JLSleather

Most of leather stuff is discretionary -- personal preference. There are some rules that just 'are', and many of us have a few of our own "always" and "never". I 'always' apply finish before hardware. Meaning almost always. I wouldn't line with suede. Suede nap can hold on to 'stuff', and there will be some that low to the ground. A piece of suede with little particles of dirt stuck in.. think sand paper or scrubbing sponge ... Your concho has two screws, so less an issue than one with one screw. Still, a mention... If yours had one screw, and you line and stitch, then the concho could rotate out of position, and there would be no access to the screw to fix it. You might be able to twist it back, but that can mar the surface, which you were tryin to prevent. Better to punch a hole in the liner to get at the screw (the screw head would be 'set in' anyway). You could 'get away' with lining only that area, and no lining on the buckle ends. I would skive the edge so it tapers off, though, not just stop. Doesn't need to be meticulous, just remove the big step down (which could let 'crap' up under there when worn). And I always apply color / finish before lining and stitching. Always meaning vast majority of the time

Trick sometimes, is not to let any one person influence YOUR work.

Boss - I think you'll find that with a lined holster, you won't need the "stiffener" panel. Sometimes on tooled holsters, I line 'em just for the stiffness, but leaves the face open (more space for tooling). With two layers back to back, you'll likely find it firm (and thick) enough. For a weapon that small, I wouldn't use anything heavier than 4/5 if you're doubling it (and 3/4 is enough if you have it). As for the "hump" you discussed, you can get a CLOSE-ISH idea of where to run it by .... Lay yer pistol on the paper rotate it to the angle (cant) you want draw in yer slots, belt width draw another line - parallel to the belt line - at the height you want (keepin one eye on the trigger guard). Wonder if this might help. If not, toss it in the trash, and not to worry

It's a 'stiffener' in the sense that two lighter leathers pulling against each other is more rigid than a single layer of the same thickness. A "cord of three strands is very strong". A single layer of 9 ounce leather hardened up is pretty firm -- at first. Two layers will stay firmer longer.

I like jus a little more where possible.. not so much for trigger as for balance. Looks like that would work, though

You should list those for sale over there. Guy makin' a mint selling some not nearly as good lookin as yours! https://www.etsy.com/shop/FatCatLeather?ref=ss_profile

Velcro stitched on

So, instead of thread twisted, you had thread okay and needle "twisted"? Well, good news is it was a simple fix!

Yeah, you can try different thread (once verified that's the issue). But, as you already know.. getting a new spool does not guarantee thread that aint the same way! I mean, a guy "could" uncoil an entire spool and wind it, but who's gonna go thru all that?@#F$t@

Likely twisted thread, Chief. I had that for a bit, always with the darker colored thread. You can 'test' this to be sure that is (er aint) yer problem. Leave the bobbin and tensions alone. Take yer top thread all the way out. Cut off a couple pulls of it - like far as you can spread yer arms twice (or 3). Hold one end up, let the other end fall. Got coils? Now, pinch it with a thumb and a finger and pull it out clean to the end, taking the coil out (about the same as you would if you were waxing yer lace) Run down it couple o times. Then wind it halfway straight back on the spool, don' have to be flawlessly wrapped. Thread it back through and sttich a piece o scrap. That may eliminate the issue - and then you know that yer thread is twisted (which, would be my guess). I'd try this before messin with the tensions at all. I had this issue a while back, couldn't figure why the white and the natural go right on through, but the dark brown from the same supplier was causing grief.

That site you've been checking is basically a copy of the information contained in Stohlman's books (30 years ago) Pictorial Carving Finesse and Figure Carving Finesse. I don't have mine any more -- one MORE thing that got away -- but I know that the figure book had a detailed carving of a ram. And the pictorial book has some really good info on coloring. I've seen books - and I'm the last one to suggest that leather crafters go buy yet another something other than leather - but these are actually worth having.

YIKES that's a lot o' backgroundin' Comin' along, though - looks good so far! I was sure I saw a ram done around here somewhere...

Plus, piece of paper might jus be 'nough to cause you to see a stupid mistake about to happen. Well, I mean me -- surely none of YOU would do that

Exactly. Piece of paper is what,... 3 fer a penny ?

http://www.goligerleather.com/saddlery.html I've tried others, but .... Of course, if you have the money to pay for it and the space to store it, you just buy 20 sides at a time direct from H.O.

It actually sounds like (and looks from teh vid) either the dogs are riding too high, or the pressure is cranked too low. It's only hitting in that spot, like eccentric circles ...

Red -- The "named" clicker press is generally powered, some pneumatic and some hydraulic, has a platen intended and built for larger work area. The "shop" press - what we call that anyway - is generally hydraulic [because it's] intended to press considerable force very slowly.Bearings, bushings, piston sleeves, where the 'fit' is often even money or even interference fit. As you see from lookin' around LW, the shop press can be adapted to do the work of the [so-called] clicker, generally for considerably less money. Production boys be silly not to go with the clicker for the speed, but for 1-of or even 20-of, the cheaper route might be fine.

Two other things you might check ... the darker threads may at times tend to be a bit stiff (due to the dye), which can affect 'stuff'. I've had black spools that I set off to use for hand stitching cuz it SURE wadn't goin thru the machine (though white, red, and brown worked just fine at the same settings). Also, the TWIST. Went through that recently with some dark brown #138 thread. It was the right DIRECTION of twist, but didn't want to uncoil smoothly. Finally "figured it out" by cutting about 5 yards off the spool, pulling the 'coil' out of it, re-insert, and then it worked fine (coming off the SAME spool without changing anything else). Yeah, I know -- not that helpful, right? Sometimes it really is that little simple detail...

exactly my point. If you're cutting handbags, or holsters, then a long straight cut may actually be WASTING leather.

Might try it on scrap first (instead of turning a project INTO scrap - which I've already done for you!). A larger needle may help, but I think the 22/#138 combo you're using should be fine. More likely you have a piece of material with inconsistent firmness.

I don't know what "accurate" would be - that would depend on what you're using the leather for. A long straight cut is nice for belts, not so much for round-bottom handbags. What changed? I mean, if shoulders were working for you, why stop buying shoulders?

Ooops.. that got away from me -- didn't see tha question. That's lined with S-T Leather's "billfold sides" in brown. I used to buy that stuff for - well - billfolds. But this side was a bit heavier than usual, so .... it got stuck to this. Bag outside is 5/6 oz HO, and the strap is the same 5/6 lined with a 2/3 and stitched.

Sounds like you know what you want.. should be easy enough to make your own template. Posterboard works well for low-production runs (less than 1/day). Then, you're only talking about taking the belt down 1/8" per side, so you could make this as gradual or as steep as you like.

Click yer name, upper right, 'n' click "my content"...

We aint got no pictures, so toughta tell. The oil dyes will buff up to a pretty good shine all alone, so very possibly that super sheen crap?