JLSleather

Needle and thread size aren't really determined by leather thickness, so much as the intended use of the project. I've sewn 4 oz (2 layers 2 oz) with a 16 needle, 42 thread, at about 9 stitches per inch. 8 oz (2 x 2oz + 4oz) with 18 neeele, 69 thread 6-7 spi 8 oz (2x2ox + 4oz) same 22 needle 138 thread 6 spi 12 oz (8 oz + 4 oz veg) 22 needle 138 6 12 oz (8 +4 as above) 23 207 6 12 oz (8 + 4 as above) 24 277 6 I could go on, but you get the idea. Some of the selection of thread / needle size is just cosmetic - - different look. Your two layers of 4 oz could be stitched with 69 or with 346, and anywhere between, depending on what you want to do. And two layers of 10 oz is not so very much, and wouldn't require a "heavy" machine. It sounds like you need a "medium" range machine. As a rule with equipment, I like to cap the projects at about 60% of the machine capacity. If you need to sew 1/4" regularly, get a machine that will stitch 3/8" (without struggling). Personal opinion, i think the "heavy" machines you see around this site "could" do 6 oz leather with 138 thread. To get down lower than that would require considerations ... OH, and keep in mind that the distance from edges and the number of stitches per inch must be considered. Larger thread requires a larger needle, and a larger needle requires a longer stitch length to avoid weakening the leather with holes too close together.

So, you use a brush, to brush something on the leather - but not on the background and not in these "cuts'. Something not sinking i here - Couldn't you do the same thing with the dye?

I don't buy sides for belts. The length just isn't very effective, unless you also make something that lets you use shorter pieces.. holsters, collars, etc. At somewhere between 6 - 7 feet long, they way long for one belt and too short for two. Still, nice to make the belt and holster from the same hide, so they match. IDEALLY, bends would be the best leather (all else equal). But many belts have been made just fine from double shoulders. To get to the point of your question... Bend might run in the 11-12 foot range, and cut about 15-18 belts (1.5"). Figure the bend from a good size side is about 25-27" wide Dbl SHoulder might run anywhere 10-15 feet. Find one a good 55-60" wide, good fer belts. Good size one might then be 24-34" across (shoulder to neck). Trim teh very bottom edge to straighten, and trim teh rough of the neck off, and a guy git maybe 15-18 belts (1.5" wide). Keep in mind with shoulders, the ends might be a bit thinner and less firm, but if you stay on the 60"-ish side you can trim that mostly. Decent leather gonna run recently $9-10 per foot, so you lookin at (ballpark, dependin on size and shape of hides) prolly $125 for double shoulders .......... figger 16 straps ..........so $8 ish per $150 for bends (they'll charge more per foot) .... 16 straps .........$9.25 ish per $200 for a side ............... 16 straps ..............$12 ish per .......... but youll have the belly and a single shoulder for whatever else you make... This is the safe side. With a side, you might get 20 straps, or if you need 30-32" belts, you might get more out of one side.

Well, i gotta ask. How do you plan to get the "resist" on there?

Well, this is not encouraging. I've been thinking the same thing lately -- about the HO I've been seeing. There's some good leather, but the waste factor is WAY too high. Some of the HO sides I've seen lately have had rough flesh sides, "spongey" shoulders, very loose grain toward the belly (but not actually the belly, which is largely useless), and even some unexplained white "marks" on the top - some of which took dye and some didn't. And these were all "A" and "B" hides. So, I've been considering going back to using W/C again, but perhaps not now!

Hardly quite done, but perhaps they sumthin helful init

We just returned two 8/9 backs of HO to springfield -- WAY too much waste factor. I understand that "B" grade isn't flawless (that's why it's "B") but that was ridiculous. You'd be lucky if you could use HALF of that leather. The ONLY thing good about that whole deal was they accepted it back without issue. 'Course, that means UPS got paid twice, but SCL made nothing and we don't have 8/9 oz.

A little perspective... Leather going up by 80¢ / ft means that your standard size holster has an increased cost of $1 (assuming a 15-20% waste factor), a 2-layer belt goes up $1.50, etc.

Not sure what happened to the picture of the back of this one. It's a Ruger, but not the right one

