JLSleather

Few things I mighta done a bit different, I would have either stitched across the top, or not put the groove there at all - same on the belt slots. Still it looks nice. interesting to see another pic of it now that it's 4 1/2 years old

The slightly revised version is available here. Still the same from this front view... Can be printed on home 8.5" x 11" paper, but on two sheets which can be easily aligned.

Colt Commander 1911 Pattern Too easy anyway. My kindergarten teacher would be proud

http://www.etsy.com/listing/199416442/glock-19-23-32-avenger-askins-style

Well, I do it, but I'm not lovin' it These days, I remind people how it's cheaper to have it stitched! This one was like 11 x 14", and by the time it was half laced ...

.44 Mag covers a good bit of ground... S/W 29 / 629 (half a dozen styles) Colt Anaconda Ruger Blackhawk (and Redhawk)

Because it CAN do 3 layers of 8 ounce does not mean it SHOULD do that That machine, that's absolutely the upper limit - and best to run about 60% of max capacity where you can help it. And you're right.. the 277 spool is best set off to the side fer hand stitchin'

What gun does that suit? I'm wondering about the placement of the snap on your safety strap.. looks like it might go ta banging the cylinder takin the gun inan out (?). Oh, did you punch lacin' holes from the back side? Looks like maybe yer punch was blowin' out a bit.

Might just be the size of the photos. Are those 11" pads? Oh, not meant to insult,but with the #138 thread, I assume Bob also recommended a larger needle?

What's the thread? Can you get away with one size heavier in that machine? Like a #92? Or a 138 if you dont want to buy every size of thread. I know it sounds like I'm just bein' an a**, but if your work didn't look worth commenting, then I wouldn't. I think you could really accent those size pads with one size bigger thread, and maybe one size bigger stitch length. Not to be taken wrong, for a guy who just got the machine, I think you did quite well. Besides, I like to see the youngsters jump in -- only way ta learn!

It is 'serviceable' and solid. Holds a gun jus' fine and hangs pretty well. Alterations - which I still haven't got around to putting in - would include showing a bit more trigger area (as a rule, I like them exposed or not, this landed kinda in the middle) and dropping the whole rig just a bit on the belt (slightly lower riding). 'Preciate yer comments

If you're gluing layers and THEN cutting, keep in mind that the pressure goes up accordingly (the thickness cut is part of the equation, so thicker = more tonnage). I never glue and then form.. wrinkles suck

I cant see any issue with 20 ton.. in fact I'm sure 12 ton would do er. ROUGH math, the pressure for BLANKING a holster is about 12 ton. But this is figuring a blank that is 24" long and 12" wide, which you'd think would be enough, and that's in 8 ounce leather. BUT, you aren't blanking, you're SLICING, which reduces pressure by about 6x, if the die is sharp. Seriously, only way you'd ever deflect that sucka is to bottom out the die and continue pressing. Well, the die not sitting straight, but i'm assuming you'd check that.

Steel plate top and bottom of what? Clicker press? Shop press? 1/2" steel plate isn't going to be bothered by cutting leather. The shear strength of leather is so low it takes.. well..you've put holes in it with a little hand punch, right? It your plates are flat, and you dont bottom out the machine (like dive in the shallow end) it's fine. I'm cheap, so I would have to need quite a few of the same thing to justify a die, but if they're helpful...

Yep, that's the one - thanks!

Anybody make a dummy gun for this, or are we molding with something else?

Actually, I was suggesting the other way around. While I agree that it's the water, I think the glued areas are retarding EVAPORATION more than penetration. Still some water in the holster when you (and I) dyed it. Not sure who decided I said it's the glue .... though it certainly was the glued areas.

Maybe that's the trick.. i didn't ask for that

Did they get the 'issues' under control? I like the look of W/C leathers, but I need a holster to firm up in the end!

Sad, isn't it.. when people think 'handmade' should be identified by flaws ... Not their fault, entirely. They've had YEARS of people "excusing" flaws by saying it's hand made!

And now we're getting somewhere.

I'd be interested in taking a look at this. PM sent.

I got one of these recently too. Same saddle tan dye. When it dried, the color was slightly different EVERYWHERE GLUE WAS applied. I don't know if it's the glue that caused it, but I've NEVER had that issue before. Since we both used that dye before, and now have the same issue in the same week, bad batch of dye? I'm not subscribing to the Fiebing's dye is no good club, because I've used it for years and never had this issue. Also not signing up for the "use an airbrush" list. I have several airbrushes, and I think I know what I'm doing with them. Still DIP dyeing has been done with these dyes for YEARS with no uneven color problems. Not that it has anything to do with the current issue, but since it was brought up, I personally think that buying an airbrush just to "do a fade" (meaning close yer eyes and blast close to the edge) is like buying a Porsche to go get groceries. I'll probably get away with dyeing this holster solid black.. we'll see (I really do NOT think it's the leather). Meanwhile, this is airbrush 101 (basic step 1 type). Something less than this is .. well.. something less. Oh, in case nobody recognizes it, that rose is an old, old, old craftaid design. I don't own the craftaid, but we though the picture was nice, so... no tooling.. airbrushed Fiebing's dye ONLY.

So, is he a fairy? Dressed like a fairy. Oh, wait .. maybe that's more of an elf?

Are you sure it's the blue? I mean, what if they bought it blue, and added the BLACK ?????