JLSleather

I don't know what "accurate" would be - that would depend on what you're using the leather for. A long straight cut is nice for belts, not so much for round-bottom handbags. What changed? I mean, if shoulders were working for you, why stop buying shoulders?

Ooops.. that got away from me -- didn't see tha question. That's lined with S-T Leather's "billfold sides" in brown. I used to buy that stuff for - well - billfolds. But this side was a bit heavier than usual, so .... it got stuck to this. Bag outside is 5/6 oz HO, and the strap is the same 5/6 lined with a 2/3 and stitched.

Sounds like you know what you want.. should be easy enough to make your own template. Posterboard works well for low-production runs (less than 1/day). Then, you're only talking about taking the belt down 1/8" per side, so you could make this as gradual or as steep as you like.

Click yer name, upper right, 'n' click "my content"...

We aint got no pictures, so toughta tell. The oil dyes will buff up to a pretty good shine all alone, so very possibly that super sheen crap?

Few things I mighta done a bit different, I would have either stitched across the top, or not put the groove there at all - same on the belt slots. Still it looks nice. interesting to see another pic of it now that it's 4 1/2 years old

The slightly revised version is available here. Still the same from this front view... Can be printed on home 8.5" x 11" paper, but on two sheets which can be easily aligned.

Colt Commander 1911 Pattern Too easy anyway. My kindergarten teacher would be proud

http://www.etsy.com/listing/199416442/glock-19-23-32-avenger-askins-style

Well, I do it, but I'm not lovin' it These days, I remind people how it's cheaper to have it stitched! This one was like 11 x 14", and by the time it was half laced ...

.44 Mag covers a good bit of ground... S/W 29 / 629 (half a dozen styles) Colt Anaconda Ruger Blackhawk (and Redhawk)

Because it CAN do 3 layers of 8 ounce does not mean it SHOULD do that That machine, that's absolutely the upper limit - and best to run about 60% of max capacity where you can help it. And you're right.. the 277 spool is best set off to the side fer hand stitchin'

What gun does that suit? I'm wondering about the placement of the snap on your safety strap.. looks like it might go ta banging the cylinder takin the gun inan out (?). Oh, did you punch lacin' holes from the back side? Looks like maybe yer punch was blowin' out a bit.

Might just be the size of the photos. Are those 11" pads? Oh, not meant to insult,but with the #138 thread, I assume Bob also recommended a larger needle?

What's the thread? Can you get away with one size heavier in that machine? Like a #92? Or a 138 if you dont want to buy every size of thread. I know it sounds like I'm just bein' an a**, but if your work didn't look worth commenting, then I wouldn't. I think you could really accent those size pads with one size bigger thread, and maybe one size bigger stitch length. Not to be taken wrong, for a guy who just got the machine, I think you did quite well. Besides, I like to see the youngsters jump in -- only way ta learn!

It is 'serviceable' and solid. Holds a gun jus' fine and hangs pretty well. Alterations - which I still haven't got around to putting in - would include showing a bit more trigger area (as a rule, I like them exposed or not, this landed kinda in the middle) and dropping the whole rig just a bit on the belt (slightly lower riding). 'Preciate yer comments

If you're gluing layers and THEN cutting, keep in mind that the pressure goes up accordingly (the thickness cut is part of the equation, so thicker = more tonnage). I never glue and then form.. wrinkles suck

I cant see any issue with 20 ton.. in fact I'm sure 12 ton would do er. ROUGH math, the pressure for BLANKING a holster is about 12 ton. But this is figuring a blank that is 24" long and 12" wide, which you'd think would be enough, and that's in 8 ounce leather. BUT, you aren't blanking, you're SLICING, which reduces pressure by about 6x, if the die is sharp. Seriously, only way you'd ever deflect that sucka is to bottom out the die and continue pressing. Well, the die not sitting straight, but i'm assuming you'd check that.

Steel plate top and bottom of what? Clicker press? Shop press? 1/2" steel plate isn't going to be bothered by cutting leather. The shear strength of leather is so low it takes.. well..you've put holes in it with a little hand punch, right? It your plates are flat, and you dont bottom out the machine (like dive in the shallow end) it's fine. I'm cheap, so I would have to need quite a few of the same thing to justify a die, but if they're helpful...

Yep, that's the one - thanks!

Anybody make a dummy gun for this, or are we molding with something else?

Actually, I was suggesting the other way around. While I agree that it's the water, I think the glued areas are retarding EVAPORATION more than penetration. Still some water in the holster when you (and I) dyed it. Not sure who decided I said it's the glue .... though it certainly was the glued areas.

Maybe that's the trick.. i didn't ask for that

Did they get the 'issues' under control? I like the look of W/C leathers, but I need a holster to firm up in the end!

Sad, isn't it.. when people think 'handmade' should be identified by flaws ... Not their fault, entirely. They've had YEARS of people "excusing" flaws by saying it's hand made!