ball-socket pivoting surface on one end of the screw? THAT is what I'm talking about.. allows the pressure to be in line even if the surface isn't .. quite. Perhaps "self-leveling" would be a better term?

I almost forgot how much work went inta them varmints ...

I have slot punches that are about 3/16" wide. I say 'about' because they have a necessary draft angle to avoid plugging.. so they're a bit wider the higher up.. so by the time you burnish inside the slots, you got about 1/4" - which is PLENTY wide, even for a 1/4" thick belt. As a rule, the more material you can leave there, the more strength (I've seen some that were cut so thin that what was left was just plain floppy). Side note, that's also the reason why my stitch lines go the way they do ... I mean, I like the look, but really it's about strength and stability. Oh, slot or 'bag' punches.... I had the one for the slots in the picture done at texas custom dies, and my friend Robert said he liked the ones he got at Weaver Leather. Both a bit over $60, but they work a long time without losing an edge.

Actually, I think it's a layout issue. The order of steps you have should work just fine.. you're just putting your stitch line to far out. You'll need to suck it in up against the trigger guard, and then the process will be fine. What you do is basically the same as I do, except I generally stain after the form. Fact is, looks like you're on the right track.. suck those stitch lines in a bit, and maybe a little less wide on the slots. Do you have some gun molds you can use, or the actuals? There are some patterns on my site you can download free (translate $0.00). Not that you have THOSE exact guns, but if you can get hold of the molds, cost you about what -- maybe $10 to make a holster with one of those patterns. This way, you can see the way I laid out the stitch line and what that does to / for the fit. This one is done 1) cut out pattern 2) glue 3) sand edges 4) stitch 7) burnish edges 6) wet mold 5) stain 7) burnish edges 8) apply finish That fits a 5" 1911 from Colt, Springfield, RIA, Ruger, Wilson, and maybe some others

Anybody got a Glock 42 with LaserLyte?

Yeah, some of the things that pass these days is.. well-- not my favorite I don't get to carve much as I used to, but somewhere along the line I decided if I never sold another chunk of leather, I'd still tool anyway!