JLSleather

Feelin' a bit neglected here ... SO many etsy shops by LW folks! So, now there's one fer me. I haven't had an 'actual' web site in years, though I'm told that's being re-done (the old one would not work today anyway). BUT, I hate to have etsy shoppers get the wrong idea about how leather should look. This should be enough to show the real 'web' guys what I want, too. Check it out at jlsleather.etsy.com

How thick is that elephant? Did you glue it to something else?

How thick is the cow? Above about 6 oz leather, I don't stick it to anything to tool - isn't necessary. But then, my leather has never been in the fridge, far as I can remember Minus the fancy speeches, leather should be cased if you're embossing up a good distance. For "flat" articles (tooled in only) you can wet and go. This simple design was done the other day in a few hours.... from cutting the strip off the hide to setting aside to dry (paint 'n' stitchin' extra)...

Seriously.. there's a knife sharpening CLASS? As a used-to-be toolmaker, I've sharpened a LOT of stuff, using things from sandpaper to surface grinders. But when it comes to leather, I need a blade that cuts smoothly without drag. But I can do that for what... $3 (ish)? When they're dull, I pitch 'em and replace 'em. I think I've sharpened enough My interest is the look and usefulness of the leather when I'm done carving. Not what name is on the side of the knife. Or the mallet. Or whatever. Guy tells that story... Fella is blowing insulation in the walls of his house, decides he needs a drill. Go to the store, and the guy tells him this drill is $19. Next one is layin' there, and the guy tells him this one is variable speed, and it's $29. A third model is variable speed AND reversible, and its $49. One has all that, and hammer drill function, and it's $129. So, the question was... which one does he need? Most people when asked that question say "the cheap drill". But what he actually needs is holes in the wall - which he could do with a hammer.

Neat idea -- and very nicely done. I don't speak a bit of Chinese, but was able to follow your instruction easily. NICE!

We didn't hear how that came out. I KNOW you have a G19 pattern You "could" use the G19 pattern to make a holster for the 27 with little modification, some of which was mentioned before. Just don't expect holsters with the 27 pattern to fit the 19 once it's formed with the 27 "dummy"!

For years, folks around leather wurkin' campfires have been goin' on about the need for a saddle stitch. Not to take anything from that -- it works great, simple to learn, and looks nice. 50 years (ish) ago, there was a book published about hand sewing leather. That book said that with a lockstitch, when the thread breaks the seam can unravel. And people have been parroting that ever since (you know the routine - having no knowledge won't keep people from talking). But the actual strength is in the leather and the thread. And a guy with an awl and harness needles can botch a stitch job as well as the guy with a machine Stab an awl at the wrong angle, or too close together, ... not good. You'll find there's a vast range of threads and needles, many of them will work with that machine. Not to bore you to no end, but keep in mind that a 24 needle (for example) that is not "A" needle .. that's a size, but you can get size 24 needles for your machine that result in a very different stitch. One buries deeper than the next. One leaves a very straight stitch line, where the next one gives an angled/offset stitch, etc. This could go on.. but seriously, machines stitch parachute harness, just for an idea of strength. But, test it yourself. Take two narrow strips. Leave a couple inches at the end NOT stitched, to get a grip on. Stitch the edges like a belt with your machine. Trim the end threads out of your way. Now --- grab those ends you left for grip, and pull it apart... Better yet. Take that same piece, with the edges stitched, and CUT the thread somewhere in the middle of the seam. Not the leather, just cut the thread. Now, pull or tug or twist the project, and let us know what you had to do to get that seam to start coming out ...

If you already have a drill press and a circle cutter, yes - you can use that. I wouldn't use a spade bit, but a hole cutter would be fine (moderately fine tooth and sharp)

Oh, and then there's Kevlar thread, which is exactly what you think it is. Zero stretch and a breaking strength about 2 1/2 times that of nylon or poly thread (for same diameter). Much more costly, and largely prohibitive for leather craft. If, on the other hand, you are sewing parachute harness ...

Note to self: The girl at W/C thinks size matters.

That tooling looks purdy consistent, and the stitchin' is nice too!

