JLSleather

That sounds like what I use (277 n 207 n #24)

Nah... I was talkin bout the 2nd and 3rd pics in yer orijnal. And if you mean 5 hours from side o leather to done, that aint bad

Let your leather dry out some more before tooling. Still a bit wet, there. Finished rig looks purdy good thow.

346 seems pretty big for a 24 needle. Guess if you have it working, pay no attention to me ! Certainly could be a number of things when you change material and/or thickness. One thing you might check before getting out the big hammer -- If you were running fine, and then not, check the orientation of the needle. Sometimes a slight rotation will fixya.

I've seen a LOT of holsters over the years. If you're making them in leather, then you should know leather. And if you're making it to use it for a gun, then you should know something about guns. I've seen some beautiful tooling on leather holsters. And I've seen some great looking holsters without any tooling at all. In the end, I certainly think that the best holsters are made by those familiar with firearms. Some holsters, you almost have to wonder if the guy who made that has ever actually used a gun. Oh, and of course there's always that marketing guy --- doesn't really know leather OR firearms, but thinks he can sell you on his idea anyway

What the heck.. call me too Send me a message, I'll git ya a phone number. UNLESS you think that anything I might say, I should be willing to say here? Maybe that kind of integrity is old news these days

Welcome fellas. This thread will expand -- plenty of room to put up pics of holsters you made with this

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FREE 1911 5-inch pancake style holster pattern now available. NO curved slots http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/holster-diy/ Oh, yeah.. it makes this one..

And WHY would it need to? Thread is far stronger than many people around here seem to think. A LOT of holsters are sewn with either 207 or 277 thread (or a combination of both).

Are you just absolutely determined to use "paint"? I prefer dyes for color. Even with black

That "area" should retain the weapon WITHOUT molding the port. f r i c t i o n.

Not familiar at all with the Techsew. But I know a guy who had a cobra 18 and liked it - until something went wrong and he found the "support" less than he was led to expect. He sold that one. For the same money, you might consider the Cowboy 3200. Lots of fellas on here can give you their opinion on that one. It will go down as low as 69 thread and an 18 needle (which i think is about as low as a leather guy needs to go) but still give you some room on the high side for your collars and such. or the 227.

You can set most snaps with a #2 and a #6. For buckle tongue holes, I prefer an oval punch to the round holes.

Why not just stop the inside layer at the fold? What is that second layer doing for you, other than making a bunch of bulky bulge right there?

Me, too --- I'm not big on that broad, flowing "reinforcement panel" on a holster. Basically just making it thicker, while trying to conceal it, which seems ... uhh. not the best idea. In fact, often a holster doesn't require any "reinforcement" at all. But, I do 'have' them and have done them. As a rule, I mold it if it's solid color and/or plain, and I don't mold it if it's tooled. But, like I said, unless you're tooling it, I dont have much use for a full panel. Something more like this (which, by the way,is also about 1" wide)..

Other way around, actually. The outer layer is made a tad longer (NOT the inner layer shorter). I could explain that, and since it comes up so often maybe I'll just write the full version one day for everybody to see and a stack of goofs to debate and try to dismiss. When I look for "rigidity" in a belt, I mean side to side, not end to end. I'm talking about one that doesn't "roll" beneath the belt loop (usually the very back one first to go).

Well, reducing the dye will give you MORE LIQUID. As for matching, there are various levels of OCD. If you want to make belts, and you're insistent about matching, then you will likely want a splitter, or at least a very good skiver. A thousand times I've seen nice looking belts I thought were assaulted by being given a leather keeper that doesn't match. With natural (undyed) leather, the 7 or 8 oz leather you used for the body and the 4 oz (ish) leather you used for the keeper don't match. The color is not quite right, or the grain is a bit different, etc. Often, applying a finish will make the difference more obvious. Here's the 'work arounds"... There is the antique puke. Some dump that junk on everything they do -- it's purpose is to HIDE (the story goes, it's to accent, but you'll see soon enough). Some geniuses have come up with the "plan" to dye everything dark, and then claim that doesn't matter. But, you can tell, more often than not. And it's not something you have to go looking for... if it doesn't match, you'll see it. It's less obvious than on natural leather, but still .... Oh, and there ARE those who tell you that hermann oak leather is consistent across different weights and always the same. It makes a nice story, gotta give em that! But you can get different shades and textures even within the same hide. Really, if you want it to ACTUALLY match, cut the keepers from the same hide, and split it down to the proper thickness.

Yep, what he said I nearly always 'line' belts. I say nearly because I got a call from a guy who wants 6 belts NOT lined, NOT stitched, and some other stuff. With tooled belts, it adds to the finished look (and makes it lay flatter longer). If you're looking to sell them, often people will prefer a lined belt. Now, I'm not one of those 1/4" thick belt supporters. I've done them when someone asked for them, but I've also had those same people back to ask for a belt not quite so heavy. The double layer plus stitching makes a very solid belt, but 1/4" thick is more suited to towing your vehicle than carrying a firearm. Most of mine are 12 oz (7/8 + 3/4) to 14 oz (double 7). OH YEAH... I just passed up a request for a double layer belt with kydex sandwiched between the layers. I mention it here just because something like that would be one more reason to line a belt (and consider money belts also). But, I really can't be bothered to do this one, so I've recommended they contact George B. George, if you're not interested in something like this and would prefer not to be referred, just holler

If I'm going to dip it, I don't reduce it. Full strength.

I don't have a belt sander, and I get by jus' fine I used to do woodwork, back when i had the space, and a belt sander was nice. Also table saw, router, variable drill press, planer, shaper, and some hand tools (and a million billion clamps). Been thinking about getting some more room and opening a wood shop -- in which case I'll need a belt sander. BUT, back to leather craft. Cut with a SHARP knife (yes, I know it's harder to find a sharp knife now than it used to be). Save the 400 grit for sanding walnut or oak.

Yep. Still kaint cutno leather, but the trip wernt wasted!

And CERTAINLY that HB thing would do this, as long as you can spray about 20 lbs pressure consistently. Different on teh airbrush end, but I was thinking the compressor end was 1/4"? I replaced the compressor end on mine so long ago with a quick coupler, so I don't really remember that either!

I think that's probably the Paasche model H. Great, simple, single action brush - nearly indestructable. And they work great.. no reason why any work I've ever shown couldn't be done with that one. In fact, for applying finishes / top coats, I think the single action / syphon feed is better ... easier to clean!

I've made those "cobra" things ... probably because some customer saw them in a tandy catalog Some people want them lined with suede leathers. Not that it makes sense to me, but whatever.. I do it Stitch within 1/8" of the edge, no worries. OR, you might consider a 1" strap the full length, and then just add a 'pad" from teh same leather --- say like 2 1/2" wide x 9 or 10", and just line and stitch the pad (only).