JLSleather

You're referring to the suede? Since you're sewing to quite thin fabric, likely not the tension (the knot can't be off by THAT much). I would try laying your project on a flat, hard surface, and tapping the stitching with a mallet or smooth face hammer. Might just relax into place. You don't have to BEAT it, just tap down the line..you'll quickly see what I mean, and it won't damage anything.

Really? You got useful info from those videos? For a different machine, even. Hmmm.. When I thought about a new machine, EVERYBODY sent me to those videos. When I bought that same machine, people sent me to it AGAIN. Not sure if they even know why. It's good to know where to put the oil, and that guy did a good job of showing exactly the way to thread the thing. And someone who didn't already know that, I could see that bit about not skipping stitches in the turn could be very helpful (though, maybe not 1/2 hour of it). Is there something I missed in there? I'm not being a wise-ass, but if there was more to it I didn't catch it. BUT.... to your original question.... With a skipped stitch, a fella "could" back the thread out a inch or two, then use that hanging end to backstitch. Then just pull some thread off the spool and stitch in where the empty holes are (which I'm purdy sure is why Red asks if its structural stitchin'). My preference, on the rare times this happens, is to simply cut the stitching for the entire project, stick it back in the machine, and track the same holes. As long as you haven't moved the stitch length, this should be simple. Oh, one note here: keep an eye on the knot position when you start, to make sure the tension isn't different due to the fact there's already a hole. Now, did you stitch the Glock holster yet?

Just saw this last post. I thought i remembered seeing some in Baird's book, but I haven't seen that one for a couple of years. THANKS.

If the bags are the same style, then it's not a "calculation" problem. More likely, you have .. measured from the inside of the square, but read the outside scale, or ; misaligned the edge a bit, so that it 'takes the long way' and requires a bit more material, or; read the tape wrong (you meant 1/2" under 35, but marked 1/2" OVER 35. These of course are off the wall guesses from clear in left field, cuz we all know I would NEVER make a mistake like these

I have a cobra 4, but I don't thik they are NEARLY as wonderful as you hear about around here. But then, lots of people here think that SLC has good leather and Iraq has weapons of mass destruction Not makin money, really -- basically losing $5 on everything I touch

Stitching makes a tear in the leather. Put enough small tears, close enough together, and you have a slice. So, there's some debate about the number of times you can do this without a problem. Simple terms, larger needle makes a larger slice, so the same spacing causes a tear sooner due to the larger diameter of the needle. 10 per inch with a 16 needle is fine. 10 per inch with a 25 needle doesn't leave much material left between the "stitches" (filling the hole with thread doesn't equal the same thing). A word about the machine suppliers around here. They are exactly that.. SUPPLIERS. They do not make the machines, and know enough about the machines to SELL them. What is the BRAND of your machine? Who is the MANUFACTURER?

CV.. I like a 24 needle, personally. And if you're stitching a couple layers of 8 oz, I wouldn't go much tighter than 6/inch -- much beyond that and you're weakening the seam, not strengthening it.

Nope. Just downloaded both - don't think that's it. Guess I'll use those others somewhere, no foul. Anybody else?

I don't think that's quite it. 'Preciate the effort, tho!

Awesome! If you could let me know which one, I'll just go download it. I downloaded "Lucky 7" book today only to find out that's not it

Seriously? NOBODY remembers seeing those wallets with the carved veg-tan pockets?

That's different... never seen that clasp used quite like that before.

Has to be an old one -- you just don't see those carved and filigreed inside pockets any more!

Anybody remember this one? Floral carved panels, name banner, carved inside pockets. Seems like it was one of the OLD books, maybe. Wife is re-making this for someone. Tell me where to find it, and get a free holster pattern download

Never used the Juki, but the Consew is actually a pretty decent machine. It WILL sew 10 oz of leather with no issues, with thread from 42 to 207 (I mostly run 138 thru mine). Having said that, there is something to be said for seeing the machine work. You get the advantage of seeing it do what you need it to, plus it's right there, so you don't spend money on shipping. Bottom line, I'd probably try out the machine 'at hand', knowing that if you don't like the way it functions you can always order teh consew. Someone had a problem with letting you try the machine, that would be a BIG red flag for me.

By way of update, I did receive the leather from RJF back then, and I will not be placing another order. The leather I received was spongey, loose-grained, heavily wrinkled, and had a LOT of stretch.

Best #1 step for 'advertising', check what you can do with that web site. First page takes WAY too long to load - a lot of people won't wait on it .. off to something else. I didn't check the fakebook thing because, well, because I wouldn't. ...

That is correct. The 17 is not quite 1/2" longer than the 19. The 19 is also shorter in the grip, but that likely has no bearing on your holster. You could, for example, make a holster that fits the 19, with the muzzle set back about 1/4" inside the end. You could then take out the 19, put in the 17, and it will fit the SAME way, but will protrude a bit less than 1/4". SAME fit. OH - Jason threw a lot of info in a short time, so I'll just add that (in case you OR the next guy didn't know) the XD's are Springfield and the M&P's are Smith/Wesson. Good to get all the information you can from the customer. I can't count the number of times I've talked to "holster makers" who want to make a rig for their '1911'. That covers 50 different models, so a holster "for a 1911" means basically nuthin'. It's like going to the parts store and asking for a new starter for your Chevy - doesn't mean much to them, either.

Yes. The exterior dimensions are the same. These are different caliber (9mm, .40, and .357 in order) so they have different LOADED weight (and mag capacity) but the holster is the same. Incidentally, the Glock 17, 22, and 31 will snap into that same holster. On these models, the barrel end is about 1/2" longer (well, actually closer to 15/32"), and the butt end is a bit different, but between is the SAME. In other words, if you had a holster that fit the glock 19 flush with the end of the barrel, then teh 17 would have the same fit, but protrude a little less than half an inch out the end (which in some cases is likely just fine).

This was funny.. probably because it's accurate Many of these things are simply personal preference. Here's my 'take', for what it's worth... I don't use RJF leather (once, but never again). Enough said. The thread you selected is one notch heavier than I like. As a rule, for a holster / belt combo, why not let the thread match on both. And, I don't use 7 holes (a fella needing that much adjustment must have medical issues - and if you did use it all the resulting 'tag end' would look ridiculous). STILL, you got 13 oz of leather there, which - if good leather is used - is certainly heavy enough. Overall, you have a decent looking belt there. I don't have anything in that color for comparison - sometimes it's nice to see what others have done, and a guy can decide if he likes the look without investing the time and money to find he didn't prefer that

Red -- Tandy now selling by the PIECE, not by the foot. The RM sides are generally 25 feet, +- 2, making it about $8/ft with the 'elite' pricing ($207/side). HO will depend on where you get it. SLC is $9.49/ft for [what they call] "B" grade. Goliger charging $9.12/ft, but it's "A" grade HO. And you can call the tannery, if you have the room to store 20 sides, and get it for a bit under $8/ft.

I think that's purdy standard for revolvers with substantial barrel length. Lower the loop, ya got a rig ridin too high. What you have there keeps the grip about belt height. You could angle it a bit, dependin' on customer comfort, but otherwise you got it.

i kaint even decide on the best guitar player for pink floyd!

Yeah SLC.. The leather isn't better than anywhere else, but they DO cut it (at a cost). I haven't used the calf, but i see they do also sell 2/3 oz veg that comeis in 9-10 foot skins (thus, you skip the cutting fee).

This should put you close. Thanks, Bob. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html