Someone always going on about holster patterns. But, the 'stories" and "facts" run as wide a range as the "right" way to measure a belt. I personally don't see where the difficulty lies, except perhaps the hype created by 'professionals" trying to convince you they're doing something you can't. Seriously, some of these people will have you standing on the left foot facing northwest in the morning arguing about nylon vs poly. Here's the short version -- to fit snugly and prevent weapon movement, the inside of the leather would be the same size as the outside of the gun. That sounds too simple, because it IS. Amazing how many people miss that. Seriously, anyone who's ever used a real or dummy gun to form a holster SHOULD have realized that. Leather has some natural "forgiveness" built in, so it's not necessary to measure every millimeter. Some of the larger Glocks are good for examples -- since they are basically a rectangle "'this much by this much". With a revolver, it's the same idea, but instead of a flat surface you have a radius (actually, it's called cylinder because it's a cylindrical). Now, just a bit of "tech" stuff, which is in it's own paragraph so people can bypass it if they like "Theoretically", the width of the leather for the Glock (let's use a model 19 jus for example, those seem popular these days) would be 5.1" (like a rectangle roughly 1.5" x 1.050"). In the same way, lets say that the cylinder on the Ruger is Ø 1.56" (which is close depending on machine tolerances). This makes the measurement around 4.90". Where things sometimes get screwed up, I think, is that some forget that this is the measurement on the INSIDE of the holster. This ignores even MORE technical stuff that would be considered for higher production -- like fold lines and bend radii. For those who can't see why that matters, I don't think I can help you. Once you have this "wrap", then belt slots / loops / sweat shields / straps / etc. can largely be whatever size and location you like (within reason). And, structurally there is no benefit gained or lost by how sharp the stitch line turns. From a maker standpoint, it's a tad quicker to run a small curve simply because you avoid the necessity of exact stitch placement (which usually means slowing down a bit). I have a sharp turn at the tip of ALL of my belts -- never had one break there Now then .... Since it seems to be some type of closely guarded secret - here's yet another tip. Everybody loves to go on about how the Glock 17 and the model 22 can be made with the same dummy. Someone will chime in a second later to say thats also good for the model 31. Fair enough. What some don't say (some don't know, others don't want to say) is that the Glock models 19, 23, and 32 are EXACTLY the same, with the exception of being about 1/2" shorter (well, officially like 16 mm). All the difference is is the muzzle end (triigger area and slide no different), so that same glock 17 mold can be used to make holsters for all 6 pistols Oh, wait... the compact models 26, 27, 33 are ALSO the same 'around' dimensions, everywhere except the muzzle end. Those subcompacts don't have 'rails', and the base is just a tad wider - I'm talking like .03". Just the frame under the slide -- the slide itself is not different, except shorter (by about 5/8"). So now, we have a pattern that can be used for NINE pistols, simply by cutting the end longer or shorter. Due to that extra bit of 'beef' on the subcompact muzzle end, once formed it would be a tad loose at teh bottom on the other models. Basically, I mean you could get the models 22 holster to form to the 27, though a bit of stretch would make it not so great fit on teh 22 any more. BUT, if you had a 22 pattern, made the holster, and then formed it with the 27, you'd be fine -- this is my point.

That actually doesn't look that far off. The circles would be a combination of foot pressure and "smooshy" leather (probably not possible to entirely eliminate this effect). Beyond that, the holes look quite large for the thread... try larger thread or smaller needle.

Nope. You've made 'avenger' holsters before - this one not so very different. A little less 'square' than a rig for a pistol, but ....

I wouldn't sell "out of " any store that wasn't mine. Between the shipping companies, the tax guys (plural), and the welfare recipients, there are more than enough people getting a 'cut' already.

Looks like maybe a little 'fuzzy' at the top (or just the pic?), but the color looks pretty good, stitches are consistent, slots aren't "wollered out' to no end (see a lot of that lately). Overall, I like it (though, I personally WOULD cut the bottom right off there )

For what it's worth, these are currently no up to about $20 each. Might be a chance for somebody to pick a REAL mean deal. I think i have most of these, or I'd buy it myself. http://www.ebay.com/itm/21-Blue-Guns-Great-for-Holster-Making-Glock-S-W-SIG-Springfield-Ruger-/141521679987?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20f3597673

You made the pattern for the 1911? You've made holsters for revolvers? Okay, now just put the two together You'll find that the "center line" on your 'avenger' revolver holster is so close to the front stitch line on a pancake that it's virtually the same thing. With the python, you have one of the few revolvers that this might vary a bit. But this is due to the "rib" down the barrel more than the cylinder. How long is the barrel on the Colt? How high will it ride? And how wide the belt it fits? Now that you've brought this up, I think I'll do one of these...

Not sure I understood your last post, but if you just want 'general' info and instruction - particularly for revolver holsters - you can download one of the classics from the library.. should show you all you need to know to get started https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1119-how-to-make-holsters-by-al-stohlman.aspx

You're probably going to need more information. The S/W 38 special was made in frame sizes M, I, J, K, L, and N and at least two others that I am aware of but not familiar with. Most of what we see these days are "K" or "L" frame models, but if you had a model number that would go a LONG way in narrowing it down. Are you looking for the model 10, 65, 586 ... ?

I have that one Troy That's the new replacement, close as I could see the one she had. Basically, the name was about all that was recognizable any more on the old one. Personally, I don't care for that stamped look, but that's what they had and what they wanted to replace with.

Well, don't know if it's THE one or not, but stick in something close-ish

There was a 'doodle page' looked JUST like this,.. where was that.. something from like 1986? Maybe '87... Can't read the publish date, maybe it's on the other side? https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-974-shade-dyeing-with-spectra-shade-dyes-by-glenda-karrenbrock-tony-laier-series-7d-page-8.aspx

Chubby girl makes these -- this one in 1.5 oz kidskin. One layer, except where the id window is on top, and where it's folded (folded edge is middle of wallet). Every pocket stitched in. Looks great, and keeps a wallet thin. Still, takes a LONG time, requires a pretty small needle (this one in a machine with a #16 needle and 8 spi). Unless you are making ONE every so often, probably cost effective to just call the gals at SLC and order the chaylor interior (stick it and go).

HO is going up a bit. 50¢ - ish.