I haven't ordered W/C for quite a while. I thought about it a while back -- probably same reason as you -- some of the HO I've seen lately has been LESS THAN STELLAR quality. But, the W/C web site been non-functioning for a good while now, and I couldn't find the number. Oh, crap.. now that i think about it,. probly on the back of that sample thing that still hanging in the shop ...

Yikes. An 19 minute "airbrush" video, where the airbrush doesn't actually come out until about 14 minute mark? Maybe I clicked the wrong link ..

My fault, it seems. I told them they could have put those on Ebay and got a quick $600-$1000 for them. His wife said 'well you shoulda told us'. My opiinion, that would be tough to do since i didn't know they had them They're melted down somewhere by now ...

Yep, the "back when" ones was the good in 'em. We had some friends over a couple weeks ago. They saw the tools and said they got some from an estate auction last year... while going through a bunch of stuff they bought they found a couple hundred of "those sliver or chrome things like you got". But, they didnt know I use those, or anybody else who does, so they got thrown away with some other things they don't have use for! Well,, it happens I suppose ...

I don't put leather in plastic sealed bags.

I've done 277/277 and I've done 277/207. Either works fine. Use a 24 or 25 needle, and it will work. Has nothing to do with presser foot.

Mike gave you some good advice. Since you have the issue with different spools, it's likely NOT the thread (though not a guarantee there yet). So, if not the thread, change the needle. If not the needle, check the hook for 'boogers' (or cleanliness - sometimes just a build up of "fluff' from the thread). One more issue, a #18 needle might be pushing it with 92 thread (though certainly fine for the 69 thread). I have a short ( a few seconds ) video showing the hook / bobbin area on a cobra. Reason I mention it here, it shows (slowly) the action in there. You can see, then, that the top (needle) thread drops below (around) the hook to form the stitch. As Mike says, a 'booger' on the hook assembly can nick the thread -- and then when the take-up lever pulls it back up it APPEARS that the damage is being done at the needle (which, it isn't always). Long-winded, maybe I should just show the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7MVSikaYEk

Yeah, well.... short version...Jeff has some blue guns a bit discounted from price of new. If you're making holsters for the 27, I'd suggest taking advantage of the discounted 27 if he still has one.

Those models are NOT the same. If you're making 'sack' holsters (or whatever they call that these days, where the leather folds around, and remains loose) they are close enough to the same circumference. If you are making formed holsters that are at all close, the two are NOT interchangeable. You could get the 27 to go in a holster made for the 17, but before long it wouldn't fit the 17 any more.

Is that the bushing you said it didn't have? Wondering from what you said, coupled with what Wiz said, if a fella couldn't rotate that shaft a half turn (since so much is loose already) and eliminate the possibility of a bent shaft. Much more likely I would think that a worn bushing is causing it to 'one -side', particularly since it rotates the roller into the casting

What size thread are you using? LOTS of people set these machines for ONE type of stitch in ONE type of material - usually with the same needle/thread combination. The rest of us may need to make an adjustment occasionally it's not difficult. The picture shows the bobbin IN the machine, though you may find it easier to adjust by tilting it out, or even removing it. Each his own. I don't use it for thread under 207, though I think you could get away with using 138. Loosen the clamp screw, make your adjustment (clockwise is tighter), and then snug the clamp screw back down.

Google tube has some REAL crap -- like most places these days I suspect But, just one example I would personally not avoid (which is not the same as recommending, it's just not NOT recommending) would be to search for "leather tooling" and maybe not avoid videos by Bruce Cheaney.

Shucks, Ma'am Personally, I sometimes buy on Ebay. There's actually a pretty good selection of the older ones. This is not 'popular', and I would anticipate a slough of fellers gonna tell ya somethin' else. Only downfall really, is you have to find what you need, though you can do that in some of the Ebay stores. As I mentioned, I wouldn't go purchase the ones currently available from Tandy. Convenience which results in something other than what you need is not convenience at all. If it wasn't fer cute girls workin' there, I probably wouldn't go to Tandy at all You don't need the long speech about "craftool vs craftool usa vs blahblahblah (tho you could find it here). The Ebay listings generally show a picture of the impression made by the tool. Oh, and what you call 'flat faced' bevelers are (at least with Craftool brand) called "smooth" bevelers. You might prefer the "checked" or "checkered" bevelers.