JLSleather

It actually sounds like (and looks from teh vid) either the dogs are riding too high, or the pressure is cranked too low. It's only hitting in that spot, like eccentric circles ...

Red -- The "named" clicker press is generally powered, some pneumatic and some hydraulic, has a platen intended and built for larger work area. The "shop" press - what we call that anyway - is generally hydraulic [because it's] intended to press considerable force very slowly.Bearings, bushings, piston sleeves, where the 'fit' is often even money or even interference fit. As you see from lookin' around LW, the shop press can be adapted to do the work of the [so-called] clicker, generally for considerably less money. Production boys be silly not to go with the clicker for the speed, but for 1-of or even 20-of, the cheaper route might be fine.

Two other things you might check ... the darker threads may at times tend to be a bit stiff (due to the dye), which can affect 'stuff'. I've had black spools that I set off to use for hand stitching cuz it SURE wadn't goin thru the machine (though white, red, and brown worked just fine at the same settings). Also, the TWIST. Went through that recently with some dark brown #138 thread. It was the right DIRECTION of twist, but didn't want to uncoil smoothly. Finally "figured it out" by cutting about 5 yards off the spool, pulling the 'coil' out of it, re-insert, and then it worked fine (coming off the SAME spool without changing anything else). Yeah, I know -- not that helpful, right? Sometimes it really is that little simple detail...

exactly my point. If you're cutting handbags, or holsters, then a long straight cut may actually be WASTING leather.

Might try it on scrap first (instead of turning a project INTO scrap - which I've already done for you!). A larger needle may help, but I think the 22/#138 combo you're using should be fine. More likely you have a piece of material with inconsistent firmness.

I don't know what "accurate" would be - that would depend on what you're using the leather for. A long straight cut is nice for belts, not so much for round-bottom handbags. What changed? I mean, if shoulders were working for you, why stop buying shoulders?

Ooops.. that got away from me -- didn't see tha question. That's lined with S-T Leather's "billfold sides" in brown. I used to buy that stuff for - well - billfolds. But this side was a bit heavier than usual, so .... it got stuck to this. Bag outside is 5/6 oz HO, and the strap is the same 5/6 lined with a 2/3 and stitched.

Sounds like you know what you want.. should be easy enough to make your own template. Posterboard works well for low-production runs (less than 1/day). Then, you're only talking about taking the belt down 1/8" per side, so you could make this as gradual or as steep as you like.

Click yer name, upper right, 'n' click "my content"...

We aint got no pictures, so toughta tell. The oil dyes will buff up to a pretty good shine all alone, so very possibly that super sheen crap?

Few things I mighta done a bit different, I would have either stitched across the top, or not put the groove there at all - same on the belt slots. Still it looks nice. interesting to see another pic of it now that it's 4 1/2 years old

The slightly revised version is available here. Still the same from this front view... Can be printed on home 8.5" x 11" paper, but on two sheets which can be easily aligned.

Colt Commander 1911 Pattern Too easy anyway. My kindergarten teacher would be proud

http://www.etsy.com/listing/199416442/glock-19-23-32-avenger-askins-style

Well, I do it, but I'm not lovin' it These days, I remind people how it's cheaper to have it stitched! This one was like 11 x 14", and by the time it was half laced ...

.44 Mag covers a good bit of ground... S/W 29 / 629 (half a dozen styles) Colt Anaconda Ruger Blackhawk (and Redhawk)

Because it CAN do 3 layers of 8 ounce does not mean it SHOULD do that That machine, that's absolutely the upper limit - and best to run about 60% of max capacity where you can help it. And you're right.. the 277 spool is best set off to the side fer hand stitchin'

What gun does that suit? I'm wondering about the placement of the snap on your safety strap.. looks like it might go ta banging the cylinder takin the gun inan out (?). Oh, did you punch lacin' holes from the back side? Looks like maybe yer punch was blowin' out a bit.

Might just be the size of the photos. Are those 11" pads? Oh, not meant to insult,but with the #138 thread, I assume Bob also recommended a larger needle?

What's the thread? Can you get away with one size heavier in that machine? Like a #92? Or a 138 if you dont want to buy every size of thread. I know it sounds like I'm just bein' an a**, but if your work didn't look worth commenting, then I wouldn't. I think you could really accent those size pads with one size bigger thread, and maybe one size bigger stitch length. Not to be taken wrong, for a guy who just got the machine, I think you did quite well. Besides, I like to see the youngsters jump in -- only way ta learn!

It is 'serviceable' and solid. Holds a gun jus' fine and hangs pretty well. Alterations - which I still haven't got around to putting in - would include showing a bit more trigger area (as a rule, I like them exposed or not, this landed kinda in the middle) and dropping the whole rig just a bit on the belt (slightly lower riding). 'Preciate yer comments

If you're gluing layers and THEN cutting, keep in mind that the pressure goes up accordingly (the thickness cut is part of the equation, so thicker = more tonnage). I never glue and then form.. wrinkles suck

I cant see any issue with 20 ton.. in fact I'm sure 12 ton would do er. ROUGH math, the pressure for BLANKING a holster is about 12 ton. But this is figuring a blank that is 24" long and 12" wide, which you'd think would be enough, and that's in 8 ounce leather. BUT, you aren't blanking, you're SLICING, which reduces pressure by about 6x, if the die is sharp. Seriously, only way you'd ever deflect that sucka is to bottom out the die and continue pressing. Well, the die not sitting straight, but i'm assuming you'd check that.

Steel plate top and bottom of what? Clicker press? Shop press? 1/2" steel plate isn't going to be bothered by cutting leather. The shear strength of leather is so low it takes.. well..you've put holes in it with a little hand punch, right? It your plates are flat, and you dont bottom out the machine (like dive in the shallow end) it's fine. I'm cheap, so I would have to need quite a few of the same thing to justify a die, but if they're helpful...

Yep, that's the one - thanks!